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Best caps for crossover rebuild

shelbygt

Active Member
I'm re-capping my Sansui SP-300's. This is my first re=capping job and I'd like to do it right the first time. Values are:
2 each 24uF nonpolar
2 each 10uF nonpolar
2 each 5uF nonpolar
2 each 2uF nonpolar
 
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The original crossover used non-polarized electrolytic caps. Those caps should be replaced with newer modern caps. The capacitance values of the new caps should match the original as closely as possible. Caps can be wired in parallel to reach the proper value (capacitance value is added when wired in parallel). The voltage rating should be the same or higher than the original caps.

As for the type of caps, that is a divisive topic here. I base the type of caps used on the value of the speakers. Cheap (less valuable) speakers get cheap caps. Better speakers get better caps. It is up to you to decide how valuable your speakers are.

The least inexpensive option is to replace the caps with the same type - generally electrolytic. I only do this for cheap speakers not worth spending money on because of the cost and the poor suitability of electrolytic caps for crossovers.

The next option is to recap with film caps. If the speaker is worth it I do this for all caps, even the larger ones. Film caps range from the inexpensive Dayton metalized poly caps up to caps costing >$100 each. I like to use Audyn Q4 caps when available in the proper size.

Decide how much you want to spend and shop accordingly.
 
The original crossover used non-polarized electrolytic caps. Those caps should be replaced with newer modern caps. The capacitance values of the new caps should match the original as closely as possible. Caps can be wired in parallel to reach the proper value (capacitance value is added when wired in parallel). The voltage rating should be the same or higher than the original caps.

As for the type of caps, that is a divisive topic here. I base the type of caps used on the value of the speakers. Cheap (less valuable) speakers get cheap caps. Better speakers get better caps. It is up to you to decide how valuable your speakers are.

The least inexpensive option is to replace the caps with the same type - generally electrolytic. I only do this for cheap speakers not worth spending money on because of the cost and the poor suitability of electrolytic caps for crossovers.

The next option is to recap with film caps. If the speaker is worth it I do this for all caps, even the larger ones. Film caps range from the inexpensive Dayton metalized poly caps up to caps costing >$100 each. I like to use Audyn Q4 caps when available in the proper size.

Decide how much you want to spend and shop accordingly.
I use the Audyn caps when I find them in the available values. I've used Daytons also. The cheaper Jansen film caps P.E. sells sound good too. The cap values the OP listed don't look like anything gard to find.
 
The original crossover used non-polarized electrolytic caps. Those caps should be replaced with newer modern caps. The capacitance values of the new caps should match the original as closely as possible. Caps can be wired in parallel to reach the proper value (capacitance value is added when wired in parallel). The voltage rating should be the same or higher than the original caps.

As for the type of caps, that is a divisive topic here. I base the type of caps used on the value of the speakers. Cheap (less valuable) speakers get cheap caps. Better speakers get better caps. It is up to you to decide how valuable your speakers are.

The least inexpensive option is to replace the caps with the same type - generally electrolytic. I only do this for cheap speakers not worth spending money on because of the cost and the poor suitability of electrolytic caps for crossovers.

The next option is to recap with film caps. If the speaker is worth it I do this for all caps, even the larger ones. Film caps range from the inexpensive Dayton metalized poly caps up to caps costing >$100 each. I like to use Audyn Q4 caps when available in the proper size.

Decide how much you want to spend and shop accordingly.

These are some of my favorite speakers, so I don't mind spending the extra bread. I'm seeing Audyn. I've heard Sonicap is good, too?
 
I've used Jantzen cross-cap and superior z cap, Audyn Q4, Cornell Dubilier 930/940, Mundorf, Some big 40uf Nichicon films that I can't recall the name of, and Clarity PX and CSA.

The only ones I disliked were the Clarity. They were just a bit too dull and rolled off in the speakers I tried them in. Too polite and smooth.

Only other thing I'll add, and I'm sure someone will chime in with "resistors make no difference", I've found that they do, and not always for the better: I tried the Solen Anachrohmic mil-spec resistors in a set of speakers and they came back out immediately. Etched, harsh and glassy. Horrible. Swapped in Jantzen MOX and they sounded wonderful.
 
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And Clrarity CSA caps brought a pair of my speakers to a higher level, though I will note these speakers were somewhat shrill, mostly noticeable with vocals of younger female singers, with other caps I tried including Sonicap. Best choice may be speaker dependent. YMMV.
 
And Clrarity CSA caps brought a pair of my speakers to a higher level, though I will note these speakers were somewhat shrill, mostly noticeable with vocals of younger female singers, with other caps I tried including Sonicap. YMMV.

There you have it! I do think they would be an excellent option for speakers that need to be tamed a bit. They were detailed enough, just too dark for the speakers I've tried them in.
 
For some reason the 2uF cap seems to be a little tougher to find if I don’t want to mix brands. There are plenty of 2.2uF. I was going with Audyn Q4. I know you can run them in parallel to get the desired capacitance. I’m thinking running in series wouldn’t work well? Thoughts? 40 years ago I was better with this stuff but I haven’t played with it in awhile.
These speakers have a 1968/1969 build so I doubt tolerances were all that critical. All the horns sure sound great with tubes.
 
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For some reason the 2uF cap seems to be a little tougher to find. I know you can run them in parallel to get the desired capacitance. I’m thinking running in series wouldn’t work well? Thoughts? 40 years ago I was better with this stuff but I haven’t played with it in awhile.

Partsconnexion has Jantzen Cross-Cap in a 2uf. It's also no problem at all to just parallel two 1uf. Parallel, not series.
 
The only ones I disliked were the Clarity. They were just a bit too dull and rolled off in the speakers I tried them in. Too polite and smooth...

My findings exactly. Spacious, but dark. Withdrawn in the upper mids/lower treble. So much so, due to missing overtones, the human voice was hard to understand. I had to add film and foil bypass caps, to even out the balance.

Still, I did like the ClarityCaps. Enough to where I'm using CSA's and Mundorf Supreme EVO Oils together, on my next project.
 
I used Dayton caps in my CS-88 speakers and I am happy with them. Now I am going to share my experience and opinion, and I have read on here that others disagree. When I first listened to them they sounded like crap, but I left them on playing for over 24 hours non-stop and every time I went into the room they sounded better and better. Some people say that is just your ears adjusting to the sound, but I respectfully disagree. I didn’t stay in the room the whole time and every time I checked the speakers sounded better.
In fact I the same thing happened with a second set of speakers that I just finished recapping.
 
I used Dayton caps in my CS-88 speakers and I am happy with them. Now I am going to share my experience and opinion, and I have read on here that others disagree. When I first listened to them they sounded like crap, but I left them on playing for over 24 hours non-stop and every time I went into the room they sounded better and better. Some people say that is just your ears adjusting to the sound, but I respectfully disagree. I didn’t stay in the room the whole time and every time I checked the speakers sounded better.
In fact I the same thing happened with a second set of speakers that I just finished recapping.

I fully believe you and emphatically agree with you.

I would posit that most folks who disagree haven't done much experimenting with crossovers. Unfortunately they tend to be uncomfortable with viewpoints that aren't their own, and, presumably due to their own insecurities, feel inclined to insult and belittle those of us that have first hand experience with the phenomenon of burn-in/break-in.
 
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