Confused about wattage...

[davesnewTT]

I just looked at my old caps. It says ELCAP on the side, which is the brand, and presumably derived from ELectrolytic CAP.
But I guess yours don't say that, since it wasn't included in the markings you posted?

 

[mrkmpn]

I just looked at my old caps. It says ELCAP on the side, which is the brand, and presumably derived from ELectrolytic CAP.
But I guess yours don't say that, since it wasn't included in the markings you posted?

No, I think these are from Texas Instruments since it has TI on it. I'm wondering if these could have already been placed at some point. I've also asked about this on badcaps.net, but I'm getting conflicting information as to whether these are electrolytic or not.

One person has stated "If they're marked NP, they're more than likely electrolytic since the other types are all non polar, so no reason to mark them with that"

Another person says if they're electrolytic one end will be metal and the other a "bung" or type of resin. While a film cap will have a resin on both ends.

Mine has a red resin on both ends of the cap.

 

[bowtie427ss]

Looks like a Callins wax seal electrolytic cap to me.

 

[mrkmpn]

Looks like a Callins wax seal electrolytic cap to me.

Thanks for that! I did an image search for Callins caps and it looks like you're correct.

Now to find a good poly replacement that will fit under those fuse connections. Wish I'd thought to measure that when I had it out.

 

[Adda]

Thanks for that! I did an image search for Callins caps and it looks like you're correct.

Now to find a good poly replacement that will fit under those fuse connections. Wish I'd thought to measure that when I had it out.

You can be creative when it comes to mounting caps on PCB's.

You can mount it from the back side of the PCB, you can put extension cords on it (not too long) and so on.

Example:

 

[mrkmpn]

You can be creative when it comes to mounting caps on PCB's.

You can mount it from the back side of the PCB, you can put extension cords on it (not too long) and so on.

Example:

ahhh.... good idea, I wouldn't have thought to stick it on the back side...

 

[AG1990]

Looks like a Callins wax seal electrolytic cap to me.

Callins never, never used wax to seal their electrolytic capacitors. Callins capacitors were very high quality units. Too learn about the construction of these components visit http://callinscapacitors.org.

 

[BrocLuno]

I had a series of HH Scott Receivers. They have decent headroom if they are even close to spec... The 370 will drive your speakers pretty well.

The issue is instantaneous power (watts, as in voltage vs amperage). As the music signal goes through the amp section, the response is to send the current needed to replicate that wave. For some peaks it can be all that's available in the system... The size of transformers and filter caps influences how much current is available for the micro-second that peak is present. With enough it will sound right.

So, as soon as you hear distortion, you are into some form of clipping. You might not be riding the rails (voltage limits), but you very well could be. And that will toast a speaker quick

Keep it out of distortion and you should be fine

And, speakers in my 50 odd years of doing this can handle a LOT more power (instantaneous) than folks think. You could likely safely drive your speakers with 125 WPC system. But you'd have to be doubly careful to stay out of distortion if you have the loud knob cranked...

It's RMS power and clipped signals running near DC at the rails that will wipe oit a voice coil