I tried with and without the pre-main jumpers. Same result: The Nikko (receiver 2) does not receive or/and output the signal coming from receiver 1.
Aw! Rec Out, of course! Stupid me! I'll try that. Thank you, lini!
Removing the Pre/Main jumpers on the Nikko (receiver 2) or not? I'm assuming removing, but wanted to confirm.
lini
just me...
Why would you want to remove these jumpers?
Anyway, fur forther diagnosis you'd best tell, what's currently connected to what via which inputs and outputs.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
I think that's where it's currently at.
lini
just me...
Yup, and the Wiim is going to Aux on the Yamaha, I suppose.
Anyway, did you reinstall the jumpers on the Nikko in the meantime? If not, do that.
Now for a test: Either tune in a station on the Yamaha or play something on/through the Wiim and set the record selector on the Yamaha to either Tuner or Aux accordingly. Then switch the tape selector on the Nikko to Tape 2. With the volume control on the Nikko turned down, switch the amp/speaker switchbox over to the Nikko and slowly turn up the volume on the Nikko. Does it work now?
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
Wiim to Aux, yep.
Now, as for the jumpers, I just lost one of them; it fell (it's a tight spot against the wall where my receivers are), and now, of course, I can't find that bastard.
I don't want to order and wait around. How about a very short DIY jumper cable — either from a single electrical wire or from a threaded-together speaker wire? I happen to have four of those Sewell banana plugs lying around. See attached. Any concerns?
Almost there, I hope.
Now, as for the jumpers, I just lost one of them; it fell (it's a tight spot against the wall where my receivers are), and now, of course, I can't find that bastard.
I don't want to order and wait around. How about a very short DIY jumper cable — either from a single electrical wire or from a threaded-together speaker wire? I happen to have four of those Sewell banana plugs lying around. See attached. Any concerns?
Almost there, I hope.
lini
just me...
Then simply use RCA cables instead. With 4 mm plugs you'd only ruin the jacks.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
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I'm pleased to report that the missing jumper finally reappeared.
It was caught hiding between two speaker wires, against the wall, behind the shelf.
Both jumpers are now back on.
It works! Yay!
I finally get to switch between the two receivers and listen to how they differ in sound when fed to the same main speakers.
I'm excited!
They both sound terrific — that I knew.
The first obvious thing (and not particularly surprising) is that I have to crank up the volume of the Nikko a tad more when I want to compare them on the same volume level and maintain a healthy balance with the sub.
The Nikko sounds slightly "warmer," almost old school "tuby" against the Yammy, provides the speakers with more "belly" if that makes sense. The highs are crisp, not harsh or distorted, but very forward, against the lower mids, as if the higher mids are a bit more laid-back, pushed slightly to the background. It's pleasant!
That, of course, is in comparison to the Yammy, which is more revealing and super well-balanced, with clarity throughout the entire spectrum, and overall a bit more forward, with a more immediate impact.
So far, no surprises. But that's just after 15 minutes of semi-focused listening, though. And, to be fair, I'm a bit biased and expect to hear certain things from both, as I know them both well.
More to come. I hope I can spend a bit more focused time with them towards the end of the week.
For now, thank you all for your suggestions here and for sharing your stereophile wisdom.
It can be a time-consuming and costly passion, but when things work, when you get to enjoy it, it's well worth it!
It was caught hiding between two speaker wires, against the wall, behind the shelf.
Both jumpers are now back on.
It works! Yay!
I finally get to switch between the two receivers and listen to how they differ in sound when fed to the same main speakers.
I'm excited!
They both sound terrific — that I knew.
The first obvious thing (and not particularly surprising) is that I have to crank up the volume of the Nikko a tad more when I want to compare them on the same volume level and maintain a healthy balance with the sub.
The Nikko sounds slightly "warmer," almost old school "tuby" against the Yammy, provides the speakers with more "belly" if that makes sense. The highs are crisp, not harsh or distorted, but very forward, against the lower mids, as if the higher mids are a bit more laid-back, pushed slightly to the background. It's pleasant!
That, of course, is in comparison to the Yammy, which is more revealing and super well-balanced, with clarity throughout the entire spectrum, and overall a bit more forward, with a more immediate impact.
So far, no surprises. But that's just after 15 minutes of semi-focused listening, though. And, to be fair, I'm a bit biased and expect to hear certain things from both, as I know them both well.
More to come. I hope I can spend a bit more focused time with them towards the end of the week.
