Acoustic Research AR-6, AR6, AR 6 Tweeter!
- Thread starter darko
- Start date
onplane
What! No Wake???
darko, I just saw the xover diagram for the European AR-6.
If you still think the tweeters are NOT producing enough sound when the switch is set to increase, why don't you try a simple by-pass? Just solder a wire to the 10 mfd cap and solder the other end to the green wire where it terminates on the switch.
If you get more sound with this "by-pass", then you know you need to clean or buy a new switch. The by-pass is electrically the same as setting the switch to increase, EXCEPT for corrosion that may exist inside the switch.
Yes, darko, the gray foam is very important. It "seals" the speaker and prevents air moving freely.
To test, gently place your fingers on the cone and push down slowly until the woofer will extend no more. Then let go!
If the woofer returns very fast ... you have air leaks. If it takes a second or more, everything is fine.
Hope this helps ...
Regards,
Jerry
If you still think the tweeters are NOT producing enough sound when the switch is set to increase, why don't you try a simple by-pass? Just solder a wire to the 10 mfd cap and solder the other end to the green wire where it terminates on the switch.
If you get more sound with this "by-pass", then you know you need to clean or buy a new switch. The by-pass is electrically the same as setting the switch to increase, EXCEPT for corrosion that may exist inside the switch.
Yes, darko, the gray foam is very important. It "seals" the speaker and prevents air moving freely.
To test, gently place your fingers on the cone and push down slowly until the woofer will extend no more. Then let go!
If the woofer returns very fast ... you have air leaks. If it takes a second or more, everything is fine.
Hope this helps ...
Regards,
Jerry
darko
... and never give up!
Bridging the Tweeter Switch -> none accoustical Differense
Hi Jerry,
I Hope You are not at Home and enjoy in the Weekend,
somewhere Outside at the Sun and fresh Air
Yes, I have soldered a Bypass. It was easy, like You tell.
One Thing is surprising : The Glue, that mostly cover all the Switch and Connectors, was Heat-Melting Material. Like Bee-Wax !
Have unmelted the both Connectors and solder a good Connection between.
So the Switch is in the "INCREASE" Position - fixed!
It seems, to have not more, or less Highs, I would say - same Results.
That means, the Switch was in good Shape. Mostly none Corrosion.
I let them to be in this Solution/Function. It sounds good to me.
I have no interess, to decrease the Tweeter in his Full Function
Have listened to old 60s and 70s -> very presental with a good Image.
The Box is prettx good, tight -> Air-Closed. The Papercone move very slowly back, after pushing, gentle In.
Thank You to All Fellows,
who gives me the Feeling, I have here a good making Masterpiece
of Vintage Speakers -> Acoustic Research AR-6 !
Have a very good Week
and
let the Spring comes soon!
Darko
Hi Jerry,
I Hope You are not at Home and enjoy in the Weekend,
somewhere Outside at the Sun and fresh Air
Yes, I have soldered a Bypass. It was easy, like You tell.
One Thing is surprising : The Glue, that mostly cover all the Switch and Connectors, was Heat-Melting Material. Like Bee-Wax !
Have unmelted the both Connectors and solder a good Connection between.
So the Switch is in the "INCREASE" Position - fixed!
It seems, to have not more, or less Highs, I would say - same Results.
That means, the Switch was in good Shape. Mostly none Corrosion.
I let them to be in this Solution/Function. It sounds good to me.
I have no interess, to decrease the Tweeter in his Full Function
Have listened to old 60s and 70s -> very presental with a good Image.
The Box is prettx good, tight -> Air-Closed. The Papercone move very slowly back, after pushing, gentle In.
Thank You to All Fellows,
who gives me the Feeling, I have here a good making Masterpiece
of Vintage Speakers -> Acoustic Research AR-6 !
Have a very good Week
and
let the Spring comes soon!
Darko
onplane
What! No Wake???
darko said:Hi Jerry,
I Hope You are not at Home and enjoy in the Weekend,
somewhere Outside at the Sun and fresh Air
Darko
Darko, what sun?? It's snowing and very windy. In my backyard the snow pack is approx 70 cm high! I am definitely NOT going outside today unless I absolutely must.
darko said:So the Switch is in the "INCREASE" Position - fixed!
It seems, to have not more, or less Highs, I would say - same Results.
That means, the Switch was in good Shape. Mostly none Corrosion.
