Well, I've watched two pairs go by on Ebay, one (series 2) in great shape but too much $, and one (series 1) was rough enough I didn't want it badly enough. I love the sound of my L710's, but want a tower. This may turn into a long search.:worried:
Uplander,
Of the two pairs you saw on ebay, was one pair black and hit hard with the ugly stick and the other pair wood finish and came with two midranges and stands? I saw those two auctions and picked up the wood 1090/2 pair. I paid more than I would have liked, but did it because I was able to pick them up and save on the shipping.
According to the owner's manual, (which came as a 1090 manual with a photocopied supplement for the changes made to the 1090/2), the 1090/2 substituted an 'advanced solid state tweeter protector' in place of the 1.6A fuse and eliminated the 2.5A fuse for the midrange altogether because of 'the new midrange driver's high power handling capacity' which has magnetic fluid cooling.
They have sounded nice until recently. I am getting crackling, static-like distortion and intermittent cutting out of the tweeter. It usually sounds like the distortion and crackling is isolated to the tweeter, but with the tweeter unplugged I think I hear the sounds very faintly from the midrange. I get similar distortoin from another pair of speakers and when an old car stereo speaker is plugged in place of the tweeter. It seemed to improve a bit when I took my Adcom 6 spkr selector switch out of the path.
I'm thinking maybe the crossover or the tweeter protector because of the way it sounds like the tweeter and the substituted speaker break up and cut out. There might be another source in the path for the other distortions which I think I hear faintly in the midrange.
I pulled the crossover out which is a pain to do because they didn't spare the wire lengths when the put these together. Removal of the woofer to access the wires in order to unplug them from the crossover from the inside would likely be impossible without mangling the cabinet because the drivers are adhered to the cabinet with a sticky gasket. So, I pulled the crossover out from the bottom of the cabinet as far as I could and then reached in with long needle nose pliers to unplug the wires. I'm going to make jumpers to extend them all for reassembly. I have no idea where the tweeter protection circuit is hidden so I can try bypassing it.
If anyone has ideas for the distortions and cutting out of the tweeter, I'm all ears. Thanks.
Tom