For now, thank you all for your suggestions here and for sharing your stereophile wisdom.
It can be a time-consuming and costly passion, but when things work, when you get to enjoy it, it's well worth it!
lini
just me...
That's nice. Finally...
That's not much of a surprise: Line level (= tape & aux) input sensitivity of the R-2000 is 120 mV for (2x) 150 W @ 8 Ohm - compared to 150 mV for (2x) 100 W @ 8 Ohm for the NR-1219. So the Yamaha has a higher overall gain (and also line-stage gain, as main-in sensitivity is 1 V for both the Yamaha and the Nikko).
Now the interesting question is: Would you like to leave it as is - or would you rather add either another selector switch (plus Y-adaptors/Y-cables for the Nikko) or a high/speaker to low/line level adaptor), so you can listen via the Nikko with active subwoofer support without the need for the Yamaha to be running for the purpose?
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
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I think I'm fine for now but I can see pursuing that in the near future
Regarding adding another switch for the sub, as you suggested, I considered it — it might be a good idea. I just needed to be able to switch between the receivers. It would be sweet, though.
For now, I'll focus on the challenging task of upgrading to speakers that can fill my large, acoustically unusual and difficult space better than the current Q500s, without adding too much footprint. That being said, it would come in handy to have a switch that allows me to compare two pairs of speakers. I know there's a Solupeak switch that allows for switching between two amps/receivers and two pairs of speakers (basically the P2 I just installed, plus added speaker output). I don't see myself adding many more switches and gadgets. But considering all of that, it may become overkill switcheroo — besides the P2 that is now used to switch between the two receivers, I also have a source switch and a little phono pre. I start wondering if there's something that could do all the switching in one device (smart preamp?).
Currently, I enjoy the receivers. Initially, I intended to just compare them for a while and then decide which one to sell .That may not happen, though. I like them both too much.
It's not a surprise, I know.That's nice. Finally...
That's not much of a surprise: Line level (= tape & aux) input sensitivity of the R-2000 is 120 mV for (2x) 150 W @ 8 Ohm - compared to 150 mV for (2x) 100 W @ 8 Ohm for the NR-1219. So the Yamaha has a higher overall gain (and also line-stage gaim, as main-in sensitivity is 1 V for both the Yamaha and the Nikko).
Now the interesting question is: Would you like to leave it as is - or would you rather add either another selector switch (plus Y-adaptors/Y-cables for the Nikko) or a high/speaker to low/line level adaptor), so you can listen via the Nikko with active subwoofer support without the need for the Yamaha to be running for the purpose?
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
Regarding adding another switch for the sub, as you suggested, I considered it — it might be a good idea. I just needed to be able to switch between the receivers. It would be sweet, though.
For now, I'll focus on the challenging task of upgrading to speakers that can fill my large, acoustically unusual and difficult space better than the current Q500s, without adding too much footprint. That being said, it would come in handy to have a switch that allows me to compare two pairs of speakers. I know there's a Solupeak switch that allows for switching between two amps/receivers and two pairs of speakers (basically the P2 I just installed, plus added speaker output). I don't see myself adding many more switches and gadgets. But considering all of that, it may become overkill switcheroo — besides the P2 that is now used to switch between the two receivers, I also have a source switch and a little phono pre. I start wondering if there's something that could do all the switching in one device (smart preamp?).
Currently, I enjoy the receivers. Initially, I intended to just compare them for a while and then decide which one to sell .That may not happen, though. I like them both too much.
lini
just me...
Actually the speaker to line level converter would be the better idea. I.e., due to the R-2000 besides the higher line-stage gain also having a higher power-amp section gain than the NR-1219, the ratios between pre-amp output level and power-amp output level (or respectively the ratios between subwoofer volume and speaker volume) differ as well. So that difference would need to be compensated for, if you'd feed the sub alternately via the pre-amp outputs of the Yamaha and the Nikko. Whereas that wouldn't be necessary, if the input signal for the sub would be generated by a speaker to line level converter after the amp/speaker switch.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
Glad it all worked out. I thought I was giving decent advice but you had to try it to see if it worked. And it did. Carry on...
You did
You did help a lot. So did Manfred and others here. I appreciate it!
You’re suggesting a speaker to line converter.
Can you point me to a good quality version?
Would that replace the switch I just added or would that be in addition? Where would that go, how would I wire that?
lini
just me...
You'd add that in parallel to the loudspeakers at the output of the amp/speaker switch.
