generaltso
New Member
So one lead grounded, then everything that was originally on that lug to the other lead?
Calling All Motorola Consoles!!!
- Thread starter relaximus
- Start date
So one lead grounded, then everything that was originally on that lug to the other lead?
markmcmuz
Well-Known Member
Cans can be grounded through the shell or have a ground lug. If you look at the can from underneath you will find wires going to each lug. Those are typically the positive connections. There could be one that is wired to the chassis-that would be ground OR the ground for all caps in the can are grounded via the tabs that connect the can to the case. One or two of those tabs would be soldered to the case. So ground for all caps is the metal shell that is in turn soldered to the case. You can determine all that with a ohmeter if you are unsure and use the schematic.
markmcmuz
Well-Known Member
Yes. It is a polarized cap so make sure the negative side goes to ground.
generaltso
New Member
thank you everyone. i should prob make my own thread but i'm gonna ask one more. what is a good replacement for the crossover caps? is there a favorite? i have the 15" bass 2x8s 2x5s and a 6 on the vibrasonic. in general i like clean sound i guess described as east coast sound as i listen to EPI speakers, and listen to mostly 70s stuff (fleetwood mac, ELO, old funk) with the occasional herb alpert thrown in there. there isnt much out there at this low voltage. i found a SPRAGUE AXIAL 5uf/50V
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cademan
Lunatic Member
When you replace the original can capacitor with the new CP can that you have showing, you will only be using one of the 40uF. The other will remain blank. The new one will go in the place of the old one. If you use individual capacitors and want to leave the old one in place just for looks, then you need to make sure that the old can is totally disconnected from the new one's.
Honestly, if you are new to electronics, I would either read up about capacitance and capacitors in circuit before you go any further or let someone else teach you or work on it.
Honestly, if you are new to electronics, I would either read up about capacitance and capacitors in circuit before you go any further or let someone else teach you or work on it.
generaltso
New Member
As an update I brought the amp to a shop...it was way too much for me.
The first owner made modifications probably sometime in the 70s to the changer with a magnetic cart and in the cabinet below is an phono preamp. The needle is completely hosed. In a discussion about replacement needles, we realized it likely needs something with heavy tracking force due to weight of the arm AND I found some paperwork from radiomuseum that it wants 5g for the trip mechanism to work. Can anyone who has restored their changer confirm or deny that? I'm trying to pick the right stylus the first time as I don't have a lot of money to burn to try a lighter tracking stylus if it wont work. Can I get away with a conical rated for 2 - 4g ?? 1.5 - 3.0 g ??
The first owner made modifications probably sometime in the 70s to the changer with a magnetic cart and in the cabinet below is an phono preamp. The needle is completely hosed. In a discussion about replacement needles, we realized it likely needs something with heavy tracking force due to weight of the arm AND I found some paperwork from radiomuseum that it wants 5g for the trip mechanism to work. Can anyone who has restored their changer confirm or deny that? I'm trying to pick the right stylus the first time as I don't have a lot of money to burn to try a lighter tracking stylus if it wont work. Can I get away with a conical rated for 2 - 4g ?? 1.5 - 3.0 g ??
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I am using a Stanton 505.V3 in a situation similar to yours. I track it around 4-5 grams on a Collaro table.
This is in a Motorola SK40 (low power 3 channel). It is a bit on the bassy side, but okay when bass control is dialed down. I use a (cheap) solid state phono preamp.
It is an improvement over the ceramic cart that was in there originally, but it is not (expected to be) high fidelity.
Have you tried getting a replacement needle for the cart that is in there?
This is in a Motorola SK40 (low power 3 channel). It is a bit on the bassy side, but okay when bass control is dialed down. I use a (cheap) solid state phono preamp.
It is an improvement over the ceramic cart that was in there originally, but it is not (expected to be) high fidelity.
Have you tried getting a replacement needle for the cart that is in there?
generaltso
New Member
That is what Im trying to do.. The needle (SURE / Realistic 5x) is an eliptical and when I started going down that road, it was brought up that I likely would not be able to align an elliptical properly. Its lower compliance .0004 x .0007 and heavier tracking at 1.75-2.25 grams. I know he was listening records on it. I have no idea if he was using it at heavier tracking like 4g, and I cant figure that out because the needle itself is broken and bent so I cant get a good measurement.
