There is some anecdotal evidence that current silver mica capacitors may be better sealed and hence able to withstand humidity and heat effects better. However, DC voltage may still be a problem; note that both Hewlett-Packard and Trimble Dayton Service Technologies specify in their respective engineering design guides that silver micas not be subject to DC voltage. Also, although no specific numbers are given, The Capacitor Handbook does state the following (pg. 97): "Silver ion migration can occur in only a few hours when silvered-mica capacitors are simultaneously exposed to DC voltage stresses, humidity, and high temperatures." Of course, YMMV, but caveat emptor!
There is some anecdotal evidence that current silver mica capacitors may be better sealed and hence able to withstand humidity and heat effects better. However, DC voltage may still be a problem; note that both Hewlett-Packard and Trimble Dayton Service Technologies specify in their respective engineering design guides that silver micas not be subject to DC voltage. Also, although no specific numbers are given, The Capacitor Handbook does state the following (pg. 97): "Silver ion migration can occur in only a few hours when silvered-mica capacitors are simultaneously exposed to DC voltage stresses, humidity, and high temperatures." Of course, YMMV, but caveat emptor!
Should I use the c0g/Np0 type of ceramic caps for those three above or does it matter?Not bad news. Harolda has the same, and he can advise you how you can make your X1 nice and stable.
Apparently the source of the X1's instability was discovered by a tech in Germany, Martin Kuehne. Harold discovered his work.
Anyway, Mr Kuehne found that the source of the X1's oscillation problem came from bad grounding (for lack of a better description) on the 2819 flat amp.
Harold had a PM or two with Mr. Kuehne and applied Mr. Kuehne's grounding modification to his X1's 2819 flat amp board.
It is illustrated in his thread on posting #155 here http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....-output-transistor-replacements.684619/page-8
But to save you some time...
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Should I use the c0g/Np0 type of ceramic caps for those three above or does it matter?
I'm talking abut the three used for the grounding to prevent oscillation.Seems switching "Black Flag" caps with C0G/NP0 is the most current way forward.
Does it matter? To me it would. Why bother with anything but what is agreed to be the best correct choice?
Hyperion and Leestereo seem to concur on the issue of C0G/NP0 being the better choice over Silver Mica, and have used C0G/NP0 caps in their respective restorations.
I did not. I went with Silver Mica.
But I now plan to remove them from DD / DC circuitry in the phono stage and (lordinheavengivemestregnth) driver boards.
Leestereo and Hyperion...do you have a good word here for Willy6?
I'm talking abut the three used for the grounding to prevent oscillation.
I would just use the same kind in the pics.
Is there any specific type of film cap I need?I have that capicitor hand book on order as i'm still trying to learn the various types and what they are used for and thanks again for all your help.Yep, use film capacitors - just as Harold and I have done.
Don't run away with the idea that ceramic capacitors are so good you can use them for anything - not the case - there are specific and best uses for all the dielectric types.
I still have 18 of them between the two amps that I haven't checked yet.I measured the current gain on the 6 outputs on the right side and they're all different.
PNP
HFE=63
HFE=44
HFE=53
NPN
HFE=39
HFE=47
HFE=68
Should I keep these or replace them with new ones?
I measured the current gain on the 6 outputs on the right side and they're all different.
PNP
HFE=63
HFE=44
HFE=53
NPN
HFE=39
HFE=47
HFE=68
Should I keep these or replace them with new ones?