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2230 recap

...I could be wrong here but I believe I may have the wrong transistors for the 1815’s. The package has Part # 512-KSC1815YTA but the marking on the transistors themselves don’t match with the Datasheet on the Mouser site for the 1815’s. The actual marking on the Transistor is as follows…….BC547 B-F38 . From what I see it doesn’t match with the data sheet for the actual 1815...

You were shipped the incorrect transistors. Although the BC547 transistors are NPN types like the KSC1815, they have a different lead configuration (i.e., CBE) rather than the common Japanese basing of ECB. Contact Mouser and they should send you the correct item you ordered.
 
Ain't that the truth. I just called Mouser and I should have the 4 correct ones by tomorrow. Great service. At least now I can move on to replace the large Caps. ( all that's really left to do aside from lights and new Vellum etc ) Not knowing what the issue was left me at a dead stop!
 
We learn more from the things that go wrong than we do from the things that go right. :)
QFT for sure! I knew a VERY smart engineering tech and when he was complimented on something he would say, "I'm not smart, I just remember more stuff than I forget!"
 
Got the new 1815 transistors in today from Mouser and just finished installing all the new ones plus the new 992's that I had removed on the 400 board ( so all new ) and everything seems to be working just fine now. So glad I can put that headache behind me and move on toward the finish line. Filter caps here I come. Any advise on these?
 
Got the new 1815 transistors in today from Mouser and just finished installing all the new ones plus the new 992's that I had removed on the 400 board ( so all new ) and everything seems to be working just fine now. So glad I can put that headache behind me and move on toward the finish line. Filter caps here I come. Any advise on these?
Don't bother trying to unsolder all of the red and white wires soldered to the cap lugs. They are difficult to remove. Just make note of what goes where and clip them off at the lugs. Strip off 3/8" of insulation and solder to the new caps. This will save a lot of time and tedious unsoldering.
 
Awesome thanks. Is it a good idea to solder those O ring connectors to the new leads on the new caps first so I have more meat to solder to. Those leads on the new caps are really tiny
 
Yes. I solder the ring terminals onto the snap-on lugs and then solder the wires to the ring terminals once the caps are in place.
 
Well I hit another wall. Soldered the Filter caps and now I only have full sound in the right channel. There is a little sound in the left channel but have to crank the volume almost to max to hear it. Checked to make sure all was connected and I don't see anything out of the ordinary.
 
Yea all was working fine before and the big caps were pretty straight forward. Will get some picts soon and post. Must be something small that I'm missing. Only did one at a time. Only thing I can think of that was different was the large cap has a negative lead and I believe three other leads. I assume the one 180 degrees was positive although if it wasn't I would think I'd have bigger issues than the current one???
 
Yes, positive is 180 from the negative. I'm guessing polarity is right, or I hear you get an explosion. :eek: Bound to be something simple. You know, I just had a wire I didn't get soldered to a filter cap, and couldn't see the wire without really digging. Pics might help.
 
Picts from top and bottom. Looking at the Picts I already see that the orange wire needs more cleaning up and solder. Insulation melted some. Couldn't see it when soldering from the top but at any rate it is solid. Will have to go back at it tomorrow
 

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I would put flux paste on each terminal and reflow the solder. When multiple wires converge on a terminal, there is a chance one of them doesn't make good contact. That mass of white wires looks suspect to me. After the solder sets, grab each ring terminal with something like a hemostat and give it a slight torque. I have had a ring terminal lose it's solder joint to the cap terminal while soldering a mass of wires to it. Everything looked good, but when I torqued it a little, it moved.
 
Well not sure what happened. Got up this morning and fluxed and reflowed still no sound in left channel. Checked the 400 board ( last board worked on ) screws holding it were a little loose. Decided to check behind the board but nothing obvious so I clipped a few of the leads closer to the solder ( barely anything sticking up but cleaned it up anyway) but it all back and tightened securely. Powered up and have sound in both channels again so not too sure what the issue was. Maybe the board being a little loose??? I'm stumped but bottom line is its working well but I would still like to know what the problem was. Maybe it's just being a rookie. Hmmmm?
 
Well, glad it's working. It's definitely nice to actually see what the problem was, but you take what you can get.
 
Not knowing what the issue was just leaves me wondering if it will re occur again when least expected. I'm hoping that was just something as simple as a temporary bad ground or something of that nature.
 
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