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AU-X1

Ronito6 said:
I recommend doing this to the X1's phono stage cowling too.
Add thermal paste to the tops of those card's heat sinks, and make that phono stage cover part of the heat dissipation scheme.
Click to expand...

+1 Ron - mine had Silicone grease as the heat transfer agent for the phono boards when I got it. I cleaned this off for the reconditioning and deliberately did not replace the compound, and I have been monitoring the heat of that cover (with the 'mark one hand') for some time. A couple of days ago I gave it the treatment by adding proper white heatsink compound to the heatsinks of the 4 phono amplifiers - that top plate gets significantly hotter (again according to my 'mark one hand'), as perhaps would be expected. :)
 
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While working on f-2775 I found that I need to order a few more parts and some of those ceramic standoffs as well.I did get f-2770-71 and f-2917-18 recapped with new trimmers and when I was done with those I decided to pull the power supply boards out of both units to see how hard it would be to incorporate the adjustable voltage plug into the 100v model turns out it should be simple as long as this transformer is still good.20160609_152606.jpg
 
Should be a Class A result then. :thumbsup:

Bead blasting...how will you protect / seal off the transformer innards, wiring, and wiring connectors from contamination?

Rather fascinated how this part will go.
 
Ronito6 said:
Should be a Class A result then. :thumbsup:

Bead blasting...how will you protect / seal off the transformer innards, wiring, and wiring connectors from contamination?

Rather fascinated how this part will go.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna make a plate out of aluminum and bolt it on with the wires sealed under it before I blast it.
 
Willy6 said:
Not exactly sure what I have here there are no numbers on these outputs.View attachment 745160
Click to expand...

I guess that proves someone else was in there previously.

The position of output transistors is the same on both drivers.

Hopefully you've been keeping digital pictures of the the work as you have progressed. BUT if you Google image search Sansui AU-X1 a pic of the original outputs and their original placement should come up right away.

Of course the service manual shows where they go too.
 
Ronito6 said:
I guess that proves someone else was in there previously.

The position of output transistors is the same on both drivers.

Hopefully you've been keeping digital pictures of the the work as you have progressed. BUT if you Google image search Sansui AU-X1 a pic of the original outputs and their original placement should come up right away.

Of course the service manual shows where they go too.
Click to expand...
Yes I take lots of pics I just haven't posted all of them
 
Willy6 said:
Yes I take lots of pics I just haven't posted all of them
Click to expand...
I also put my color coded marks on things to distinguish what they are and where they went.A spot of my wife's different colors of fingernail polish here and there and then noted in my little note pad as npn-pnp and where they were placed as a,b,c ect...
 
Willy6 said:
I also put my color coded marks on things to distinguish what they are and where they went.A spot of my wife's different colors of fingernail polish here and there and then noted in my little note pad as npn-pnp and where they were placed as a,b,c ect...
Click to expand...
The reason I haven't posted every pic of completed work is they're pretty much copy's of Hyperion's work.He deserves the credit not me.
 
The soft start resistor you shouldn't need to replace unless it's blown, measure it, it should be ~3.9Ω the exact value is not very important.

For the relay, I don't know the correct replacement, I didn't replace mine - I have a feeling Harold replaced his, and probably documented it in his thread.

I think it might be an Omron 'LY' series relay (as distinct from the commonly replaced 'MY' series), the numbers on the transparent cover are the key to finding the right replacement.
 
Ignore the cement resistor, very small chance that it is bad.

Test it for peace of mind if you like.

I think this (the link below) is the relay I bought, but mind the pins and make sure you buy the through hole version. It's very near to the same versions used by Amp8.

Buy 3 if you do get them. There are two of those on the speaker PCB too.

http://www.mouser.jp/_/?Keyword=HL2-HP-DC24V-F

HOWEVER the relay may be ok. Just assume it is and press on to other stuff.

Less is more in a job this big.

Remember what I said about up to 3 more operations.

The less you mess with, the less worry of if you did it right. Foreward ho!
 
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Hyperion said:
The soft start resistor you shouldn't need to replace unless it's blown, measure it, it should be ~3.9Ω the exact value is not very important.

For the relay, I don't know the correct replacement, I didn't replace mine - I have a feeling Harold replaced his, and probably documented it in his thread.

I think it might be an Omron 'LY' series relay (as distinct from the commonly replaced 'MY' series), the numbers on the transparent cover are the key to finding the right replacement.
Click to expand...
This resistor looks shot here's a better pic20160611_051000.jpg
 
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