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AR 2-A SCORE and questions...

Drugolf said:
That's not too bad a stain though. The white paint lingering down in the open grain is just making it stand out more. The dark ones are the bad ones.
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can you explain what you mean here... stain? the dark ones are the bad ones?
there are a couple places where i rounded the edges of the veneer too much i will have to stain thouse somehow to hide / blend it... not sure how yet
 
GD70 said:
Only use this sealer, period. A lot of time and testing was done developing it, it's the closest sealer to the factory stuff you can get.

Once you're done with these, you'll have a great sounding pair of speakers.
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im not gonna be able to wait until the end of february for the AR guy on ebay to get back from vacation to sell me this sealer lol.... it will drive me insane... do u have any you want to sell? lol

i would go straight to him and buy all the parts i need at once if he wasnt on vacation.... just my luck
 
Great work! Once you see these stained and finished you will love them even more.

Vintage AR's are special for a reason. Now get them recapped and the controls cleaned and you will be all set. :beatnik:

(Bet these are not your last pair of AR's either)
 
stumptacular said:
im not gonna be able to wait until the end of february for the AR guy on ebay to get back from vacation to sell me this sealer lol.... it will drive me insane... do u have any you want to sell? lol

i would go straight to him and buy all the parts i need at once if he wasnt on vacation.... just my luck
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if you have one still fully assembled, push in on the cone of the woofer and hold for a 5 count. let it go. if if springs back immediately, they probably need to be resealed. if it takes a couple of seconds to fully spring back, you don't need it...
 
that is curious about vintage AR, I just got confirmation of a shipment for some surrounds I ordered. Try Ljlagace@aol.com email for Larry, he is generally pretty quick. Don't sweat the sealer at this point, you have much to do still! I have some you can have if worse comes to worse, or possibly Roy (who has yet to respond but I suspect has seen this thread) may have an idea of where to get some if Larry is in fact incommunicado.

NO STAIN! Watco Danish Oil neutral is a good choice seeing as you have sanded off some of the old "finish", a couple coats. Review some of Glenn's threads and follow that guidance! Follow up with some Howards Beeswax for polish.

Great work stumpy, this thread will become a great resource for others in the future.

Roy?
 
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Watcos! Any finish with wax will prevent future oil from penetrating and moistening the wood. These were not waxed at the factory.
I use natural color for all my restorations, and dark walnut if the replaced veneer patch is a bit lighter than the original veneer.
 
stumptacular said:
im not gonna be able to wait until the end of february for the AR guy on ebay to get back from vacation to sell me this sealer lol.... it will drive me insane... do u have any you want to sell? lol

i would go straight to him and buy all the parts i need at once if he wasnt on vacation.... just my luck
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I ordered surrounds Saturday, they arrived this morning from vintage-ar.
 
GD70 said:
I ordered surrounds Saturday, they arrived this morning from vintage-ar.
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i was planning on hitting him up the first week of february when i have the cash to buy 1.grill fabric, 2.one knurled screw for the terminal its missing from....3.cloth surround sealant, 4. sealant putty for the drivers and 5.maybe the kits to replace the pots/caps
... im assuming parts express is the place to buy caps (and probably pots)? (i live 20 minutes away from their showroom and warehouse)
i saw a post somewhere that said Vintage AR discounts to forum members? lol
... i was hoping i could maybe bundle some items and get one shipping rate on ebay... if i had all the parts at my disposal i could have these finished in a few days
 
is there anything wrong with finishing / oiling the exterior of the cabinets before i take the woofers out to fix the caps/pots?
 
stumptacular said:
is there anything wrong with finishing / oiling the exterior of the cabinets before i take the woofers out to fix the caps/pots?
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Nope, except possibly denting-dinging a nicely redone cab. With the drivers pulled, the cab is lighter, easier to maneuver.

Save yourself money and get the L-Pade along with the caps from PE.
Grill cloth from 123 stitch.
Sealing putty from Home Depot or similar. Get air duct sealer. A block of it is about 2 bucks.
 
$106.01 worth of stuff here so far... would still need the putty, thumbscrew and cloth-surround sealant... restoring these isnt going to be cheap! but its worth it. i wonder how the value of restored / updated AR 2a's are compared to a set that hasnt been restored???
Parts Express Hardware.... (looking at GD70's AR 2a restoration thread for parts list... )
wksdja.jpg


grille cloth resource
fyj48.jpg
 
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GD70 said:
Save yourself money and get the L-Pade along with the caps from PE.
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Glenn can you describe to me what i need to know to swap out the old pots for the new L-pads? i read somewhere that the wiring is confusing... not the same on the old as the new... is there a diagram or resource for that ??

by the time i get all these parts i hope to understand what to do with them! lol :)
 
stumptacular said:
$106.01 worth of stuff here so far... would still need the putty, thumbscrew and cloth-surround sealant... restoring these isnt going to be cheap! but its worth it. i wonder how the value of restored / updated AR 2a's are compared to a set that hasnt been restored???
Parts Express Hardware.... (looking at GD70's AR 2a restoration thread for parts list... )
wksdja.jpg


grille cloth resource
fyj48.jpg
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The fabric for the grills, you only need one 27 X 36. It's enough to do both grills.

At this point, I wouldn't think about restored value. You're doing this for yourself, both as a learning experience, and to enjoy the sound.
 
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