Cleaning the silver facing
- Thread starter Deke
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chillwolf
"Play 'em off!"
I use aluminum mag wheel polish after cleaning 1st with an orange spray cleaner, works really well. Just be careful around the lettering! The orange spray cleaner is the best thing I have found for cleaning cases and face plates, has never taken off any lettering yet. :yes:
ferninando
Lunatic Member
mild dishsoap and water, glass cleaner, kitchen spray cleaners on a wet cloth, computer cleaner towels, isoprop alchohol, etc. Just don't rub excessivly or you mite remove lettering. If you dilute you're safer. Mild dishsoap/water is safest. All work good.
This stuff does the trick for me,has given my silver and black faceplates the "just took it out of the box and unwrapped it from the plastic" look everytime,and has never harmed the surrounding plastics or lettering.It's called Flitz Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner,in the spray bottle.Really,Really,Good stuff!! Rob
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ARguy
AR Collector
I use Simple Green. Spray it on, let it sit and wash it off. Sometimes I use a very soft toothbrush if the grime is tough. I will follow up with Crest regular toothpaste and a toothbrush if required. Watch out for lettering from Sony or JVC as it tends to wash right off with just water.
chillwolf
"Play 'em off!"
Thanks for the info....where at in the Shenandoah Valley are you at? My wife is from Luray,VA and we spend a lot of time there. Thanks again.
Hey Deke! I live in Staunton, about 90 miles southwest from Luray. If you are ever down this way send me a PM. Would be glad to meet some fellow AKrs. :yes:
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Windex followed by Johnson's Pledge--an SE Johnson Family Co. Ha ha. Dont rub too hard though. Good luck with your find!!!!
OldSkool
Pioneer Nut
Thats funny.......
"That's what I love about these high school girls, man. I get older, they stay the same age. "
vintage-yungin
i still really like pizza
I have always removed the face plate and all the control knobs and filled the since with hot hot water added some soap and gave em a bubble bath!came out nice n shiny every time only that was never good enough i used meguiars car polish.
Shawn
Shawn
Tapehead47
Addicted Member
Tapehead47
Addicted Member
I've tried a few things. Experimenting is fun. Windex worked well for me many times. Lately I've used Simple Green. It's a fantastic chemical, but you MUST dilute it with water. Otherwise it's too strong and streaks like crazy.
For tough jobs I've used wood alcohol, WD-40 (it's a solvent), and Armorall. Armorall gave a good finish on a couple of black faces I cleaned. But it requires a lot of detail work. Pledge works, too.
For cleaning tools, use q-tips, cotton balls, soft material (like gun-cleaning patches), etc. Use a small bristle brush (Artist brush) to get all the dust out of the tight areas around meters, dials, knobs, switches, buttons, etc. It's best to remove the knobs first.
Never spray any solution directly on the face. Spray the cleaning cloth first.
Just some of the stuff I've tried.
For tough jobs I've used wood alcohol, WD-40 (it's a solvent), and Armorall. Armorall gave a good finish on a couple of black faces I cleaned. But it requires a lot of detail work. Pledge works, too.
For cleaning tools, use q-tips, cotton balls, soft material (like gun-cleaning patches), etc. Use a small bristle brush (Artist brush) to get all the dust out of the tight areas around meters, dials, knobs, switches, buttons, etc. It's best to remove the knobs first.
Never spray any solution directly on the face. Spray the cleaning cloth first.
Just some of the stuff I've tried.
Raphael
Dream catcher.
Alot of the aluminum stuff has a thin protective coating on it to both resist light scratching and to keep the aluminum from oxidizing and discoloring from the oils and corrosive body fluids left when in contact with our hands.
Since aluminum does not like acidic solutions--I avoid citrine cleaners, and anything too strong. Although, I too am a 'dunk and scrub' kinda guy, I rinse with purified/distilled water because my tap water is moderately hard and 'city water' will always leave a thin mineral layer on the areas of the coated aluminum that have worn down to bare metal (regardless of my attempts at drying before crud can set). But even after using purified water 'ghosting' will be apparent on almost any vintage metal faceplate. I combat 'ghosting' effectively by using a fine grade non-abrasive automobile wax. The wax coats any bare spots and evens out the finish very well and allows you to paw your gear to your hearts content with the knowlege that those acidic and sometimes grimy finger prints are easily wiped away.
