Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
Easier, but not that much easier. Been there, built that.
It's hard to beat the focus, of drivers all operating on and launching sound from the same baffle.
Regards,
Gordon.
DSP is a powerful tool.
Easier, but not that much easier. Been there, built that.
It's hard to beat the focus, of drivers all operating on and launching sound from the same baffle.
Regards,
Gordon.
These:
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15" x 16" footprint. Dual 10" woofers, triple 10" passive radiators (on the rear) run by an on-board 500 watt amp. That would be less floor space, than two of those subwoofers and two stand-mounted cabinets, combined (if it's not stereo bass, it need not apply, IMHO). Unless you built some custom stands to go on top of the subs- which would unfortunately defeat the isolation in the factory stands...
But, all in a COMMON cabinet- radiating from the same space. Not separate cabinets.
Flat to 16Hz, usable output to 12Hz.
The VSA VR55 and Ultra 55 would also apply.
The Tannoy Saturn S10 would come very close too. The specs say 28Hz, but I measured an f3 of 22Hz in room on a pair of those (with one bass port in each speaker blocked by the factory plug, and the other port open), in a friend's house. Sold for $2K back in the late 90s.
Regards,
Gordon.

You're conflating two different issues here. Getting the speakers at the correct height is the primary function of speaker stands. Whether or not the speakers should be coupled rigidly to the floor is another matter. Many people believe they should be and in order to achieve that with stand-mounted speakers they use spikes on the bottom of the stands and spikes or cones between the speakers and stands. That couples them rigidly to the ground, just like floorstanders.
Actually, in the recording studio world the opposite approach is usually taken. There they often place soft/absorbent material under the speakers to decouple them from the surface they're on.
That's interesting and I suppose answers my question about the ratio of cab weight to driver size - assuming a low friction floor.The AR58s were inching backwards sitting on tile floors, good old American made furniture grade cabinets at 52lbs. Spiking cured the problem, tightened up the bass and improved imaging. It also allowed leveling and if dealing with tile floors this is a huge benefit.
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You have been here long enough to know that everything Schultzy has is the best choice another can make, and life would be simpler if others would just do as him.Is that meant to prove something? If so, what?
What are they?These:
@rothwellaudio asked an honest question which unfortunately was misinterpreted as a dig.You have been here long enough to know that everything Schultzy has is the best choice another can make, and life would be simpler if others would just do as him.
It really depends on the floor, newer floors in upscale homes will have 16" or 24" tiles where it was more the norm for 8" or 12" or even smaller back in the day.That's interesting and I suppose answers my question about the ratio of cab weight to driver size - assuming a low friction floor.
I've had every type of floor over the years, except tiles.
Well, studios range from small and cheap to big and expensive, but certainly the ones at the big/expensive end of the spectrum usually have main monitors arranged not-unlike a domestic setup in the far field, plus one or more pairs of near-field monitors.Studio listening is very near field and completely on-axis ..
Kinda makes sense that a mixing engineer would stick a pad under his monitors so that the shelf that they're sitting on couldn't influence what he's hearing ..
He's too close to the speakers to hear much of what the room might be contributing ..
For us it's the exact opposite ... out in the room trying to control room resonances ..
Mass loading on spikes is an effective means of controlling resonant frequencies ..
It really depends on the floor, newer floors in upscale homes will have 16" or 24" tiles where it was more the norm for 8" or 12" or even smaller back in the day.
So if your speakers actually sit on multiple tiles this could mean only a very small percentage of the flat bottom is actually in contact with the floor.
I never actually saw the speaker move but kept finding they had moved slightly backwards, at first I thought it was the cleaning lady but at times she hadn't been there.
Rubber feet might have worked but the tile floor might have still seen one foot off the floor leading to the speaker rocking, so spiking was really the only alternative.
Once spiked they were adjustable so could be leveled. Tile floors are common in FL, I had a house with Mexican tile, the more animal tracks and ef'd up the more expensive.
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Not as crazy as me - I put my books on speaker stands!Call me crazy, but I tend to actually put bookshelf speakers on bookshelves.
Greetings from Munich!
Manfred / lini

Ever sat on a wobbly 3-legged bar stool? How about a 4-legged one?3 spikes instead of 4 is a good solution to that problem ...
It's the same on other sites...the irony (especially from those whom espouse "objectivity") is hysterical...Ever sat on a wobbly 3-legged bar stool? How and a 4-legged one?
There was a discussion about this with TT feet a while ago. Of course, being AK, everyone climbed their hill and started defending.
Made me think about it ..
Why use spikes on tile ??
For wood, yes .. they penetrate and couple .. channel a lower resonant frequency into the floor and out of the speaker .. and fix the speaker more firmly horizontally.
For carpet yes, they penetrate through the fiber and inhibit micro-rocking on the fibers ..
For tile .. your firm rubber foot seems about as good as it gets .. too easy to create a buzz somewhere ..
Tile is laid fixed on concrete .. the floor isn't going to resonate audibly unless the speaker is on a loose tile. ..
Either a rubber foot or a spike would serve the leveling purpose ... and keep the speaker box from buzzing on the floor..
Anybody ever heard of listening tests comparing rubber to spikes on Tile ??
Seems like a toss-up to me except that rubber may change some cabinet resonances for the better .. or the worse .. not so sure about that .
And that rubber better be firm or the baffle will be rocking in response to the drivers ..