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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

marantzfan said:
I looked on PE, radio shack, etc....Do I need them or can I improvise some normal household item?
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In the simplest form, you don't need them. You drill a hole through the board at the appropriate location, poke the wire through that, and solder it to the component connection on the rear side of the board.

Solder lugs are available from electronic parts suppliers like Digikey, for example. I just happen to have a bunch in different sizes around, so I used them with screws to make the connections in that prototype. If you want to make something like that, drill holes in a copper strip and part them off.... :yes:
 
Alright, I also ordered the Jasper circle jig combo pack to route the holes and counterbore. Not a bad price at $39 for both....

Guess now I've almost got the tools together to do the ewaves down the road now...:scratch2:
 
Speaking of that circle jig.......

marantzfan said:
Alright, I also ordered the Jasper circle jig combo pack to route the holes and counterbore. Not a bad price at $39 for both....

Guess now I've almost got the tools together to do the ewaves down the road now...:scratch2:
Click to expand...

I have noted that PE sellc 2 different jigs, the Jasper and the Router buddy.
Anybody have anything to say about either of these? Any features of one that may give an advantage? either of them more protective of the faceplate's finish? The router Buddy states that it comes with a "fence that alloews you to cut daddos and rabbits for perfect cabinet assembly." Is this something useful/? Mainly I'm after something just to cut the driver holes that's easy to use and doesnt scar finished ( Like the nice gloss black PE cabs) faceplates.

Russellc
 
I've been using the bigger Jasper jig since right after it came out. The only problem I had was with my old, cheap router the mounting screws didn't sink all the way into the surface of the jig. I used masking tape over them to keep things smooth. With my new router it's not an issue. I've never used it on a pre-finished baffle though so I can't comment on that. The minimal work I did for Zilch and WB was just the standard base and a flush trim bit.

For circles smaller than about 4.5" or so I use a hole cutter on my drill press. I still do tweeter recesses, etc. with the router but through holes are easier with the hole cutter.

I can't comment on the Router Buddy itself, but I used to have (and it may still be around) a similar jig from Craftsman. I had 2 problems with it. The "infinite adjustability" meant that I had to measure from the pin to the bit to get the right size and that means kind of eyeballing the center of the pin. That was a little more labor intensive and potentially error prone than the Jasper jig were you just pick the right hole and put the pin in it. The other problem was that it used a set screw to hold the radius and a few times it shook loose so instead of a circle I ended up with an increasing spiral and a wasted piece of wood.

The downside of the Jasper is that you only get 1/16" graduations so when you run into something like the Indignia woofer that needs a x/32" hole you either have to cut it 1/32" small and sand until the woofer fits or cut it 1/32" big and paint the cutout black to mask it.

Ray
 
Well Ray, I'm taking your advice and have ordered the Jasper combo kit, by the by, its on sale for 39 bucks through PE right now, ususally 55 or so.

Russellc
 
Drilled all holes in the crossover boards and mounted all components on the boards. I cut mine a little bigger then the original (4 x 7) so mine look a little more spaced out. I will be soldering everything together tomorrow (left my damn soldering iron at work) and then as soon as the router bits get here from PE, I should get these cranked out pretty quick. Only thing I'm not completely sure about is how to attach the port to the front baffle? :scratch2:

My first time building (not recapping, etc) a pair of speakers and this is alot of fun. Can't wait to see how everything goes together!

BTW, I have chosen the Piano Black "Stealth" Indignia design like Jackgiff.
 
marantzfan said:
Drilled all holes in the crossover boards and mounted all components on the boards. I cut mine a little bigger then the original (4 x 7) so mine look a little more spaced out. I will be soldering everything together tomorrow (left my damn soldering iron at work) and then as soon as the router bits get here from PE, I should get these cranked out pretty quick. Only thing I'm not completely sure about is how to attach the port to the front baffle? :scratch2:

My first time building (not recapping, etc) a pair of speakers and this is alot of fun. Can't wait to see how everything goes together!

BTW, I have chosen the Piano Black "Stealth" Indignia design like Jackgiff.
Click to expand...

I'm probably the last person to be explaining this, but the way I understand it is that the hole from the back of the face plate is the size of the tube, but that hole only goes partially through.
The through hole as seen from the front of the faceplate is lightly smaller, and the resulting change in diameter serves as a stop for the port tube. I dont know if one hole is cut from one direction and the other size from the other, or if the smaller through hole is cut first and then the larger port sized hole added after. I think I inquired about cutting the face plates earlier in this thread, and got a couple of pretty comprehensive answers.

Russellc
 
The port would mount like Russellc describes. From the back side of the baffle, there is a 1.875" hole bored in 1/2". 1.875" seems to be a very tight fit with the PVC I used. It ranged from not fitting at all to tightly sliding in with the samples I have. A little adhesive of some sort (maybe a small amount of construction adhesive) and the port won't be going anywhere.

