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century tek
Addicted Member
Welcome!
First, what is your level of expertise? Do you want to do it yourself?
Your description sure sounds like a bad relay or contacts but it could be other things like dirty pots and switches. I hope it's the latter.
First, what is your level of expertise? Do you want to do it yourself?
Your description sure sounds like a bad relay or contacts but it could be other things like dirty pots and switches. I hope it's the latter.
Thank you for welcome!
Well, l have a Carver CT-17 pre-amp that needed repair several years ago and I was lucky enough to run across a genius on a web forum similar to this. He walked me through the steps to remove and replace the faulty part. I'm totally game to troubleshoot the issue but I'll be honest in saying that I will need some guidance to get to the finish.
By the way, another way that I can get the channel to come back is to move the chasis of the amp. Usually by lifting on one of the front corners.
Well, l have a Carver CT-17 pre-amp that needed repair several years ago and I was lucky enough to run across a genius on a web forum similar to this. He walked me through the steps to remove and replace the faulty part. I'm totally game to troubleshoot the issue but I'll be honest in saying that I will need some guidance to get to the finish.
By the way, another way that I can get the channel to come back is to move the chasis of the amp. Usually by lifting on one of the front corners.
Bahamayellow
Super Member
If u like the sound of the 25 I would get the whole thing rebuilt. One of mine had static in one channel then spread to the other. I had it rebuilt and didn’t realize it’s true potential. I’m using 2 in bi amp mode on some very large infinity’s. The orange one is the rebuilt one.
jazzmans
Super Member
time to take it to the shop. My M1.5T started doing this, then after a few months, it did it more and more, ending up in me shelving it for a few years. IIRC, it was cold solders on the board failing, along with a zener diode.
I've had nearly all my carver amps repaired for this problem over the years, from the M series, to the TFM series, to the PM series.
Very likely the preamp needs cleaning. if you have another you could try swapping it out. Or even easier, try excersizing all of the controls repeatedly, especially the input selector, then see if the issue is still there.
I should add, I like this amp, purchased one new in 1991 along with a bunch of other Carver gear. Long story but I no longer have the amp, but have replaced most of the other Carver gear including two TFM 15cb's that now drive the center and rear speakers in my surround setup.
I should add, I like this amp, purchased one new in 1991 along with a bunch of other Carver gear. Long story but I no longer have the amp, but have replaced most of the other Carver gear including two TFM 15cb's that now drive the center and rear speakers in my surround setup.
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May I ask where you had your amp rebuilt and how much it cost?
Bahamayellow
Super Member
[QUOTE="
This - I had similar symptoms with my TFM-25 and it was cold\busted solder joints at the back of the board, where the speaker terminal is connected. Try wiggling those speaker posts on the offending channel.
TFM-25 seemed easy to "re-furb" when I did mine, but I didn't swap the output transistors (I normally don't if they are working OK). The big caps are a bit difficult because of the glue, but it can be managed. There's a thread over at the carver site I believe, sorry I can't get a link but you can maybe find it.
I also didn't upsize the filter caps, I tried to keep most at original values but I did use some WIMA and Muse which deviated from the original electrolytic design. The relay is an easy replacement as well. If you have any skills, I'd suggest doing it yourself.
