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Console Opinions

After enlarging your moto image, I see that yours uses an
Astatic Soundflo 89T plug-in cartridge/stylus making your unit a later production run (1957 i think). These are very easy to find, but get an original green colored one, they are much better quality than the later brown ones.

if you want to go with a modern magnetic as i did, you can use
a Stanton 500AL or a pickering NP/AC. They will screw into
the original arm mounting holes and you strap the cartridge for mono output, left & right hot tied and left ground and right ground tied. These cartridges are a little heavier than the original so you will have to adjust the tonearm tracking weight by changing the position of the spring under the arm.
You would move it forward to one of the narrower slots.
Tracking should be adjusted to about three grams for the stanton and 3.5 to 4 grams for the Pickering. Of course
this assumes the turntable mechanicals have been cleaned of the old grease and relubed.
In using one of these magnetics you will need to add one of the small riaa phono preamps that are widely availabe. Plug the tonearm output cable into the preamp and then plug the output of the preamp into the amplifier input. This also assumes the amp has been rebuilt with new capcitors.
Another thing, because the tonearm is metal, you will have
to remove the small grounding strap that comes with these cartridges.
The Stanton 500AL has been recently renamed to something like V4 or V5 but it is the same. Just make sure it is the Spherical stylus model with a tracking range of two to five grams.
 
orthophonic:

Thank you so very much for that detailed response! If you (or anyone else) were to suggest an inexpensive phono preamp, what would it be?

Thanks again!
Dave
 
Markus:

You up for guiding a noob through a stand-alone conversion on this one (might take a few phone calls or visit or 2 ;) )?

Dave

suuuuuuure :D

I'm pretty light on power supply caps (still ! . .. must . . .re . . .ORDER) but I should enough signal caps for the moto amp . . .

orthophonic:

does the modern cart trick work on other console changers, like, say, the Magnavox / Collaro changers ?
 
Okay, I picked them up today:

The little Maggie has a SE 6BQ5 amp. Kinda small OPTs and it is funky and nasty. But I brought it up on the (poor man's) variac to check it and it actually sounds pretty nice. Cosmetics of the cabinetry are 6/10. I guess the thing that has struck me the most about this one is its size. It's really quite small, almost petite. It's like a 5/8 version of my Fisher Electra. The drivers are nothing to write home about, but it does have a tuner which was a surprise (no MPX). TT no workie. I'll get the amp chassis pulled this weekend and check the cap values for replacements. I think this puppy is bound for stand-alone duty. :thmbsp:

The big Moto mono unit has a PP 6V6GT amp with nice and beefy iron. All Jensen drivers anchored by a big 15"er (kind of a small motor structure tho'). Cosmetics are 8/10. TT works, but will obviously need a new stylus/cartridge and a thorough cleaning/lube. This one's gonna be a keeper: Intact!. My youngest son Chris (RenegadeRTR) is very excited about this one! It's really a very pretty unit. I brought it up the same way as the Maggie. Scratchy pots for sure, but it was alive! I found an old LP to throw on it and it made (albeit scratchy/distorted sounding) music. All original Moto branded tubes. I'll not be powering it up again before pulling the amp for a re-cap and thorough going over. I'm not going to push my luck with this one!

The first 4 pics are of the Maggie's innards, the rest are the Moto. More to come!

Dave
 

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That iron on the Moto looks serious - particulary for a console, and the Jensen drivers are another indicator of quality, I pulled similar ones from a Pilot console last summer...
 
Good luck with your Moto, those things sound beautiful, my 1962 SK77W-2Z gives me "goosebumps" every time I use it. 6 6V6GT's in that baby. Pictures on my website.
I sure wish they could make a modern stereo that sounds like the old ones. But, I guess that is what makes the old ones so special.
 
Okay, got the amp pulled from the old Moto. Now I have to order some caps to replace that multi-cap can. Caps values are:
  • 40uF 400v
  • 40uF 400v
  • 20uF 400v
  • 40uF 25v
Can someone please explain to me what the symbols following the cap values mean? The first is a closed half-circle. The second a square and the third is a triangle. Also, can anyone point me in the direction to find a stylus for this weird looking cartridge?

amp_01.jpg


amp_02.jpg


amp_03.jpg


needle01.jpg


Thanks!
Dave
 
hey Dave - lemme know when your ordering some caps - could I piggyback on your order ?
 
yes, if you look under the chassis at the bottom of the can cap, you'll see each leg with those symbols. make sure you switch them one by one - otherwise, you can get lost easily. best to leave the can alone with terminals detached and put the new ones under the chassis - unless you can find one can with all the values.
 
Wow, there really isn't much room on the underside of that can to fit 4 caps. It sure look pretty cramped already. This should be interesting. :scratch2:

Dave
 
The stylus is an Electrovoice Power point 56D.
The Pfanstiehl replacemnt no. is 940-DS13.
These can be fouind on that auction site or thru various vendors such as Needle Daddy or Garage-a records.
 
Okay, got the amp pulled from the old Moto. Now I have to order some caps to replace that multi-cap can. Caps values are:
  • 40uF 400v
  • 40uF 400v
  • 20uF 400v
  • 40uF 25v
Will I be safe replacing the above with the following:
  • 100uF 450v
  • 100uF 450v
  • 47uF 450v
  • 100uF 25v

Thank you!
Dave
 
Will I be safe replacing the above with the following:
  • 100uF 450v
  • 100uF 450v
  • 47uF 450v
  • 100uF 25v

Thank you!
Dave

as far as i know, filter cap values can be doubled with no problem, but not sure if you can more than double the bias supply cap (last one). you should increase it's voltage for sure though (50v or so).


Wow, there really isn't much room on the underside of that can to fit 4 caps. It sure look pretty cramped already. This should be interesting. :scratch2:

Dave

don't be afraid to extend terminal wires and install them to the right side of the under chassis. use glue to make sure they don't come loose, and also use heat shrink.

*another thing you can do is restuff the existing can, but that could be a messy process. OR you can get rid of the can and use chassis top mount clamps to install new cap on the top.
 
... but not sure if you can more than double the bias supply cap (last one). you should increase it's voltage for sure though (50v or so).
Thanks gogofast. Looks the closest I can get would be 47mF 50v. Do you think that would be okay or should I go with 2 20uF's in parallel?

Dave
 
... but not sure if you can more than double the bias supply cap (last one). you should increase it's voltage for sure though (50v or so).
Thanks gogofast. Looks like the closest I can get would be 47mF 50v. Do you think that would be okay or should I go with 2 20uF's in parallel?

don't be afraid to extend terminal wires and install them to the right side of the under chassis.
What do you use for wire, just shielded solid-core?

Thanks again!
Dave

D'Oh! Damn double post!!! Sorry 'bout that folks.
 
Another question for the assembled gurus:

This is my first amp employing 6v6gt output tubes, so I am unfamiliar with their characteristics. I'm not sure if you can see from the pics, but inside the glass of the tube body is very cloudy. You can't actually see inside the tube unless looking through the top. Is this normal or is indicative of a bad tube?

Dave
 
those are gray smoked glass tubes and as long as they test ok - nothing to worry about. a lot of RCA, sylvania, motorolla labeled such tubes out there.

two 20uf's in parallel is only 40uf. if you can't get 50 or more, use 47uf. less than 10% should be tolerable i think.

i usually use shielded 24 awg wires to extend cap legs and then use heat shrink to cover the connection.
 
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