I have vintage separates and receivers and a soundbar and a modern 4K AVR. Everything has a place and a use.
View attachment 2113197
Ahhhhh, the sweet smell of reason.

I have vintage separates and receivers and a soundbar and a modern 4K AVR. Everything has a place and a use.
View attachment 2113197

You are nuking it like an audiophile. That’s not a sound bars intended purpose And that’s what a lot of people are saying on here, you have to take them for what they are.The main design headache is that "bar" implies a fairly short height limitation. Too short for a decent diameter (efficient) mid-range with a tweeter over it. Mounting the tweeter to the side causes horizontal lobing issues.
Obviously requires a subwoofer, although I can't see getting seamless integration unless crossed fairly high at 120-150Hz with fast slopes. We're certainly not trying to call 3" or 4" drivers "woofers", are we?
If for some reason I needed a sound bar, I'd make my own with coaxials. At a first glance, either the B&C 4CN36 or Dayton CX120-8. Although I'm sure the car audio world has many fine offerings to choose from.
I'd like to point out that Bose has completely exited the hifi market in favor of producing almost nothing but bluetooth speakers, sound bars, and headphones.
When did headphones become not Hi-Fi. I know my headphone set ups definitely areheadphones

You are nuking it like an audiophile.

That’s not a sound bars intended purpose
And that’s where a lot of people are saying on here you have to take them for what they are.
Well, yes?
A sound bar's intended purpose (to the consumer) is to sound better than the TV's speaker, which my approach probably would. A sound bar's purpose to the *manufacturer* is to make them money. I would prefer to trade a little of my labor for a better end result.
I'm just laying out the way I would get the best sound for the money, given the height limitation.
My point is that they can be *better* than what they are, even within the limitations. People don't have to accept popular solutions at high profit margins, especially with lesser performance.
Come to think of it, there's another dimension we don't talk about much with sound bars- depth. Deep enough and you could fit four 8" woofers downfiring to cover the range from 120 to 50Hz or so, to give a more solid octave of crossover to the sub. Maybe offset and opposed, two in the middle firing up with two on the ends firing down, to keep the thing from bouncing around...
But we are the only .0001% of the buying public that care.
When did headphones become not Hi-Fi. I know my headphone set ups definitely are![]()
Yeah, and that's more to the crux of this thread.
But they must care *some*, if they're buying a sound bar(system) at all. I guess the question is, if 99.9999% of the population are OK with setting the bar(!) so low, is there no hope for ever getting them interested in higher fi? I think our best bet is to invite others to hear our systems so they know what's possible, then offer them cost-effective paths to improvement.
Of course, I've been talking about stuffing $200 worth of *drivers alone* into a custom cabinet. Add three channels of amplification and crossovers, it would have to sell for at least $1000 to be commercially viable. Hmmm, I get your point.


I don't consider anything Blose ever made real hi-fi.
Im happy to get my entertainment
Us us us us us us us us us
...and
them, them, them, them, them, them, them, them
and, after all, we're only ordinary men....

Well, yes?
A sound bar's intended purpose (to the consumer) is to sound better than the TV's speaker, which my approach probably would. A sound bar's purpose to the *manufacturer* is to make them money. I would prefer to trade a little of my labor for a better end result.
I'm just laying out the way I would get the best sound for the money, given the height limitation.
My point is that they can be *better* than what they are, even within the limitations. People don't have to accept popular solutions at high profit margins, especially with lesser performance.
Come to think of it, there's another dimension we don't talk about much with sound bars- depth. Deep enough and you could fit four 8" woofers downfiring to cover the range from 120 to 50Hz or so, to give a more solid octave of crossover to the sub. Maybe offset and opposed, two in the middle firing up with two on the ends firing down, to keep the thing from bouncing around...