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Another Super High End Phono Stage! No expense spared...

Looks like a lot of capacitors at the output. Why not go with an Auricap film there and then strap them to the inside of the box. I'm going to have to calculate the right value needed for a flat 20 Hz. Of course it depends on the input impedance.

I have enough spare polypropylene film (not metalized) to give it a try with a few different values.

Realistically speaking, we can't get a clean 20 Hz in most of the rooms I have seen. Certainly not mine.
 
Did you miss the heavy duty aluminum foil attached (adhesive spray??) to the inside of the box? And the felt lining is a nice touch. Sound damping????

My Grandfather had a tobacco store and news shop in Paris, TN in the 1950s. Cigar boxes and old newspapers accumulated quickly. I remember a part of one wall of his garage being lined with wooden cigar boxes. I'd guess that they were all tossed one day when Grandmother asked him to clean out the garage.

Memories - - -
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Not cardboard Grainger. These were all wooden ones, like what Fasterdamnit found.

Also, All those big caps on his CNC are probably those fancy polypropolyne ones.
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Thanks, guys!

Looks like a lot of capacitors at the output. Why not go with an Auricap film there and then strap them to the inside of the box. I'm going to have to calculate the right value needed for a flat 20 Hz. Of course it depends on the input impedance.

I have enough spare polypropylene film (not metalized) to give it a try with a few different values.

Realistically speaking, we can't get a clean 20 Hz in most of the rooms I have seen. Certainly not mine.

There are two output caps per channel- Panasonic 1uf plus .1uf polyprop. I have yet to find better, including Auricaps.

I am going to have to look for these boxes, it looks great Jim.

Thanks, Phillip! Simple build kinda got out of hand. But I am stasified with the results. :thmbsp:

Did you miss the heavy duty aluminum foil attached (adhesive spray??) to the inside of the box? And the felt lining is a nice touch. Sound damping????

My Grandfather had a tobacco store and news shop in Paris, TN in the 1950s. Cigar boxes and old newspapers accumulated quickly. I remember a part of one wall of his garage being lined with wooden cigar boxes. I'd guess that they were all tossed one day when Grandmother asked him to clean out the garage.

Memories - - -
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Heh- Titebond II watered down and a brush on the wood. The felt was just some old material I decided to play with for the heck of it. The boxes come in a lot of shapes and finishes- good fun. :yes:
 
And Jim, I have to ask since you mentioned them yesterday. Have you tried bypassing with the Teflon KKs?

In my personal CNC in the silver jewelry box, yes. A set you had already broken in. Did very nice things for the highs. Better clarity and somehow smoother. :guitar:
 
When I tried the Russian Teflon caps (on a tube preamp) I found the same. smooth and extremely clear.
Ron
 
Built two CNCs today with lot of help from a friend who is well skilled. Here are some pictures.
 

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This is my build so far ...

I am hoping to finish it today but I do have questions regarding how to power the Switch Selector, LDR and B1 from the PSU unit. I don't know exactly the voltages of these 3 units and I have an output of 24VDC from the PSU. I am wondering if I can power them from that output.

Hopefully someone could shime in. Meanwhile here are my pictures ....
 

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The CNC & SSP will be OK with +/-9VDC up thru +/-18VDC (do not exceed!), but 12 or 15 is probably better. Read the whole thread, then run some trials to find what works best for you. Most of the AK builders seem to be using 9 or 12VDC batteries.

The LSA uses a 7805 to regulate the input down to +5VDC, but Mishra reports that the input needs to be less than 12VDC or the 7805 gets a 'leetle' too warm.

I cannot speak for the other boards. Look for Mishra's posts on HFV.
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It is ALL WORKING FINE

First of all, I want to thank Sachin and Omishra for all of their help via this forum/thread and their countless emails. My hat off to you guys, THANK YOU. :banana:

Well, I was reviewing various email threads between OM and me and I found out the reason he suggested that I should use a different set of Inductors and Electrolytic Capacitors so that I could run all of the boards from the same PSU. So, I did, and connected the Switch Selector and LDR to the +15VDC side of the PSU. The PASS B1 is connected to the 24VDC and the CNC and SSP both to the -15VDC | 0 | +15VDC. I also used the LED port provided on the PASS B1 for the "Power LED" just above the ON/OFF switch and use an amber LED. On the SSP and CNC I am using the 2134 OPAmp.

I haven't try the turntable yet. :nono:

Sound??? Well I can tell that the Highs are very subtle and more define as well as the Mid's and Low's. No distortion, no noise, just a pleasure to listen to my system. I must say this, the Marantz 2252B was completely recap. That definately made a big difference in sound. A replaced every elect cap from all of the boards. Fixed the FM Stereo as well. As you can see from my pictures I have a set of Bose 901 Series III and I replaced all of the drivers with new ones and recap the Bose Active EQ. I also have an MXR EQ and that too replaced the two caps and the voltage regulators and cleaned the sliders. I am also using a Behringer Sonic Exciter SX-3040 to enhance and dominate the Low's and High's. :D

My idea is to move the Switch Selector LED's and install them on the Front Plate of the aluminum box but that will be another project. Meanwhile, here are some more pictures of the final project. :yes:
 

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