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AU-X1

Also the manual says they are 20w but those are only 10w

The picture is of a 10W part - but everything else says 20W.

If you can't persuade them to post to you, you'll have to find another supplier. I spent about an hour checking US based suppliers, while I knew that this UK based supplier has the exact replacement. Everyone else seems to stock the wire ended type or the aluminium bodied type, or the chassis mount types with 'quick-connect' spades, but not this type with PCB stand off lugs.
 
The picture is of a 10W part - but everything else says 20W.

If you can't persuade them to post to you, you'll have to find another supplier. I spent about an hour checking US based suppliers, while I knew that this UK based supplier has the exact replacement. Everyone else seems to stock the wire ended type or the aluminium bodied type, or the chassis mount types with 'quick-connect' spades, but not this type with PCB stand off lugs.
I found a 4.7 ohm 20w chassis mount at mouser but I'll keep searching
 
Just remember, this resistor doesn't get hot under normal circumstances, but must still be rated at 20 or 25 watts, as a substitute a 3.3Ω would be ok (if you absolutely cannot get a 3.9Ω), but not 4.7Ω I think. (In truth I don't know how much it matters with this particular amplifier except that there is a little latitude for the value of resistor - not much).
 
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Just remember, this resistor doesn't get hot under normal circumstances, but must still be rated at 20 or 25 watts, as a substitute a 3.3Ω would be ok (if you absolutely cannot get a 3.9Ω), but not 4.7Ω I think.
I was able to find a 25w 3.9 ohm one from NTE
 
Seems someone has used that resistor as a handle. That kind of rough handling would likely not be isolated to that board alone.

Take extra care to look for broken / cracked traces as you go.

Here is another source
http://in.element14.com/multicomp/m...hm-20w/dp/1737647?MER=MER-L53-L5IB-PD-ALT-PC&

Anyway...why all the fuss trying to find one online?

Why not just yank the same resistor off the other X1's power protection board.

It's free, you have it now, and will fit exactly.
 
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Seems someone has used that resistor as a handle. That kind of rough handling would likely not be isolated to that board alone.

Take extra care to look for broken / cracked traces as you go.

Here is another source
http://in.element14.com/multicomp/m...hm-20w/dp/1737647?MER=MER-L53-L5IB-PD-ALT-PC&

Anyway...why all the fuss trying to find one online?

Why not just yank the same resistor off the other X1's power protection board.

It's free, you have it now, and will fit exactly.
Not that easy someone put this 7.5 ohm resistor on top of the old one in the parts unit.And that relay looks just as bad as the other one.20160609_142125.jpg
 
Uh....Holy crap!
See that heatsink that's what salt water does to aluminum.The outdrive on an old boat I have is aluminum and it looks just like that ands its been in saltwater just about every salmon season since 89.
 
27 years of Salmon fishing! That's pretty freak'n impressive.

You deserve a fully functional X1.

Out of curiosity...how do you read your salmon stock?
Higher ...Lower...the same?

(I promise this will be my one and only fishing question in this thread.:bowdown:)
 
27 years of Salmon fishing! That's pretty freak'n impressive.

You deserve a fully functional X1.

Out of curiosity...how do you read your salmon stock?
Higher ...Lower...the same?

(I promise this will be my one and only fishing question in this thread.:bowdown:)
I've actually fished since I was a young kid with my dad and brothers and I also fished on the crab and salmon boats in Alaska 1993 was my last year crabbing in the bering sea.salmon stocks around the Columbia River used to be phenomenal and in recent years the Chinook have been returning in record numbers but the coho have declined
 
In order for me to use the adjustable transformer I need to pull and solder in 3 things from the parts board to the original 1979 models board (I decided to do this instead of switching the whole board out because the old board is in pretty bad shape)20160609_153329.jpg here is the 100v model board.20160612_125014.jpgand here is the adjustable voltage model board
 
Now THAT is interesting info for me, my donor X1's has the same extra parts on its PPB too.

The two triple-pronged molex parts can be effected by too much heat. The white plastic in which the prongs are seated may soften and release the prongs. I should still be usable though. So just be ready for the possibility of falling prongs.

Cleaning those prong type connectors is much easier off the board BTW. So have that metal polish ready to go too.
 
Now THAT is interesting info for me, my donor X1's has the same extra parts on its PPB too.

The two triple-pronged molex parts can be effected by too much heat. The white plastic in which the prongs are seated may soften and release the prongs. I should still be usable though. So just be ready for the possibility of falling prongs.

Cleaning those prong type connectors is much easier off the board BTW. So have that metal polish ready to go too.
Does your donor unit have the adjustable voltage transformer?
 
Here is the difference between the adjustable voltage transformer and the 100v transformer. 20160613_170223.jpg
 

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