• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

across the bench: an electronic menagerie of diagnostic oddities plus photos and design analysis

pioneer csa500 - 13.jpg
and that should do it for the initial photo inquiry and electrical testing for the pioneer cs-a500

pair of ads speakers after a sansui dynamic duo up next (tuner+integrated).
 
sansui 517-717 - 1.jpg
sansui au-717 needs a recap and the usual transistor updates. switches and pots were not noisy on this one but they are getting sprayed regardless.

sansui 517-717 - 2.jpg
manuals and schematics also accompany each device. rack handles are for the 717 since the 517 has a pair installed already.
 
sansui 517-717 - 3.jpg
face plate in decent condition, no sign of wild parties or being dropped down a flight of stairs. the 717 looks so much nicer with the top down, leave the lackluster chassis cover in the storage closet where it belongs.

a small piece of screen mesh, similar to what is used on some mcintosh gear (mesh cage), could be fabricated to cover the amp boards and power board. perhaps a t-top with three small neodymium magnets to hold the screen in place. or a two piece bikini one for each pcb area, either way the heat sinks would benefit from greater air flow.

sansui 517-717 - 4.jpg
phono shorting jumpers factory installed and the spring loaded speaker terminals are still healthy. although this might receive a banana terminal upgrade like a previous system i posted in the sansui section of audiokarma.
 
sansui 517-717 - 5.jpg
the usual amount of ventilation for these integrated amps and they need it too. lots of hot spots and near various electrolytics especially on the au-719. the 717 doesnt have an issue with 40+40w dim bulb even when slightly exercising the outputs. the last 719 i worked on was not happy being restricted by the bulb, too much of a choke chain or doesnt like being domesticated/house-trained.
 
sansui 517-717 - 6.jpg
sansui tu-517 in decent condition, lots of dust.

sansui 517-717 - 7.jpg
everything seems to be intact, none of the usual broken plastic antenna mount.
 
sansui 517-717 - 8.jpg
tuner looks fairly clean and original inside

sansui 517-717 - 10.jpg
integrated amp looks original as well, possibly low hours since the usual hot spots do not look burned yet (pcb discoloration).
 
ads L880-2 - 1.jpg
pair of ads speakers and one of them has a low output midrange

ads L880-2 - 2.jpg
cabinets are a little rough around the edges but its still worth taking a look insude
 
ads L880-2 - 3.jpg
ads (analog & digital systems, inc) L880/2

whoever received the speaker with a s/n of 001887 should appreciate the super-symmetry of their situation and possibly invest in a lotto ticket.
 
ads L880-2 - 4.jpg
inspecting the woofer and midrange even though the xover is easy to remove on its own

ads L880-2 - 5.jpg
ads 206-0357 (jun 3 1986) and ads 206-0215
 
ads L880-2 - 6.jpg
pushing the fiberglass insulation aside to look at the xover

ads L880-2 - 7.jpg
removed pcb from the terminal cup, overall relatively simple to access. starting with a recap even though the midrange took a hit.

LCR meter is showing a different resistance and inductance vs the functional speaker. the midrange in this cabinet has lower resistance at 1khz and 2-3 times the inductance of the known good driver in the other cabinet.

there is mention of ferro-fluid for the tweeter which might be another area of concern/inspection. even though the tweeter in each cabinet is functional.

 
jolida 302a EL34 - 1.jpg
put some fresh EL34's in the jolida 302a, set the bias on the cool side for the first 10-20 hours.

jolida 302a EL34 - 2.jpg
also will be monitoring output ability with the usual 8r 100w load bank
 
jolida 302a EL34 - 4.jpg
measuring across one of the outputs (anode/plate to cathode) at idle with ~26mv bias

jolida 302a EL34 - 5.jpg
turning up the volume until just before clipping. doing some calculations 470v dc across the bulb and measuring 125mv of bias equals 58.75w at 100hz. wave amplitude in the background is 22.6v rms which equals 63.8w per channel (both bottles together, push pull).

now i am starting to see why solid state equivalent output wattage needs to be x2 or 2.5 vs tube power output. the EL34 system is usually rated for 30-38w/ch so this is an interesting experience to help solidify why the conversion calc is what it is.

max wave form testing was in 5s intervals so the new outputs (~4h burn in previous) dont get over cooked. should have done some thermal scans inside the chassis to evaluate hotter than normal-operation spots.
 
jolida 302a EL34 - 6.jpg
normal idle ~130w at 26mv bias (all four outputs stable) vs 230w for single channel max testing

a high voltage low current design definitely has its benefits especially being far more tolerant of high ripple from the power supply 1v tube vs 1mv solid state. the new technology that has sustained solid state for decades could certainly enhance tube performance and stability, primaLuna is one premium example.

*not sure about their tube clock claims, bottles are not as pinpoint accurate as sold state.
 
jolida 302a EL34 - 7.jpg
something interesting to note about the jolida and the intermittent over-biasing/red-plating of a specific output location. some of the pin sockets seem to have stretched over the years. dmm probe is smaller in diameter vs tube pin but it is a suitable feeler gauge (think spark plug gap for internal combustion vehicles) showing how much space between the contacts.

jolida 302a EL34 - 8.jpg
carefully bending the socket electrodes inward helped eliminate the occasional issue. bending each side of the socket to the point that it makes contact when testing with the dmm probe should be sufficient.

an intermittent electrical connection with a grid pin, what could possibly go wrong... typically happens when doing a cold start with the system. buzzing/arcing muffled by the ceramic socket although the heater/filament area (center of the tube) slowly gets brighter plus eventual crackle sound on the channel speaker.

too many lumens of brightness from the heater core area is a good indicator of something going wrong.
 
Back
Top Bottom