With most tonearms, you'll need to get a new T-Bar (the part your tonearm mounts to). Merrill provided them. The main arm which didn't need replacing this part was the Mayware Formula unipivot arms. With the Mayware arm, you could hacksaw off the tonearm well (there is a photo of how on a AR specialist website). The original tonearm is a weak point on AR XA and XB turntables. Replacing with a quality arm really improves the AR XA and XB markedly. In fact, it's as good as a Thorens or an Ariston once done.

Its not strictly true to say you need a new sub-chassis if you want a new arm. I am aiming to fit an RB250 to an ailing XA, once I get a plinth made for it. The sub chassis needs cutting, top plate cutting and an armboard fabricating,but its not beyond the skills of a normal human being. If not already mentioned, check the vinyl nirvana website for inspiration.Good Morning,
I have come into some AR-XA TT's without tonearms. Any suggestions on what I could use in there place. Nothing too expensive with easy installation.
Thanks,
John.![]()
The only tonearms that meet both requirements are original AR tonearms. Every other option will require you to modify the T-bar and cut a larger opening in the top deck. For most of today's tonearms, you will also need to replace the suspension springs to compensate for additional tonearm weight or the frequency of the suspension will change.Good Morning,
Nothing too expensive with easy installation.
The only tonearms that meet both requirements are original AR tonearms. Every other option will require you to modify the T-bar and cut a larger opening in the top deck. For most of today's tonearms, you will also need to replace the suspension springs to compensate for additional tonearm weight or the frequency of the suspension will change.
I missed the springs! You can use either Sound of the Wood/Vinyl Nirvana type springs or keep an eye for Linn springs. As for the arm being the weak link, many owners use the TT with the original arm with great success. If you can get hold of a good AR XA/XB headshell, with emphasis on the good, then it might be worth going down the original route. An earlier poster said he had some parts, might be worth speaking to him. I also have some bits and bobs, if you ever need them in the future.

I've been running ADC XLMs (a II and a III) in original AR arms for a long time now and they work fine. The only cartridges the AR arm is ill-suited for are ultra-high-compliance types like the original XLM I that require an ultra-low effective mass arm and low-compliance types like most contemporary MCs that require high effective mass arms.I missed the springs! You can use either Sound of the Wood/Vinyl Nirvana type springs or keep an eye for Linn springs. As for the arm being the weak link, many owners use the TT with the original arm with great success.
I've been running ADC XLMs (a II and a III) in original AR arms for a long time now and they work fine. The only cartridges the AR arm is ill-suited for are ultra-high-compliance types like the original XLM I that require an ultra-low effective mass arm and low-compliance types like most contemporary MCs that require high effective mass arms.
Someone put an Excel file on DIY Audio that calculates tonearm effective mass based on the results you get from the HFNRR test record plus your cartridge's specs. I ran this and got an effective mass of about 6.4g using my XLMs. This is roughly comparable to the SME 3009 series II, which will give you an idea what sort of arm you'll need for any replacement to be a real upgrade over stock performance.

Here is my AR-XA with a newly installed Grace 707, which cost me around $90 from eBay. I had to order a Cardas DIN connector because the arm was missing the original cable. The arm was also missing the rest stanchion, so I fashioned a wood rest from Padauk.
The hardest part of the installation was drilling the hole in the top plate for the Grace. I had to buy a drill press, and a hole saw (2.125 inch) -- it took around 20 minutes to bore the hole through the steel deck, and the hole saw had to be frequently oiled to prevent overheating.
The arm base is spaced from the t-chassis by a 2" wood disk, which I bored from Padauk stock using the same hole saw for the top plate.
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