I let them to be in this Solution/Function. It sounds good to me.
I have no interess, to decrease the Tweeter in his Full Function
Have listened to old 60s and 70s -> very presental with a good Image.
Darko
Darko, if you still need more of the high frequencies, you'll just have to use the treble control on your amp. The tweeter in the AR-6 is a very, very good tweeter, but it can be "over powered" by the woofer.
AR speakers were designed to produce a flat frequency response on the vinyl records that were popular when the AR's were built. Unfortunately, the record companies all emphasized high frequencies back then, because the vast, vast majority of playback devices had serious deficiencies in reproducing high frequencies (ceramic cartridges, etc.).
Today with digital recording and playback (CD’s), that high frequency emphasis is no longer present. Usually, the increase or MAX position will solve the problem, but sometimes we still need a little boost in the highs in order to CLEARLY hear all of the instruments.
Regards,
Jerry
ozmoid
Lunatic Member
Darko, glad you've got the AR's sounding good! 
Jerry, you seem to be referring to RIAA equalization. It is a pre-emphasis of highs, and any decent phono stage in a vintage amp should be yielding a de-emphasis to the curve, yielding a more-or-less flat response. Using inputs other than the phono stage on your amp will not apply the RIAA correction curve to the signal, so CD players attached to the AUX input should be accurately reproduced. AR did not design speakers to correct the RIAA curve as you imply. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalizationonplane said:
onplane
What! No Wake???
ozmoid said:
Hi, ozmoid.
The emphasis in high frequencies has nothing to do with RIAA. The memo below, which dates back to 1968, shows the logic that AR used in recommending settings for the speaker controls.
Note that even in the max position, a treble boost is necessary to achieve a flat frequency response.
Regards,
Jerry
darko
... and never give up!
Hi Fellows,
This is a truly remarkable Info-Sheet!
3 Years after my Birth, they found it out ..)
Jerry, what Snow? Here was today a very sunny and warm Day ( in Zürich ).
I must say this: I wish we had Snow this Winter. Without Snow, its not Winter.
The Sounding of the AR6, becomes again a "tick" better in Highs.
I put them more upwards, in the same Position, my Ears are, while listening.
What a Improvement))
Thank You for All,
Darko
This is a truly remarkable Info-Sheet!
3 Years after my Birth, they found it out ..
)Jerry, what Snow? Here was today a very sunny and warm Day ( in Zürich ).
I must say this: I wish we had Snow this Winter. Without Snow, its not Winter.
The Sounding of the AR6, becomes again a "tick" better in Highs.
I put them more upwards, in the same Position, my Ears are, while listening.
What a Improvement
))Thank You for All,
Darko
onplane
What! No Wake???
darko said:Hi Fellows,
This is a truly remarkable Info-Sheet!
3 Years after my Birth, they found it out ..
Jerry, what Snow? Here was today a very sunny and warm Day ( in Zürich ).
I must say this: I wish we had Snow this Winter. Without Snow, its not Winter.
The Sounding of the AR6, becomes again a "tick" better in Highs.
I put them more upwards, in the same Position, my Ears are, while listening.
Darko, the last time we had this much snow in February was 29 years ago!
I understand what you did with your speakers and it will help. Moving speakers off the floor will decrease the deep-bass reinforcement and consequently, alter the balance in favor of the tweeter. AR's have such deep, distortion free bass that it's a shame to sacrifice ... just to bring the tweeter forward.
One "trick" that sometimes helps, darko, is to keep the speakers on the floor, but angle the speakers so that the tweeters point to your ears in your normal listening position. In other works, you put a book or something just under the front of the speaker causing it to tilt back and causing the tweeters' focal point to rise.
In addition, you can try "toeing in" the speakers, once again so that the tweeters point directly at you in your normal listening position.
Darko, the idea in all of this is to INCREASE the direct radiation of the tweeter WITHOUT having to sacrifice deep bass. This might not achieve enough, however, to bring the AR-6 in balance with modern media.
Regards,
Jerry
slipstream16
New Member
Which terminal is the negative, 1 or 2?
AR6 are different
My excellent AR6 drivers produce the darkest sound of all the speakers I have heard lately. They are excellent for listening to overly high end FM broadcasts, but not for listening to older vinyl recordings that already lack the high end. They have a good lower midrange, but even there they are a lot more mellow than, say, Dynaco A25 or the AR4x.
