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Audio Coupling Capacitors

MeathooK

New Member
Can somebody explain to me how to identify the audio coupling capacitors on my schematic (2250b)? I understand they block DC and pass AC current - but I have no idea how to identify them. Thanks!
 
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Incorrect the 2250b is a direct coupled output amp not capacitor coupled amp.

You will find them in the circuit path between the preamp and amp.
 
What value audio coupling cap is acceptable to replace w/ a metallized polyester stacked cap? 1uF and below (I've been reading lower values on here)? Or is 3.3uF acceptable as well..or should I just replace it with an electrolytic
 
I usually use films for 1uF and lower. Can't hurt to experiment with a 3.3uF film if you have the space to fit one. I'd just use a Silmic II though, for values over 1uF.
 
Hmmm, film caps instead of electrolytics as coupling caps. Interesting idea. Could be a real sound changer. Filing this tidbit away for future experimentation.
Thanks.
 
Are you suggesting that using an electrolytic in place of a film is acceptable too....?

A good film can be heard over a electrolytic in a correct application and in a system that is ready for the improvement.

I don't bother upgrading caps in my lloyds clock radio.....

jk


I guarantee that you won't hear a difference. Try an A-B test. I have, several times. Nothing.
 
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I spent weeks doing research -- reading tests & audio blogs – learning & searching for the optimal solution to improve the sound of my Denon DCM-380 CD changer.
A little history: I chose the DCM-380 after weeks of research, it met all my needs in terms of appearance, functionality and technology (Burr-Brown PCM1732 DACs). But the 380's sound from the analog output lacked a "certain something" -- lacked presence, soundstage, dynamics? The solution I settled on was replacing the 10uf 50v electrolytic capacitors in the analog output stage (also called DC blocking capacitors or coupling capacitors). I used 10uf 50v Elna Silmic RFS audio-grade electrolytics to replace the factory electrolytics <http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/RFS-50V100MG3%235/604-1119-ND/2171170>, and bypassed with 0.1uf 200v Sonicap Gen II audio capacitors soldered to the Elna pads on the trace side of the board <http://www.soniccraft.com/sonicap_gen_2.htm>. I replaced the caps on both input and output of the op amps, requiring 4 of each cap. The resulting sound at first was disappointing, but after 5 hours of playing it had opened up, closer to what I was after, and after 10 hours it was amazing -- the high-end had opened up, clear with no harshness -- mids were liquid without a hint of grain -- bass was full and tight. Excellent soundstage, plenty of detail, warm and life-like, perfectly balanced. I could listen all day without tiring. I could hear things in the music that I never knew were there before. Perfect. And it continues to sound better as time goes on, which I didn't think possible. My 1980 ESS AMT-1A bookshelf speakers never sounded so good.
Forget replacing the opamps as so many people do, that can turn into a nightmare requiring circuit mods, it may never be right. This capacitor replacement was all it took, at the very least it’s the place to start. My understanding is that the Elna Silmic RFS is arguably the best electrolytic for the application, and the Sonicap Gen II takes care of the problem that all electrolytics have at higher frequencies. The 0.1uf Sonicap Gen II is the most widely applied value for this bypass application, for bypassing 4.7uf or 10uf Elna Silmic RFS or Nichicon Muse ES electrolytics.
 
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