Calling All Motorola Consoles!!!
- Thread starter relaximus
- Start date
Hey all, brand new here. Just picked up a Motorola SK80CWA that needs a needle. Can anyone point me in the direction of a reputable source and maybe give me a model number? This thing is gorgeous and sounds great!
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Dswankey
Lunatic Member
Congrats on your new acquisition, This is a great thread which I assume you've already read through. There's a couple of sources mentioned for needle replacement.
Lift the tone arm up and if your vision is good there should be some identifier on the cartridge. If not just remove the cart and look closely.
Try here once you figure out the model #
https://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/
https://www.turntableneedles.com/Find_Turntable_Record_Player_Stylus_by_Model_Number_for_MOTOROLA
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generaltso
New Member
Hello everyone! Is anyone able to identify this Motorola console? It looks similar to an SK28 with similar brass tipped feet, but with only one brass rail detail, and different 60s ish stereo in it. Badging is on the lower left speaker No reverb. Im not with it so I cant provide amp chassis
MotorolaNut
New Member
SK47M. 1961 version of the SK28. Different tuner and different version of the VM record changer. Different metal trimming on the front as well.Hello everyone! Is anyone able to identify this Motorola console? It looks similar to an SK28 with similar brass tipped feet, but with only one brass rail detail, and different 60s ish stereo in it. Badging is on the lower left speaker No reverb. Im not with it so I cant provide amp chassis
century tek
Addicted Member
Reverb on those is called Vibrasonic. I think that one has Vibrasonic. 
generaltso
New Member
Does anyone have an opinion in the sound quality of the 3 channel consoles versions between the 6v6 vs 6bq5 vs 6bm8/6bq5 ?
endersshadow
Member
Does anyone know the part number for the Vibrasonic faceplate in this picture? I'm trying to track one down and struggling to find out what the part number is, or what units it was in so I can setup some ebay searches and whatnot.....
MotorolaNut
New Member
Looks like a lower end 3-channel with a 12" woofer. Judging by the style of control knobs it's about a 1960-61 model.
century tek
Addicted Member
Yup, it's 3 channel but without seeing an actual schematic or rear pics, it's only a guess as to what amp it uses. I have seen the lower end Motorola consoles which use the 6BM8 amplifier. I have also seen them use the series string hot chassis amp but I think most of those came in the suitcase style.
If it's a gamble pick up, I hope you get the 6BM8 version!
If it's a gamble pick up, I hope you get the 6BM8 version!
MotorolaNut
New Member
Personally, I would hold off and wait for a better example to come along. You can still find late 50s to early 60s Motorola consoles really cheap out in the wild. Here's my current project - a 1960 SK53W. I got it for a couple hundred. Just be patient - when the right one shows up. You'll just jump on it.
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lhomme61
New Member
What's the difference between your SK53W and my SK52W? Mine only lacks FM Stereo.
MotorolaNut
New Member
Oops, sorry. Typo. I actually have the SK52. I believe the SK53 has the same amp and tuner but in an American provincial cabinet.
generaltso
New Member
Hi All, Im working on restoring a SK57W (Cantonesian). The amp chassis is a HS-839A. I need help with C17 which is a can located here:
The parts lists describes it as:
Here is a picture:
Would this part be a suitable replacement? I am confused by the designation above after the semicolon the 100mf/25V and this part is 40-40-40 rather than 30-40-40
I am super intimidated by this replacement in either case scenario - leaving it and placing new components underneath and/or replacing it with a new can, but after a long visit at the vintage stereo shop here today he thinks I can do it - they are booked out through the end of the year with repairs.
Thanks in advance for any insight you may have.
The parts lists describes it as:
Here is a picture:
Would this part be a suitable replacement? I am confused by the designation above after the semicolon the 100mf/25V and this part is 40-40-40 rather than 30-40-40
I am super intimidated by this replacement in either case scenario - leaving it and placing new components underneath and/or replacing it with a new can, but after a long visit at the vintage stereo shop here today he thinks I can do it - they are booked out through the end of the year with repairs.
Thanks in advance for any insight you may have.
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cademan
Lunatic Member
Hi FYI, uF and mfd are the same.
If you look at the engraving on the side of the original can capacitor, you will see that it has 4 individual capacitors inside that one can. It should look something like this:
30uF @ 400 Volts DC
40uF @ 400 V
40uF @ 400 V
100uF @ 25 V
If you get the new can you have showing, it should work fine for you however you are going to need an extra individual capacitor which is 100uF @ 25 Volts. This is the cathode bypass capacitor.
In the new can, the first 40uF is just taking the place of the 30uF in the old can. Tolerances are something like 10-20 percent so you should be fine. You are also going to need a 100uF @ 25 V capacitor
If you have the real estate under the chassis, you can also put in four individual capacitors to replace that can capacitor. Whichever is cheapest and/or easier.
The original operates on 400 Volts but the new can says it is good for 525 Volts. You can always go higher on the voltage but never lower than the original.
If you look at the engraving on the side of the original can capacitor, you will see that it has 4 individual capacitors inside that one can. It should look something like this:
30uF @ 400 Volts DC
40uF @ 400 V
40uF @ 400 V
100uF @ 25 V
If you get the new can you have showing, it should work fine for you however you are going to need an extra individual capacitor which is 100uF @ 25 Volts. This is the cathode bypass capacitor.
In the new can, the first 40uF is just taking the place of the 30uF in the old can. Tolerances are something like 10-20 percent so you should be fine. You are also going to need a 100uF @ 25 V capacitor
If you have the real estate under the chassis, you can also put in four individual capacitors to replace that can capacitor. Whichever is cheapest and/or easier.
The original operates on 400 Volts but the new can says it is good for 525 Volts. You can always go higher on the voltage but never lower than the original.
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generaltso
New Member
Cademan thank you
That 4th number 100uf.25v is the one thats kicking me in the gut. They have a 40 40 30 30 in 450v but no matter what... I guess Im going to have to add something to the bottom to make it right. Which approach would you consider easier? Is there a video tutorial out there somewhere that could help me learn this method? If I got the one with 4 tabs would I just add the additional capacitance in line there with everything currently connecting to that tab at the end of that cap? ie additional cap to lug 4, then wires originally going to that lug 4 attached to other lead?
with an additional 70mf on the 4 lug?
That 4th number 100uf.25v is the one thats kicking me in the gut. They have a 40 40 30 30 in 450v but no matter what... I guess Im going to have to add something to the bottom to make it right. Which approach would you consider easier? Is there a video tutorial out there somewhere that could help me learn this method? If I got the one with 4 tabs would I just add the additional capacitance in line there with everything currently connecting to that tab at the end of that cap? ie additional cap to lug 4, then wires originally going to that lug 4 attached to other lead?
with an additional 70mf on the 4 lug?
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