In its simplest form such a speaker/high to line/low level converter just consists of an L-pad/voltage divider per channel, consisting of a pair of resistors each, at which the input voltage drops in relation to the values of the resistors.
For an example, let's have a look a this nicely made, albeit not inexpensve (considering that there's not much inside...) exemplar by subwoofer manufacturer SVS: https://www.svsound.de/SoundPath-Speaker-Level-Subwoofer-Adapter/103090/ Specified input impedance is 4.85 kOhm, output impedance 150 Ohm, from which we can conclude, that for each voltage divider the series resistor (R1) will be 4.7 kOhm and the parallel resistor will be 150 Ohm. And the equation for the output voltage would be V(out) = V(in) * (R2 / (R1 + R2)) = V(in) * not quite 0.031. And the attenuation from speaker to line level would be 20 * log (R2 / (R1 + R2)) = not quite (-) 30.2 dB. And in case you'd wonder: The input impedance of the R-112SW in parallel to R2 can be ignored there, as it'll be high enough, that it's parallel sum with R2 will be hardly lower than R2.
So in practice that would mean, that an amp output voltage of ca. 28,3 V (which would be equivalent to an output power of ca. 100 W @ 8 Ohm) into that SVS converter would produce a line/low level output of ca. 875 mV.
However, while I've found the official datasheet for your R-112SW, Klipsch hasn't mentioned the input sensitivity (and the input impedance also isn't mentioned... *sigh*) - and unfortunately the user manual doesn't seem to contain a spec section at all. Hence I'd suggest you to contact Klipsch and ask for a proper input sensitivity spec - 'cause without I can't tell for sure, whether that converter box by SVS would really be a decent suggestion for your needs.
That being said, personally I'd probably build such a converter myself, as I wouldn't be willing to pay almost 100 Euro for four resistors in a plastic box.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini
CharlieBee
Super Member
I have double pole, double throw toggle' three amp switches, from ebay, mounted on the backs of three sets of speakers, one switch per speaker.
The Center pole goes to the speaker and a end poles are connected, one end to each of two receivers. The switch end poles area labeled as to which receiver it is hooked up to. Care must be taken to keep the positive terminals of the speakers and receivers a aligned.
These speakers have been installed for over 15 years and one of the receivers has 3 pairs of speakers and other receiver has 4 pairs of speakers.
One set of receivers are a pair of 9090 and Pioneer 1010 and a the other is a pair of 9090 and AA-1200. Each receive has two TTs, CD, and cassette players. One receiver has JBL 100 and Ar3a speakers and it is fun to switch from West coast and East coast speakers. All these setups are in the model train and audio room above a garage.
I also have a pair of HPM 100 speakers that switch between 9090db in the family room with the HPM 100s and a Pioneer SX 780 receivers is a large closet computer room.
I am not interested in paying for an expensive speaker switch and my Chinese DPDT $2 switches work just fine and do not know they are switching between receivers and speakers worth hundreds of dollars each.
Charlie
The Center pole goes to the speaker and a end poles are connected, one end to each of two receivers. The switch end poles area labeled as to which receiver it is hooked up to. Care must be taken to keep the positive terminals of the speakers and receivers a aligned.
These speakers have been installed for over 15 years and one of the receivers has 3 pairs of speakers and other receiver has 4 pairs of speakers.
One set of receivers are a pair of 9090 and Pioneer 1010 and a the other is a pair of 9090 and AA-1200. Each receive has two TTs, CD, and cassette players. One receiver has JBL 100 and Ar3a speakers and it is fun to switch from West coast and East coast speakers. All these setups are in the model train and audio room above a garage.
I also have a pair of HPM 100 speakers that switch between 9090db in the family room with the HPM 100s and a Pioneer SX 780 receivers is a large closet computer room.
I am not interested in paying for an expensive speaker switch and my Chinese DPDT $2 switches work just fine and do not know they are switching between receivers and speakers worth hundreds of dollars each.
Charlie
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Coming back here after months with some more questions on this.
Based on your explanations above, would you be able to guide me through the process of adding a speaker-to-line-level converter, so that when I switch, the Nikko (instead of the Yamaha) drives the mains and the sub?
From what I understand, the first step is to ask Klipsch support for the sub's input sensitivity specs, which would then help me determine what kind of converter to look for, correct? I probably need to point out that I won't construct this converter myself.
Can you help me find the right converter and explain where/how to connect it?
Also, would I need a different converter if I upgrade to a different sub or get a different receiver in the future?
Thanks in advance!
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