AU-X1

[Ronito6]

I don't see why there would be a difference in the power switch between the different voltage models. The transformer should draw the same number of input watts regardless of input voltage. The input amperage for the 100v model would be higher than a 240v model. Most of the export models were multi voltage and the input power came through the same switch regardless of voltage setting.

If there is a difference in the power switch it's more likely a production change for cost, variability or cosmetics.

- Pete

There is a difference.

The 230v (or 240v) version of the X1 incorporated a fuse between mains and the power switch, (or is that a voltage options switch on the back...not certain) the North American and Japanese versions did not have a fuse there nor a multi-voltage option.

I think the addition of that fuse required the need for a power switch with twice the contacts.

But Kale knows better than I, the if and the why. (I'm busting rhymes here.)

EDIT: Kale says, "That is the cover of a voltage selector for setting mains voltage
(100 - 120 - 220 - 240 V)"

Seems the Europe / 240v version is the best version.
It's happy anywhere.

 

[craggd]

I'd go with a step down. I purchased a Sanyo TSD-N11LU (1500w) for my AU- Alpfha 907 Limited on the Bay for less than $100 and it works great.

 

[Willy6]

I'd go with a step down. I purchased a Sanyo TSD-N11LU (1500w) for my AU- Alpfha 907 Limited on the Bay for less than $100 and it works great.

Thought about that to amazon $36.95 but I have an old parts unit to convert it if I get ambitious .

 

[Kale]

There is a difference.

The 230v (or 240v) version of the X1 incorporated a fuse between mains and the power switch, (or is that a voltage options switch on the back...not certain) the North American and Japanese versions did not have a fuse there nor a multi-voltage option.

I think the addition of that fuse required the need for a power switch with twice the contacts.

But Kale knows better than I, the if and the why. (I'm busting rhymes here.)

EDIT: Kale says, "That is the cover of a voltage selector for setting mains voltage
(100 - 120 - 220 - 240 V)"

Seems the Europe / 240v version is the best version.
It's happy anywhere.

Here you can see it from the other side:



About power switch... I have seen several AUX1 with burned contacts on power switch. Stock power switch has only one NO contact, so I have the same NOS power switch as Sansui had, but with two NO contacts, and I decided to connect them parallel to get better current performance of that power switch.

 

[Willy6]

There is a difference.

The 230v (or 240v) version of the X1 incorporated a fuse between mains and the power switch, (or is that a voltage options switch on the back...not certain) the North American and Japanese versions did not have a fuse there nor a multi-voltage option.

I think the addition of that fuse required the need for a power switch with twice the contacts.

But Kale knows better than I, the if and the why. (I'm busting rhymes here.)

EDIT: Kale says, "That is the cover of a voltage selector for setting mains voltage
(100 - 120 - 220 - 240 V)"

Seems the Europe / 240v version is the best version.
It's happy anywhere.

The 1978 model has the one that you can select which voltage you need.

 

[JOMARK911]

No Willy , the voltage selector was present at the general export and EU models only. The other models were 120v for usa and Canada and 100v for japan.It didn't have anything to do with the year.
Also there was not 230v , just European or as I said general export 120-220-240. 240v was for England. The rest of Europe had 220v at the time.
Now the whole Europe is 230v fixed , since 1998 I think.

 

[Willy6]

No Willy , the voltage selector was present at the general export and EU models only. The other models were 120v for usa and Canada and 100v for japan.It didn't have anything to do with the year.
Also there was not 230v , just European or as I said general export 120-220-240. 240v was for England. The rest of Europe had 220v at the time.
Now the whole Europe is 230v fixed , since 1998 I think.

I meant my 1978 model has that selector on it but my 1979 model does not and it is 100v only.

 

[JOMARK911]

Oh ok then.

 

[Ronito6]

The 1978 model has the one that you can select which voltage you need.

That is a feature worth keeping if you can.

I wish mine had the option.

 

[craggd]

Thought about that to amazon $36.95 but I have an old parts unit to convert it if I get ambitious .

If you go the step down route do not buy a cheap Chinese one. Went that route and it was measured off by 50% out of the box, go for a quality unit like the Sanyo.

 

[Willy6]

If you go the step down route do not buy a cheap Chinese one. Went that route and it was measured off by 50% out of the box, go for a quality unit like the Sanyo.

Ok

 

[Willy6]

That is a feature worth keeping if you can.

I wish mine had the option.

I just got home from Alaska and ordered a bunch of stuff from mouser.here is some pics of the power supply boards on the 78 and 79 models the 78 has the adjustable voltage plug.I think I might try to switch that whole board with the 79 one.

 

[Ronito6]

Wow. All that extra wiring on the voltage adjustable version will certainly add some bench hours.

In for a penny, in for a pound...I guess.

 

[Willy6]

Wow. All that extra wiring on the voltage adjustable version will certainly add some bench hours.

In for a penny, in for a pound...I guess.

I was looking at it today and a bunch of the wires that are plugged into the lower left side of the 79 are soldered on to the adjustable plug of the 78. (Lower left of my pics)

 

[Willy6]

I was looking at it today and a bunch of the wires that are plugged into the lower left side of the 79 are soldered on to the adjustable plug of the 78. (Lower left of my pics)

I mean lower right

 

[Willy6]

I mean lower right

My other left.

 

[Willy6]

Will these little tiny ceramic capacitors work in place of those bigger black flags?or did I get the wrong type?

 

[Ronito6]

Silver mica is the favorite replacement for "black flag" capacitors.

But I've seen a few other substitutes. For example Hyperion used c0g in his.
(Perhaps he will chime in as to why.)

If it is in the signal path, you will likely wish to make sure it is an audio grade component.

BUT to answer your question:
As long as it fits and all values are at least equal, those should do fine.

Anyone else?

 

[Willy6]

Silver mica is the favorite replacement for "black flag" capacitors.

But I've seen a few other substitutes. For example Hyperion used c0g in his.
(Perhaps he will chime in as to why.)

If it is in the signal path, you will likely wish to make sure it is an audio ranked component.

BUT to answer your question: As long as it fits and all values are at least equal, those will do fine.

The values are the same as the old ones but the voltages are higher for example one of the black flags is 10pf 125v but all I could find were 10pf 200v and they look microscopic compared to the originals.when I did my search at mouser I typed in the values and ceramic capacitors.I'll try another search for the silver mica kind.

 

[Ronito6]

The values are the same as the old ones but the voltages are higher for example one of the black flags is 10pf 125v but all I could find were 10pf 200v and they look microscopic compared to the originals.when I did my search at mouser I typed in the values and ceramic capacitors.I'll try another search for the silver mica kind.

500v silver mica are not uncommon as a replacement. 200v would serve fine.