I like them for the vintage sound. All top of the line cabinet stereos built in the 60's sounded like these speakers still sound. Except these are still better sounding.
You cannot get high end brightness out of them, so don't look for it. The charm of these speakers is the mellow sound. I could repeat that again for emphasis but I already used the word twice. They are my FM radio speakers unless I need enough volume to run the AR2ax which sound in some respects similar at high volumes with certain input.
My excellent AR6 drivers produce the darkest sound of all the speakers I have heard lately. They are excellent for listening to overly high end FM broadcasts, but not for listening to older vinyl recordings that already lack the high end. They have a good lower midrange, but even there they are a lot more mellow than, say, Dynaco A25 or the AR4x.
I like them for the vintage sound. All top of the line cabinet stereos built in the 60's sounded like these speakers still sound. Except these are still better sounding.
You cannot get high end brightness out of them, so don't look for it. The charm of these speakers is the mellow sound. I could repeat that again for emphasis but I already used the word twice. They are my FM radio speakers unless I need enough volume to run the AR2ax which sound in some respects similar at high volumes with certain input.
michiganpat
Super Member
1 is negative, 2 (& 3) is positive on AR speakers.
I have some AR18's, which are the ADD sucessors to the 7's. the tweeter on these are one of my favorites, very open and airy, IMHO...the pics of the european 6 look like the tweet is very similar to my 18's, so I'm surprised they are being referred to as "dark"...are your tweeters functioning?
I have some AR18's, which are the ADD sucessors to the 7's. the tweeter on these are one of my favorites, very open and airy, IMHO...the pics of the european 6 look like the tweet is very similar to my 18's, so I'm surprised they are being referred to as "dark"...are your tweeters functioning?
gkimeng
Forum Mod, ClassicSpeakerPages.net
Classic-era ARs have a more pronounced HF slope than what most modern listeners are accustomed to. AR themselves boosted the HF output of their speakers starting with the ADD model line (which is what your 18s are) in the mid-70's in response to changing listener preferences. Setting the level switches of the later models to -3 approximates the sound of the classics at full, and -6 the sound of the classics at their "Normal" setting. Roy Allison, who designed the tweeters in the 6 and 18, included a similar rolloff setting in his own line of speakers and called it "concert slope."
AR18's and AR6's
My AR18's were a lot more like the TSW210's tweeter-wise. The Teledyne speakers are very soft punchy loud on the tweeters. The old American AR's were a different kettle of fish. The tweeters were soft and underpowered, or I should say less efficient. More emphasis on the big bass woofer.
My AR18's were a lot more like the TSW210's tweeter-wise. The Teledyne speakers are very soft punchy loud on the tweeters. The old American AR's were a different kettle of fish. The tweeters were soft and underpowered, or I should say less efficient. More emphasis on the big bass woofer.
PDAVID
New Member
There are no switches on AR-6. Your speakers' integrity have been breached at some point!
I will make this important comment in respects to AR-6:
This is one of the only 'earlier' units that is not veiled/muted in the highs. It actually has a considerably bright and upfront high. This speaker model was designed for rock music; and as such, it is brighter sounding than other AR's of the same era.
All in all, AR-6 is a great smaller-type mid-sized bookshelf that has terrific bass and clear crisp highs. The AR-6 is the only pre-Teledyne era AR that approaches the West Coast sound. It is unique; and as such, it should be a part of any serious vintage AR afficionado's collection.
Cheers
PS. I would NEVER sell mine
______________________________________________________
A flock of AR speakers (from left to right): AR-7, AR-4x, AR-6, AR-3a
Some comparison pics of AR-6 & AR-4x
Ar-6
Hi, I purchased a brand new pair of these AR6s in London in the early 1970s. In fact they were my first pair of "proper" loudspeakers! I can remember quite clearly they had CLICKY SWITCHES, either two or three position, but most definitely they were push lever type switches and not pots. Now I just picked up a pair cheap for restoring on Ebay, and they have pots - the seller again bought them around the same time from new.
So both types must have been in circulation at the same time and it can only be due to production convenience - using up the inventories of different components.
Hi PDAVID, the AR-6 with the pot is the earliest version, and subsequent versions had a two-way or three-way switch. It is best to restore the original pot, most likely the cap will require replacement, and of course, the woofer foams, too. Attached is a crossover schematic for this version. Post some pics, please.
