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Another Maggy Thread

Oh, now you've gone commercial.
That looks fantastic.

Did I miss something?
Is that contact paper over the top of the chassis?

Thats marketable for sure

It's Cherry veneer, Bandit brand. The pita part is waiting for the coats of tung to dry.:thumbsdn:
 
Reading this post I put away the VM 165 im converting to guitar amp duty and opened Fibber McGee's closet.

<snip>

So I dug out a Magnavox 9302-00 chassis.
Looks alot like yours there but a little different. Any thoughts on this chassis?

This guy says some nice things about that amp. Tried to find some pictures of it, is that the one with the larger outputs? I really want one of those.

http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/t.pl?f=tweaks&m=42870


I saved the Magnavox emblem and taped it to the chassis when I disasssembled the console this came from.

Man, I *so* want some of those old emblems for my builds. This one is all I could find on Epay. It is kinda interesting in that it has a drawer handle on it! I am pretty sure I will not be using that handle.

My blushing bride is quite scared of fire (and dentists) and she tells me in a casual way that she like tube amps that have wood cabinets . . . So I am guessing I will need to enclose my amp in a wood and screen affair. I have really been smitten with art-deco style radios and cabinets lately, so I am dreaming about some thing that is enclosed, but has lots of air and openings.

But maybe I am dreaming. My shop is filled from top to bottom and I am doing restorations on top of an old freezer.

Dan
 

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Well Im glad it is a chassis with regard.
It would slow my steam if someone said it was a signal puking magnet fodder.
This one uses 4 6QB5's and a 5U4 rectifier but the pre's are 6EU7's. Thats the reason I let it sit for so long. No viable subs for that tube and they are on the list of tubes that cost alot of money nowadays. This chassis was actually on the list to be sold off.

But... since I got 2 new 6EU7's in a lot of tubes I bought a few weeks ago, and this thread has sparked me, this one gets to see the light.

The emblem is clean but cracked in the middle. The only plus is that If I can permenantly get it on before it fully breaks in half it will be ok since the crack is on the back side.

Ive already re-capped it, moved the power cord to the rear, added a fuse, made up a wood surround out of figured Poplar and added rubber feet.

Its coming along but Its not gonna look near as good as jaymanaa's

Knifefighter... if you want one of these, its easy.
first, put down the knife.
second, Keep your eye on your local Craigs List for a Maggy console.
Thats where I got mine. I think the console this one was in was even in the free section.
$40 tops and it comes with a logo on the front.
 
Parts came in, so now I have to work on some old crappy clunky organ amps.:no: Oh well, the good thing about tube amps is, they don't eat everday, so this'un will have to wait a spell. To be continued.........................................
 
Parts came in, so now I have to work on some old crappy clunky organ amps.:no: Oh well, the good thing about tube amps is, they don't eat everday, so this'un will have to wait a spell. To be continued.........................................

Just send those crappy, clunky organ amps this way when your done with em :)
 
I figured that, I was just thinking of "knob turners" if you sold it (I guess you could mount it underneath and use a screwdriver slot type pot) I think I'll try it out on my next Maggie (this one).:D

That's what I did with the amp I built like that- the pots were only accessible from underneath, if you took the bottom cover off. To the casual observer, it doesn't exist. :D

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Just FYI, the 6EU7 is the SAME tube as a 12AX7, but has a different pinout.
You can rewire the pins to use 12AX7 tubes and roll till your hearts content.

I've got a pair of Maggie single ended EL84 stereo amps that I will be rewiring
here shortly and doing a bit of circuit changing so I can run 12AT7 tube types.

Well Im glad it is a chassis with regard.
It would slow my steam if someone said it was a signal puking magnet fodder.
This one uses 4 6QB5's and a 5U4 rectifier but the pre's are 6EU7's. Thats the reason I let it sit for so long. No viable subs for that tube and they are on the list of tubes that cost alot of money nowadays. This chassis was actually on the list to be sold off.

But... since I got 2 new 6EU7's in a lot of tubes I bought a few weeks ago, and this thread has sparked me, this one gets to see the light.

The emblem is clean but cracked in the middle. The only plus is that If I can permenantly get it on before it fully breaks in half it will be ok since the crack is on the back side.

Ive already re-capped it, moved the power cord to the rear, added a fuse, made up a wood surround out of figured Poplar and added rubber feet.