BTW, I have three sets of complete baffles sitting on the desk in front of me, packed and ready to ship for one Shinkboy, a RussellC, and a non-member friend of a member. Should arrive in a few days to all of your homes.
 
dnewma04 said:
The port would mount like Russellc describes. From the back side of the baffle, there is a 1.875" hole bored in 1/2". 1.875" seems to be a very tight fit with the PVC I used. It ranged from not fitting at all to tightly sliding in with the samples I have. A little adhesive of some sort (maybe a small amount of construction adhesive) and the port won't be going anywhere.

BTW, I have three sets of complete baffles sitting on the desk in front of me, packed and ready to ship for one Shinkboy, a RussellC, and a non-member friend of a member. Should arrive in a few days to all of your homes.
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Quick build and write up to follow, pics of course, I think we all know what the sound verdict will be, but I still cant wait! :thmbsp:

Russellc
 
Karma Indignia Group Buy #2

Sign up in the Group Buy thread for Indignification, and confirm via PM to the Zilchster:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2635090#post2635090

New offerings in this round include prefinished baffles and grilles for those who want to just build boxes to go behind them, milling for driver and port mounting extra, and PC boards to facilitate crossover construction.... :guitar:
 
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marantzfan said:
GODDAMNIT!

That is all...:smoke:
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It was too late by the time I saw you had done it, but there is solace in knowing you were the motivation for me getting my butt in gear to work out the logistics of making it happen again.

This group thanks you in advance.... :thmbsp:
 
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Zilch said:
It was too late by the time I saw you had done it, but there is solice in knowing you were the motivation for me getting my butt in gear to work out the logistics of making it happen again.

This group thanks you in advance.... :thmbsp:
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Oh, well....At least I can lay claim to having the most expensive Indignia's out there...:D
 
marantzfan said:
Oh, well....At least I can lay claim to having the most expensive Indignia's out there...:D
Click to expand...

That'll make 'em sound that much better, marantzfan!

The only solace I can offer is that you probably still underpaid considering how good they sound.
 
New Group Buy Options

I'd like to feature the new options of purchasing the baffles and grilles which was discussed several times early in this thread, but well buried now.

The idea is if, for example, an Indignia builder might have or find a pair of appropriate-size cabinets, up to 0.5 cuft. internal volume, cutting out an opening in the original baffles to accept installation of these new ones is a workable approach to minimizing the cost of the build.

Similarly, if someone wanted to build Indignias into their bookshelves or install them in an existing built-in or console, these might also fit.

And finally, for those of us who can build a box of MDF or plywood, but do not have the skills and equipment to put a "professional" face on our project (which would be me, certainly,) we might mate our own abilities with the stock baffles and grilles to produce a more acceptable outcome.

For these purposes, the baffle dimensions are provided here:

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/302-719s.pdf
 
Circle jig came in today and I have tomorrow off. I imagine that I will have a completed set of Indignia's by the end of the weekend...:banana:
 
A box volume and dimension question

I have read many of the posts and understand the design is shooting for a internal volume close to .4 cubic feet. I have no knowledge of the physics behind this, but I know that the woofer component has a suggested optimal volume.

So the question is: Are the speaker and crossover components figured into the volume and does it matter? What about internal damping materials?

I am preparing my blanks (flats) for the box build. My material choice was solid wood as opposed to plywood or MDF because I had some interesting material in my wood pile. The blanks required gluing up some panels and I made them slightly oversized to allow for the actual millworking. It turns out my internal volume can be as large as 12" H x 6.5"W x 11.5"D = .52cuft

To maintain the suggested baffle size my reduction in volume will come from the depth of the cabinet. Should I allow any volume for the speakers and xo and the fact that the damping materials possess some actual volume? If I figure on .38cuft unobstructed, I would reduce the internal depth to about 8.5".

What the hell, I can make it as exact as I want so I might as well.

Guidance please.

Thanks
 
The suggested volume takes into account the driver, bracing and crossover volumes but not in the usual way. Generally you get the optimum volume for a driver, then add enough volume to cover all the solids inside, and then build to that. We started off with a volume close to optimum, subtracted the solids inside, and then worked out the best porting for that volume.

So if you want to build to the original spec, go with the 8.5"/.38ft^3 measurement. If you want to add a little bass and probably lose a little power handling on the low end, then go bigger and work out the porting.

Ray
 
What Ray said. ^^^

In choosing the cabinet size, our target was the scale of the the Best Buy Insignia. The woofer we chose will actually play a bit lower in a larger 0.5 cuft. cabinet, but, as Ray says, we'd lose some power-handling capacity. As it turns out, Indignia has excellent bass, as designed.

As to damping, I used 1" semi-rigid fiberglass from a local sheet metal fabricator, what they use for damping HVAC plenums, which you can see in the pics of my prototype earlier in this thread. I paid $5 for a 4' x 6' sheet. It has a glueable backing, but I didn't have to glue it in these small boxes at all. I suspect the density is higher than normal wall insulation, but I haven't checked the spec. It cuts cleanly with scissors or shears, and installs neatly.

In addition to attenuating standing waves, fiberglass increases the virtual volume of the cabinet, effectively creating more space than it occupies, which is a prime reason it's a good damping material.... :thmbsp:
 
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