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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

By rights, you should countersink the frame, and probably the wood behind it, but the metal is so thin that localized dimpling is not likely to be an issue.

Choose a small enough flat-head screw that the head diameter just grabs a bit more than the OD of the hole in the frame.
 
Zilch said:
By rights, you should countersink the frame, and probably the wood behind it, but the metal is so thin that localized dimpling is not likely to be an issue.

Choose a small enough flat-head screw that the head diameter just grabs a bit more than the OD of the hole in the frame.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Its not that big of a deal, much of the time they are grilless anyway.
The top two mags will hold it, but if bumped, fall off. Off to buy some black flat heads!:yes:

Russellc
 
and related to that...

In defense of Dave...

I started working on baffles today and found out the hard way, as did dnewman, that the finish on these baffles is stinkin delicate. Even with masking tape on a jig that I can't feel any aberations on, I ended up with a couple of scratches on the first baffle I tried. Might be able to buff them out but that'll be something to try later.

I'll be putting together a mask for the baffle tomorrow to see if I can cut the holes without the router/jig ever touching the baffle surface.

I don't like pre-finished baffles.

Ray
 
RayW said:
In defense of Dave...

I started working on baffles today and found out the hard way, as did dnewman, that the finish on these baffles is stinkin delicate. Even with masking tape on a jig that I can't feel any aberations on, I ended up with a couple of scratches on the first baffle I tried. Might be able to buff them out but that'll be something to try later.

I'll be putting together a mask for the baffle tomorrow to see if I can cut the holes without the router/jig ever touching the baffle surface.

I don't like pre-finished baffles.

Ray
Click to expand...

Have you considered making a master template out of thinner material, and then using guide bushings on the router to cut the finished baffles? :scratch2:
 
jimbofish said:
Have you considered making a master template out of thinner material, and then using guide bushings on the router to cut the finished baffles? :scratch2:
Click to expand...

That would work ok for the through holes but not for the driver recesses. I'd have to have a bit with a cutting surface .15" long and a bearing or bushing above that in order to do the recess. Unless I went with a thick material and used a top bearing flush cut. I could do that but those things can be franking expensive so the price for baffle milling would have to go up to cover it. I'd also have to make a couple of different templates (one for through holes and one for recesses.

Another problem would be that a pattern for the recess would only get the outside pass done. Using the standard 1/4" cutting bit that the circle jig is callibrated for means doing 3 passes with decreasing radius to get the material cleaned out and then the 4th is the through hole. If I got a BIG top bearing flush cut it gets even more expensive. I suppose I could freehand the material out as long as there's enough template to support the router since that material is scrap anyway.

It's a good idea, and very workable, but I think for the cost involved and in the spirit of using what I have on hand a mask to keep the router/jig off the baffle face and using the circle jig is the easiest and least expensive way to go right now. Might be something to think about anyway...

I'll be doing some interweb searching for router bits tomorrow. That might work out as the best way to go.
 
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Ray,

Dave did a beautiful job on the baffles I worked on last Saturday, Ray.

He set the bar pretty high.

No pressure, of course.
 
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Its a painted surface guys, any thing moveing around on it is "going to leave a mark" ( although very slight if careful) and as Zilch has pointed out, the faces/grills of these cabs are not gloss like the rest of the cab, but more satin, and it can be buffed to a gloss. Sort of like auto body work, buff out the clearcoat to remove minor micro abrasions. There are lots of auto body products, many of which are right here in my garage ( car hole for you Simpsons fans) designed to remove swirll marks and other minor surface imperfections if you are wanting absolute perfection. I found mine were just fine as is. Thanks for all the effort Dave. Much, much appreciated. If I had attemped this myself, ( and I have aquired the circle jig) I would have a pile of trashed grills before I had produced 2 anywhere near as good as these.:yes:

Russellc
 
did everyone who used the PE curved side cabs have to remove material from the inside edge of the cab with the first port section mounted? i'm getting interference .... maybe i read about that back a ways, was it russell?
 
shrinkboy said:
did everyone who used the PE curved side cabs have to remove material from the inside edge of the cab with the first port section mounted? i'm getting interference .... maybe i read about that back a ways, was it russell?
Click to expand...

Yes! If you look just a few posts back I went through the same thing. Got a small drumm sander from Lowes for eight or nine bucks. With the face plate in position, look in the port hole, you can see the inside edge. Take a shapie and draw the curve on the edge, remove the front panel and sand the small divot you drew on the edge. Also make sure the first piece of pvc you stick in the port hole is long enough to let the 45 degree piece clear this same edge.

The little drum sander will open it up in a couple of mins, and you'll need it again to open the port hole up just a tad for the pvc to fit as well.

Russellc
 
shrinkboy said:
thanks russell, i just wanted to make sure i hadn't screwed something up
Click to expand...

I was a little surprised to see so much cab edge through the port hole, but once you've marked it, it isnt really that big of a divet and only takes a short effort to remove enough material for the port to clear.

Russellc
 
RayW said:
I started working on baffles today and found out the hard way, as did dnewman, that the finish on these baffles is stinkin delicate. Even with masking tape on a jig that I can't feel any aberations on, I ended up with a couple of scratches on the first baffle I tried. Might be able to buff them out but that'll be something to try later.
Ray
Click to expand...

We used a piece of butcher paper taped around the baffle, smooth side up. No marks through it, just cut through with the router. Also did it with custom wood Jig from leftover MDF but I think it works like the Jasper circle jig. Went round a 1/4 inch pin stuck through the center hole - did the recess first from the front, then the inside, and finally turn it over to do the rest of the through hole from the back, since we could only cut so deep.

The satin finish looks good on the cherry cabinets. The pan head metric allen socket screws I used with metric T nuts (only thing black at our Ace hardware) clear the grille just barely. I wanted something that had the same socket as the baffle attachment screws. So I don't see the baffle very often but it does look fine. You guys have to remember to black out the inside of the cuts so the wood does not show so much. A black marker works great. I would say the brand that starts with S but they are a competitor so I would appreciate it if you used a Marks-A-Lot instead. I did paint the inside of the port though, it is too much area for a marker.
 
Update:

Group Buy #2 shipments have commenced.

Get yer order info and $$$ in to the Zilchster, folks.... :thmbsp:
 
Are you going to keep it open after the fest? I know at least 2 pairs will be there for audition.
 
The main list is virtually a wrap, but we can probably do that.

It'll have to be soon thereafter, though; a couple of days, max.... :yes:
 
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