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Can I control the turntable motor speed of my Empire 598 electronically?

there is also a point where it just doesn't matter that much and getting it close is good enough.

Before someone comes along and actually buys one of those high precision machinist's levels, I was kidding. Yes they exist, no they are not even remotely sensible to level a turntable with. I wasn't kidding about how to confirm calibration of a level though. If its not consistent regardless of orientation its not going to give sensible results.
 
The score was +0.07%. I can totally live with that but, I will run a proper speed test using the strobe and fluorescent light to be sure.
If you get the strobe light and the dots are moving, how can you tell, if the speed is within tolerance or not?!...get it nevertheless, it's cheap enough.
Take a roll of tape, or cut the tube of toillet paper (or the simmilar), place it over the spindle, put the phone on fairly centered and run the test again.

The deck is serviced/lubricated, running a quality new belt, so don't sweat it, if you don't actually hear the speed being off.

This:
there is also a point where it just doesn't matter that much and getting it close is good enough.
is actually what the whole playing records story is about.
 
there is also a point where it just doesn't matter that much and getting it close is good enough.

Before someone comes along and actually buys one of those high precision machinist's levels, I was kidding. Yes they exist, no they are not even remotely sensible to level a turntable with. I wasn't kidding about how to confirm calibration of a level though. If its not consistent regardless of orientation its not going to give sensible results.
I have a 4' level that says my kitchen counter is level, and the bullseye levels for my TT also say it's level, so that's good enough. Some arms are more sensitive to it than others.
 
I have a 4' level that says my kitchen counter is level
I have one that says a set of shelves I built is level, but my eye and a marble says its not. Somehow by an absolute miracle I put that level on each shelf the same way each time. Spin it around and the bubble goes to one end. The level itself is screwed up. Luckily they are just garage shelves and having them perfectly level doesn't matter all that much. I jammed some scraps of plywood under the legs at one end, its close enough.
 
I have one that says a set of shelves I built is level, but my eye and a marble says its not. Somehow by an absolute miracle I put that level on each shelf the same way each time. Spin it around and the bubble goes to one end. The level itself is screwed up. Luckily they are just garage shelves and having them perfectly level doesn't matter all that much. I jammed some scraps of plywood under the legs at one end, its close enough.
Just don't store marbles on it and it'll be fine. :biggrin:
 
Do not use a bubble level as they are very inaccurate and not good enough for a turntable.
I always test them against themselves — and against a known good level. You can get three very good round ones out of 5.

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Tested accuracy, rotated.


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The Hammerhead is my best level. Sorry, I don't have a Stabila or a lab-quality level.
 
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Unfortunately "BULLS EYE LEVELS" have very poor Resolution.

That's why we don't use them.

The longer the bubble the less curve the higher the resolution.

A "BULLS EYE LEVEL" would need to be 3 inches in diameter to match a String level.
 
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Unfortunately round bubble levels have very poor Resolution.

That's why we don't use them.

The longer the bubble the less curve the higher the resolution.

A bubble would need to be 3 inches in diameter to match a String level.
Okay. I'm not saying to not use traditional bubble levels. It's just that, in MY EXPERIENCE, the round ones do work. Tested against each other and against a beam level.

The best thing (FOR ME), is that they check two axes at the same time. Front to back, and left to right. That is nice.
 
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