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Amplifier/receiver switch

So are you running the sub on receiver 1 right now without a Y cable and still getting sound to mains? If so then no Y cable is needed. The same would go for receiver 2.

One more thought...

If you hook up receiver 2 to receiver 1 via the tape outs on receiver 1, then you could just use receiver 1 as the sole one to run the sub and that would eliminate one switch. However if you are running the mains off of recever 2 you would have to use receiver 1 to then adjust the sub volume. And you could just turn the speakers to off on receiver 1 as well (but not necessary if using a switch). Does that make sense? Receiver 1 would then always be the source for the sub signal, even if using receiver 2 to run the mains. But of course then you would have to match the volume of the sub to the mains if using Receiver 2 for the mains. If using receiver 1 for both that would not be an issue... Don't know it that would be any easier or not but it would eliminate one switch...

You would still need the amp selector switch for the main speakers.

Yeah this is a pretty crazy setup...
 
I hope I am giving good advice. This whole thing kind of has my head spinning but does seem to make sense somehow...
 
coonmanx mentioned: “Then Y cables if needed at the pre outs of both receivers (only needed if the pre-outs need to loop back into the main ins).”

I’m still not sure if I need the Y cables at the pre outs of the receivers, or not. I’m leaning towards not needed, as the sub doesn’t have outputs and I don’t loop back with the current, single receiver (R-2000) setup.
But can anyone please confirm?
I don’t want anything to blow up.

As I detailed above, if relevant:
Both receivers have pre-out and main in (the R-2000 even has an on/off pre-main push switch).
The sub has L/R line in LFE only.
 
Raphaz said:
coonmanx mentioned: “Then Y cables if needed at the pre outs of both receivers (only needed if the pre-outs need to loop back into the main ins).”

I’m still not sure if I need the Y cables at the pre outs of the receivers, or not. I’m leaning towards not needed, as the sub doesn’t have outputs and I don’t loop back with the current, single receiver (R-2000) setup.
But can anyone please confirm?
I don’t want anything to blow up.

As I detailed above, if relevant:
Both receivers have pre-out and main in (the R-2000 even has an on/off pre-main push switch).
The sub has L/R line in LFE only.
Click to expand...
I would try it first just running the sub off of receiver 1 and using its volume control to match the mains level if you decide to use receiver 2. Connect the tape out from 1 to the tape in on 2. Push the tape monitor button on 2. That gets you whatever source you have selected on 1. This will be a good test run and there shouldn't be any reason that you would be "blowing anything up"...
 
Sorry but I’m not sure if I understand how to wire everything with coonmanx’s solution above.
Can you clarify?

I’m assuming the first part stays as is:
  • Source switch Line Out to >> Pro+ Line In
  • Pro+ line out to >> receiver 1 Aux In
Connecting the receivers:
  • Tape out receiver 1 (R-2000) to >> receiver 2 (Nikko) tape in

For the sub:
  • Pre out receiver 1 to >> Switch Box In A
  • Pre out receiver 2 to >> Switch Box In B
  • Switch Box Line Out to sub LFE In
  • That way I can select which receiver feeds the sub
  • No Y cables needed here, correct?
But from there I’m not sure.
Could I get away with Switch Box? As in:
  • Receiver 1 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Switch Box Speaker In A L/R
  • Receiver 2 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Switch Box Speaker In B L/R
  • Switch Box Out L/R >> to >> main speakers
  • That way I can select which receiver, A (receiver 1) or B (receiver 2) feeds the main speakers (similar to what we do with the sub above
Essentially two more of the Solupeak switches like the one I already have before the Pro+

Does that all make any sense?
 
The thing is...

Pre-out/main in may be implemented differently on different things. So it's hard to say. But if you are using a sub from pre-outs now and are not looping back into the mains without using a Y cable then a Y cable is not needed.
 
The main switch box that will be needed will be the one which determines which receiver outputs to the speakers. Because as I said before you can always start out by always running the sub off of receiver 1 and using it to adjust sub volume. That would eliminate the switch box for the pre-outs to the sub. See if you like it that way first and then see if you want to run the extra switch box if you don't like that setup.
 
Thank you!
coonmanx said:
The main switch box that will be needed will be the one which determines which receiver outputs to the speakers. Because as I said before you can always start out by always running the sub off of receiver 1 and using it to adjust sub volume. That would eliminate the switch box for the pre-outs to the sub. See if you like it that way first and then see if you want to run the extra switch box if you don't like that setup.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, let’s say I skip the switch for the sub (for now) and run the sub always from receiver 1 (independent of which of the two receivers I pick to feed the main speakers).