Gary answered my question this morning that provided I service it correctly it would likely be okay at 4g. He suggested a 6mil conical that will track 2-4 the SHURE 70B / 768-D6, and Im fingers crossed that it will fit without me having to file the cartridge down.
I am curious if you are using a conical or elliptical, and if elliptical did you need to do any sort of alignment?
He has an old RadioShack preamp in there as well as some wire modifications - there is a standard outlet installed on the right wall of the center cabinet that he had the preamp plugged into - its getting its power from the MPX power supply.. I haven't gotten too far into all that because I have not completed servicing the changer yet. So no idea if this was part of the original modification to add MPX or his doing to accomodate the preamp.
generaltso
New Member
Hello all. I got the amp completely recapped. Finished the changer yesterday and got it back in the cabinet. I ended up getting an overpowered 4.7 crossover cap that was on a huge sale and used an insulated wire harness clip from an auto parts store to hold them securely since I couldn't find something similar to original.
I asked in the speaker forum, but thought one of you guys may know - anyone know the purpose/function of this 7.5 ohm resistor that goes across the mid terminals? the center channel woofer has the same.
Here's some Herb Alpert after I got the changer back in yesterday
I asked in the speaker forum, but thought one of you guys may know - anyone know the purpose/function of this 7.5 ohm resistor that goes across the mid terminals? the center channel woofer has the same.
Here's some Herb Alpert after I got the changer back in yesterday
endersshadow
Member
Does anyone have a copy of the Sam’s Photofact for the HS-977b tuner?
I need to rewire the tuner and it’s been a PAIN trying to figure out how to do so.
The Photofact in question is: 631-12
I need to rewire the tuner and it’s been a PAIN trying to figure out how to do so.
The Photofact in question is: 631-12
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I had asked if he was still loving his SK17W as I was looking to purchase one just like it. I decided to go ahead and buy it today so I retracted the question. I was trying to send ToxicTele a private message but was unsuccessful. Obviously I'm a newb here and will need to learn the ropes. Thanks for checking on me, I'm sure to have questions and comments as this baby needs work.
My bad for not checking my inbox,,and Welcome to AudioKarma Nitrox13. To answer your question, my SK17 resides in one of my music rooms and only see's occasional use. As far as the unit itself,,very good tuner and amplifier. Your unit has the desirable HS711 amplifier, very beefy transformers. Schematic attached.
. Gonna need a recap at minimum. Any recommendations on caps or anything else is appreciated
Start with the amplifier, simple orange drops for the coupling caps. The can you can either replace ($$) or use separate caps under the chassis (values are listed in the schematic). Check the resistors to make sure none are open. Fairly straight forward. That is a nice Drexel unit you have, neon green eye tube. Get the amp working properly then see if tuner gets reception.
Great advice I appreciate it. The tuner has an obvious issue which is the indicator doesn't line up with the tuner section, it's way off. It's so far off the indicator only travels from 106 to 108 FM at which point the tuner has run out of travel. At approximately 106 FM the gang fins are fully extended then as the indicator hits the end of travel at 108 the fins are heading back down or in. I'm about to remove it hoping for an easy fix. Thanks!
Skerrvydog
New Member
Hey y'all, just thought id share my Moto SK11 from about '59. Scooped it up outa south Philly for $35. Original turntable was gone but one turned up local on ebay for $25 so i grabbed that too! Cleaned and lubed and had to get a new cartridge and will apparently have to replace the idler wheel, it doesnt like to spin 78,s it bogs down on one spot on the platter. And Yes i have the legs, it's just on the dolly for easy access while i work on it. Seems to work mostly fine for now, tuner needs some help and eventually i'll go through and recap as necessary but it's listenable for now!
Well I’ve hit a snag in my extraordinarily long process of getting my SKR163W unit up and running. Does anyone know if there’s a fix for this or a place where I can find a replacement arm or something? The replacement needle I got doesn’t affix because of a tiny broken plastic piece in the cartridge(?).