Since aluminum does not like acidic solutions--I avoid citrine cleaners, and anything too strong. Although, I too am a 'dunk and scrub' kinda guy, I rinse with purified/distilled water because my tap water is moderately hard and 'city water' will always leave a thin mineral layer on the areas of the coated aluminum that have worn down to bare metal (regardless of my attempts at drying before crud can set). But even after using purified water 'ghosting' will be apparent on almost any vintage metal faceplate. I combat 'ghosting' effectively by using a fine grade non-abrasive automobile wax. The wax coats any bare spots and evens out the finish very well and allows you to paw your gear to your hearts content with the knowlege that those acidic and sometimes grimy finger prints are easily wiped away.
Arkay
Lunatic Member
Do remove your faceplate completely from the receiver before cleaning it, for best results. [Reading between the lines, some here do but some don't). It's usually best to be fairly quick with the cleaners - a minute won't hurt, but DON'T soak them a long time. Apply cleaner, rinse, wipe or apply cleaner, wipe, rinse, but don't add "soak" into the sequence.
I've learned (from others experienced in the old-gear repair business and from my own experience) that --very strong cleaners aside-- usually what determines whether lettering comes off is the state that the lettering is in to begin with. Both how they were made and what they have been through since manufacture will determine how stable the letteris are. Best thing is to CAREFULLY test a small, least-conspicuous area of lettering first, to make sure it doesn't come off. If you scrub with something as harsh as a toothbrush, or even just a cotton ball, be especially careful around the lettering, not to rub (at least not hard). Again, avoid soaking too long, either, as it increases chances of the lettering (along with the protective coatings) coming off.
Use any of the cleaners suggested, avoiding the strongest and acidic ones, as suggested, and likewise finish it off with the automotive wax. In my experience, that last step is what really makes them "gleam" like new again. However, check the ingredients in the wax. The simpler the formula, the safer, although some protectants might help extend your gear's life.
Haven't tried the Flitz mag wheel polish that Rob recommends, but after his comments, I'll try that next. [Experiments usually don't hurt, and sometimes lead to improvements.] Probably already leaves behind a protective wax (or similar) layer, if it makes them look that new again with just one product used.
I've learned (from others experienced in the old-gear repair business and from my own experience) that --very strong cleaners aside-- usually what determines whether lettering comes off is the state that the lettering is in to begin with. Both how they were made and what they have been through since manufacture will determine how stable the letteris are. Best thing is to CAREFULLY test a small, least-conspicuous area of lettering first, to make sure it doesn't come off. If you scrub with something as harsh as a toothbrush, or even just a cotton ball, be especially careful around the lettering, not to rub (at least not hard). Again, avoid soaking too long, either, as it increases chances of the lettering (along with the protective coatings) coming off.
Use any of the cleaners suggested, avoiding the strongest and acidic ones, as suggested, and likewise finish it off with the automotive wax. In my experience, that last step is what really makes them "gleam" like new again. However, check the ingredients in the wax. The simpler the formula, the safer, although some protectants might help extend your gear's life.
Haven't tried the Flitz mag wheel polish that Rob recommends, but after his comments, I'll try that next. [Experiments usually don't hurt, and sometimes lead to improvements.] Probably already leaves behind a protective wax (or similar) layer, if it makes them look that new again with just one product used.
Tapehead47
Addicted Member
Automotive wax worked for me, too. The finish of a faceplate is like a car's Clearcoat. Unless you take your unit outside in the sun and rain, mud and snow, a bit of auto wax will last years.
Good advice! I'd forgotten about that. It's hard to get it out of the little cracks! So be careful. I've used toothpicks to remove dried wax in tight places.
This thread is causing me to look over at my system...hmmm, maybe it's time for a little panel cleaning....naw. I'll just dust it off.
Good advice! I'd forgotten about that. It's hard to get it out of the little cracks! So be careful. I've used toothpicks to remove dried wax in tight places.
This thread is causing me to look over at my system...hmmm, maybe it's time for a little panel cleaning....naw. I'll just dust it off.