So now we have:

1
  • Source switch Line Out to >> Pro+ Line In
  • Pro+ line out to >> receiver 1 Aux In
2
  • Tape Out receiver 1 (R-2000) to >> receiver 2 (Nikko) Tape In
3
  • Pre Out receiver 1 to >> sub LFE In
4
  • Receiver 1 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Amp/Speaker Switch, Speaker In A L/R
  • Receiver 2 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Amp/Speaker Switch, Speaker In B L/R
  • Amp/Speaker Switch L/R >> to >> main speakers

I’d use a Amp/Speaker Switch like this: https://a.co/d/6kSjq8x, or something like this https://a.co/d/i0dgUdf (w/meters and speaker switching options) in the future; and I probably need speaker-to-RCA cables like those: https://a.co/d/6kSjq8x

Any objections to the above solution, anyone?
Any risk for unwanted coloring of sound or added noise? Any safety concerns?
Any risk of blowing something up, frying or shortening something?

Thank you all!
 
Raphaz said:
Ok, let’s say I skip the switch for the sub (for now) and run the sub always from receiver 1 (independent of which of the two receivers I pick to feed the main speakers).

So now we have:

1
  • Source switch Line Out to >> Pro+ Line In
  • Pro+ line out to >> receiver 1 Aux In
2
  • Tape Out receiver 1 (R-2000) to >> receiver 2 (Nikko) Tape In
3
  • Pre Out receiver 1 to >> sub LFE In
4
  • Receiver 1 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Amp/Speaker Switch, Speaker In A L/R
  • Receiver 2 Speaker Out Cannel A L/R to >> Amp/Speaker Switch, Speaker In B L/R
  • Amp/Speaker Switch L/R >> to >> main speakers

I’d use a Amp/Speaker Switch like this: https://a.co/d/6kSjq8x, or something like this https://a.co/d/i0dgUdf (w/meters and speaker switching options) in the future; and I probably need speaker-to-RCA cables like those: https://a.co/d/6kSjq8x

Any objections to the above solution, anyone?
Any risk for unwanted coloring of sound or added noise? Any safety concerns?
Any risk of blowing something up, frying or shortening something?

Thank you all!
Click to expand...
For the cables link I meant https://a.co/d/b2lkKn6
 
Yeah, either of those amp/speaker switch boxes should work just fine. Not sure you need a cable with an RCA end on it. Those switch boxes should take regular wire with the ends stripped.
 
If it were me I would probably get the Solupeak one because it is cheaper. But if you like the look of meters...
 
Than
coonmanx said:
If it were me I would probably get the Solupeak one because it is cheaper. But if you like the look of meters...
Click to expand...
Thank you again, coonmanx!

I agree. I’ll order the Solupeak P2 for now. I already have one of their switches, and the quality seems fine. It can safely pass 200W peak for each channel, that seems to be sufficient. I like the simple two position toggle, it prevents any wrong moves.

The switch seems to have banana jack binding posts. Not sure if it takes bare wire. But I can always add banana plugs if needed (I may have some laying around somewhere).

I’ll report back on how it goes.
 
Raphaz said:
The switch seems to have banana jack binding posts. (...)
Click to expand...

Yes and no. I.e., according to one of the pics in the product description on Amazon(.com), the P2 sports 5-way binding post - which will not only accept 4 mm plugs, but also spade and pin connectors as well as bare wires (either through the holes or wrapped around).

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
lini said:
Yes and no. I.e., according to one of the pics in the product description on Amazon(.com), the P2 sports 5-way binding post - which will not only accept 4 mm plugs, but also spade and pin connectors as well as bare wires (either through the holes or wrapped around).

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
Click to expand...
This...
 
I'm pretty much there.
One more question regarding the connection between the two receivers.
What's better:
A: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Tape In
B: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Aux In

The last solution/version I posted above had A, but an in an earlier version I posted B. Both times nobody had any objections. Can I assume that both would be fine?
What's the difference (if any in this case) and which method is preferable, and why?

Thank you!
 
Raphaz said:
I'm pretty much there.
One more question regarding the connection between the two receivers.
What's better:
A: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Tape In
B: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Aux In

The last solution/version I posted above had A, but an in an earlier version I posted B. Both times nobody had any objections. Can I assume that both would be fine?
What's the difference (if any in this case) and which method is preferable, and why?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
I just tried both A and B — I'm not getting anything on the Nikko either way. The sub and the wireless remotes receive the signal because they're fed by receiver 1 and the Pro+, respectively, independently of receiver 2 . However, I get nothing on receiver 2 (Nikko) for the mains. That's a bummer!

I think I tried pretty much all possible setting combinations. If helpful, I'm attaching pictures below that show the setting and in/out options for both.

The Nikko was serviced recently, and I tested it. It works perfectly fine. And in the current setup, with nothing else connected to it, except receiver 1, the radio still worked on the Nikko. What's going on here? What am I missing?


Do I need to remove the bridges for the main in/pre out? Could that be it?

Receivers-connected_setting-wiring.jpg
 
Raphaz said:
What's better:
A: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Tape In
B: Tape Out (PB) Receiver 1 (Yamaha R-2000) to receiver 2 (Nikko 1219) Aux In
Click to expand...

Not PB! Tape PB would be the inputs. Rec out are the outputs.

And in theory A would be a little more direct, as in case of B the input signal would have to pass both the input selector and the tape switch, which in case of B it would only have to pass the tape switch. If both switches are still ok, you shouldn't really notice a difference, though.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
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