Its coming along but Its not gonna look near as good as jaymanaa's

Knifefighter... if you want one of these, its easy.
first, put down the knife.
second, Keep your eye on your local Craigs List for a Maggy console.
Thats where I got mine. I think the console this one was in was even in the free section.
$40 tops and it comes with a logo on the front.
 
That sounds excellent. Id like to follow along if possible.

Im gonna use the 6EU7's on this chassis since I came along a couple NOS but for the future.....

Along the same lines, Ive got a bunch of the russian 6h2n's that are supposed to be the same as a 12ax7 with a pin out change.
Any ideas on these?
Im ready to throw them out.
 
First of all you never throw ANY tube out! :)

Secondly yes the 6h2n (same as 6n2p) is again basically electrically equivalent to 12ax7.
They have a 9AJ pinout, same as a 6DJ8, which again means same pinout as 12ax7, BUT
it only has a 6.3v heater using pins 4,5 where the 12ax7 has both the 12.6v and 6.3v to
be able to use with pin 9 as well, being 9A pinout.

So anything that can use a 12ax7 pinout can easily be rewired with 1 pin to use the 6h2n.
(You could put a little jumper in to go back an forth if you wanted then as well)

------------------

No problem following along, I'll start a new thread in the next couple days, chime in all u want.
 
I definately want to see what changes are needed to use AT7s in place of AX7s. I'd also like to know the same about AU7s. IMO, the AT7 is the best sounding of that group, and they are also very affordable.:yes:
 
12at7

I picked up a few 12AT7s to make sure all my Fender amps use them right before the outputs . . . want to make sure they all sound right because I think I messed up my super reverb by sticking in some 12ax7s in that spot.

Plus I thought I was buying an amp that used them but that deal fell through :)

Anyway, I crossposted a link to this thread on the maggie forum, maybe we can get some ideas from there on the venerable 175 amp!

It would rock if we could get some secrets out of Gabe :banana:

Knife
 
I definately want to see what changes are needed to use AT7s in place of AX7s. I'd also like to know the same about AU7s. IMO, the AT7 is the best sounding of that group, and they are also very affordable.:yes:

I'm also jonesin' to use some 12AT7s in these designs.

Ramp up the current through them (12AX7s like about 1-2ma, 12AT7s like 3-6ma or so)... you get almost the same gain as the 12AX7, in real-life, and lower output impedance. Serious drive...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Agreed, at some of the awful low currents 12AX7's run in quite a few circuits, put
a 12AT7 in there with a propper/lower load an they can output just as much gain.

In a lot of 12AX7 circuits all it really takes is knocking the plate load resistor down
to between 50 and 80k, an quite often you are in business without doing anything
else, they'll have decent plate voltage and more current then the 12AX7.
 
9304-20

One more of these great amps will be spared the indignity of the landfill.:banana: This one is a 9304-20, which looks to have a hair bigger iron than some of the other 6BQ5 Maggy amps. It will get my tweeked version of the 175 circuit, which is pretty much all I use on these guys now. The wood base is Chestnut, but has no oil on it yet. I'm going to try to build a metal box on the back of this one to conceal the 3 transformers. They are in a nice clean row, so it should be fairly straight forward. I may end up putting some darker wood gussets in the corners too, since there isn't any way to put them inside.

hi, do you have a schematic of your tweaked 9304? I am starting a from scratch version of this amp using the iron from a 9300---maybe new opt's though. Thanks, Stan
 
Yeah Jay, more schemos!

I dunno if we can get Jay to give up his secret audiophile version schematics of the maggie amp!

The best we were able to do was post them per his specs and say, "oh mighty Jay, is this the right path?"

The good news is, he says we are on the path to the Light!

(Or is that sound?):banana:

Look in this thread for posts # 16, 20, and 43 for schematics and links to the modified 175 schematic

Wait! I can not believe I have missed this the entire thread.

We need to add schematic for EL84s or we completely miss the next level of audiophile nirvana.

Thanks for bringing this oversight to our attention Stan!

I don't think I have any NOS el84 to trace . . .
 

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The 175 schematic was originally for 6V6s, but with the changes I outlined, it works very well with EL84s (better than 6V6s really). Just make sure you account for the pinout differences, and check the tube draw when finished. I want to say I ended up with a 5watt 220 or 250 ohm cathode resistor (bypassed by a few 100uf) for each pair of outputs. I always suggest using separate cathode resistors for each channel to eliminate crosstalk issues and the need for matched quads. Matched pairs are much easier to come by, especially if you want to use NOS tubes.:thmbsp:
 
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