BuffaloBoy
Member
I recently acquired a Dual 1219 turntable. Now that I have it located where I want it, can someone guide me through the steps to properly balance the tonearm?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Balancing a Dual 1219 tonearm
- Thread starter BuffaloBoy
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Dual turntables use tonearms which work a bit differently than your average turntable. You've got the counterweight on the back, but also the vernier dial. To balance the arm, you set the vernier dial and anti-skate knob to 0, and turn the counterweight in increments until the arm 'floats' parallel to the platter. Once this is accomplished, set the vernier dial to the desired weight, and set the anti-skate to the same number on the proper scale (round = conical, oval = elliptical and everything else). A diagram outlining the process can be found on the late, great Joel Thorner's site, under the heading "'Vernier' type". Good luck!
-Adam
-Adam
There's also a "coarse" adjustment you might need to do before turning the counterweight. On the outside right of the tonearm behind the pivot there is a small thumbscrew. That can be loosened to slide the counterwight on its shaft to get close to a balanced arm (other settings at zero), and then fine tune by turning the actual weight. Not always required but sometimes.
See part 48 in this diagram:
https://goo.gl/images/dK9hFT
See part 48 in this diagram:
https://goo.gl/images/dK9hFT
Bubbalouie
Audiophilia Maximus
First, you need to balance the tonearm and cartridge by moving the counter weight back and forth until the tonearm is floating just above the tonearm rest.
Next, set the counter balance dial to zero.
Next, set the dial to the appropriate weight.
Set the antiskating to the same number.
The instruction manual also will explain how to do this as well. If you do not have one, go to Vinyl Engine and download a copy. You have to join first before you can download but it's free to join.
Next, set the counter balance dial to zero.
Next, set the dial to the appropriate weight.
Set the antiskating to the same number.
The instruction manual also will explain how to do this as well. If you do not have one, go to Vinyl Engine and download a copy. You have to join first before you can download but it's free to join.
BuffaloBoy
Member
Thank you all very much for the advice and recommendations. Using what people told me here and the instruction manual, I believe I have the tonearm balanced. Now I have a different problem. Nothing happens when I push "Start". I followed the instructions in the operating manual and I believe I put the operating switch in neutral. Do I have to do something to get it out of neutral? Help!
BuffaloBoy
Member
No, the turntable doesn't start if I move the tonearm towards the platter.
BuffaloBoy
Member
If I move the platter by hand the arm moves over to the record, descends and plays (it only plays as long as I am turning the platter by hand). When I lift the arm and keep turning the platter, the arm moves back to the arm rest, descends and the turntable shuts off.
sounds like your idler wheel is slipping. Lock down the tonearm, remove the c-clip holding the platter on, lift the platter and set aside, now check the idler wheel, and see if it moves with the linkage, then clean the rubber idler edge with some very fine sandpaper. Then clean the inside rim of the platter with iso, and carefully place the platter back onto the shaft(which should have a minor amount of grease on it), save the c-clip for later.
Now try start, you can leave the arm locked down, it's one way to reset the dual mechanism.
Assuming the platter now will start when you move the lever to start, unlock the tonearm, and enjoy.
However, your idler may be worn to far, or the linkage may be sticking, so if it doesn't start with the start button, you need someone to clean, lube, and adjust it.
Now try start, you can leave the arm locked down, it's one way to reset the dual mechanism.
Assuming the platter now will start when you move the lever to start, unlock the tonearm, and enjoy.
However, your idler may be worn to far, or the linkage may be sticking, so if it doesn't start with the start button, you need someone to clean, lube, and adjust it.
Are you sure the motor is getting power? Can you hear a whirring from the front left corner of the turntable after moving the tonearm towards the record and hearing the click? If you aren't hearing the whirring, I'd check to see if the outlet the turntable is plugged into is getting power; if so, I'd then check the wiring at the motor against the service manual. Another possibility is dried grease inside the switch which turns the motor on via the mechanism.
If you hear the whirring, the idler wheel likely isn't properly engaging the platter for some reason. I'm not sure what you mean by the 'operating switch' being 'in neutral'; the closest the 1219 has to a neutral setting is positioning the speed selector lever between two of the speeds. If said lever is pointing at a speed but the motor is running without spinning the platter, it may be an issue with the speed selector control itself. Good luck!
-Adam
If you hear the whirring, the idler wheel likely isn't properly engaging the platter for some reason. I'm not sure what you mean by the 'operating switch' being 'in neutral'; the closest the 1219 has to a neutral setting is positioning the speed selector lever between two of the speeds. If said lever is pointing at a speed but the motor is running without spinning the platter, it may be an issue with the speed selector control itself. Good luck!
-Adam
I strongly suggest you read over and try to perform the maintenance in this guide.
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=103&pos=0
Dual turntables can be great but they are complex and typically need a lot of TLC.
Also get the owners manual and service manual. They describe a lot of what has been said in this thread. Some of the descriptions of the counterweight adjustments mentioned earlier are WRONG when applied to a Dual.
http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=103&pos=0
Dual turntables can be great but they are complex and typically need a lot of TLC.
Also get the owners manual and service manual. They describe a lot of what has been said in this thread. Some of the descriptions of the counterweight adjustments mentioned earlier are WRONG when applied to a Dual.
likebike23
Addicted Member
I got a 1218 a little while back and it wouldn't do anything. It turned out that the mechanicals underneath we're all gummed up. Someone tried to force the start lever and ended up breaking it so that it doesn't grip the shaft, the lever just spins on the shaft it's attached to.
The specific problem was that the linkage that pivots in it's center and controls the power switch was not pivoting due to dried up lube on the pivot shaft and bushing. I ended up disassembling and regreasing the whole thing which is what everyone recommends. I moved the good size selector lever over to the start/stop position. It works fine now, but can't move the size selector unless I do it from underneath by hand. I need to get another lever that isn't broken.
The specific problem was that the linkage that pivots in it's center and controls the power switch was not pivoting due to dried up lube on the pivot shaft and bushing. I ended up disassembling and regreasing the whole thing which is what everyone recommends. I moved the good size selector lever over to the start/stop position. It works fine now, but can't move the size selector unless I do it from underneath by hand. I need to get another lever that isn't broken.
^^Exactly. That's a very common issue and the right approach, the cleaning that is. Replacement parts can be hard to find.
Other common faults due to gummed up grease are the speed change selector, idler arm and the return slider arm. Be very careful with the single/multi play lever. It breaks earily and becomes a complex repair if forced. And of course the infamous steurpimpel...
After working out the mechanical kinks, the signal path can be tricky too. This area usual involves cleaning head shell pins and contacts of tarnish or corrosion and potentially the muting switch too.
Other common faults due to gummed up grease are the speed change selector, idler arm and the return slider arm. Be very careful with the single/multi play lever. It breaks earily and becomes a complex repair if forced. And of course the infamous steurpimpel...
After working out the mechanical kinks, the signal path can be tricky too. This area usual involves cleaning head shell pins and contacts of tarnish or corrosion and potentially the muting switch too.
