relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
The original cap value is 40uF 25v. So 2 20uF/50v (in parallel) should work, right?
Dave
Console Opinions
- Thread starter relaximus
- Start date
Dave
gogofast
Addicted Member
oh, sorry, my mistake.
i thought it was 50uf originally. either will work.
good luck with your restoration! :thmbsp:
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
Thanks gogo, I really want to get this console back in shape and intact. The little Maggie, however, is going to be sacrificed for stand-alone duty. A little SE 6bq5 amp should be great fun!
Dave
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
gogofast
Addicted Member
actually, check this thread out for idea on glue usage and alternative.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=206270
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=206270
Careful.....
What is that rectifier there? 5U4GB maybe? If so, you don't want to go any higher than 40uF for the first cap. It has something to do with the rectifier tube specs and the current IIRC. My short term memory is like swiss cheese these days. You can find 40 uF caps at PE or Mouser. The other stages can be increased. One of the tube guru's can address the issue more specifically.
Also, if I have a chance, I'll look thru some of my old threads and see if I can find specifics.....
What is that rectifier there? 5U4GB maybe? If so, you don't want to go any higher than 40uF for the first cap. It has something to do with the rectifier tube specs and the current IIRC. My short term memory is like swiss cheese these days. You can find 40 uF caps at PE or Mouser. The other stages can be increased. One of the tube guru's can address the issue more specifically.
Also, if I have a chance, I'll look thru some of my old threads and see if I can find specifics.....
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
According to the data sheet, the 5Y3GT typical filter input capacitor should be 20uF.
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/093/5/5Y3GT.pdf
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/093/5/5Y3GT.pdf
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
- 40uF 400v
- 40uF 400v
- 20uF 400v
- 40uF 25v
And which ones is it safe to increase the capacitance and voltage for?
Dave
markus
Master Procrastinator
betcha the last one is the cathode cap . . .
Sorry....
Actually, those are all electrolytics and NEED to be replaced.
And can I safely assume that the caps I've highlighted below are ceramics and won't need to be replaced?
Dave
Actually, those are all electrolytics and NEED to be replaced.
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
AA:
Oh my, that is depressing. :tears: This is turning out to be something way beyond my capabilities. I don't even know how I get to some of them buried under all those resistors. I really don't think I want to try my first recap on this amp.
Dave
No sweat....
Dave, it's actually easier than you think.
First get a nice thin pencil or small screwdriver tipped soldering iron, say 30 watts. I also have a de-soldering iron, which is a more powerful iron combined with a bulb suction device for removing old solder. Both of mine are from Rat Shack.
Also, get the Rat Shack set of soldering tools, which include a heat sink, and some straight and bent tipped probes/tools for teasing apart crimped leads. Of course you'll also need some resin core solder for reforming your joints.
Make an inventory of all the caps you'll need, and then get them from a reputable on-line seller. I see some .25 and some .02 uF caps , along with some others not visible. Get 600 VDC or 630 VDC rated poly film caps. Some folks like Sprague orange drops, others are more or less picky. Buy more than you need, cause they're cheap, and once you do one amp, the next is a lot easier.
Then once you have everything collected, take a high res picture of the underside of the amp so you'll always have a reference. (schematics are also helpful but not a requirement for a re cap)
Then start with one cap at a time, unsolder one lead, resolder the new cap to the same position, and then carefully thread the old cap out from underneath the other components. This way, you won't forget where anything goes. Rarely do you have to remove other components out of the way. Desolder the other lead of the old cap and solder the other new lead in its place. Newer caps are typically smaller, which helps
Repeat as necessary until finished.
While you're under there, you may want to replace the multi can cap. This can sometimes be a little more challenging just to understand the connections, but it's not that hard. Typically I do this with discrete caps and a terminal strip.
You CAN do this......:thmbsp:
Dave, it's actually easier than you think.
First get a nice thin pencil or small screwdriver tipped soldering iron, say 30 watts. I also have a de-soldering iron, which is a more powerful iron combined with a bulb suction device for removing old solder. Both of mine are from Rat Shack.
Also, get the Rat Shack set of soldering tools, which include a heat sink, and some straight and bent tipped probes/tools for teasing apart crimped leads. Of course you'll also need some resin core solder for reforming your joints.
Make an inventory of all the caps you'll need, and then get them from a reputable on-line seller. I see some .25 and some .02 uF caps , along with some others not visible. Get 600 VDC or 630 VDC rated poly film caps. Some folks like Sprague orange drops, others are more or less picky. Buy more than you need, cause they're cheap, and once you do one amp, the next is a lot easier.
Then once you have everything collected, take a high res picture of the underside of the amp so you'll always have a reference. (schematics are also helpful but not a requirement for a re cap)
Then start with one cap at a time, unsolder one lead, resolder the new cap to the same position, and then carefully thread the old cap out from underneath the other components. This way, you won't forget where anything goes. Rarely do you have to remove other components out of the way. Desolder the other lead of the old cap and solder the other new lead in its place. Newer caps are typically smaller, which helps
Repeat as necessary until finished.
While you're under there, you may want to replace the multi can cap. This can sometimes be a little more challenging just to understand the connections, but it's not that hard. Typically I do this with discrete caps and a terminal strip.
You CAN do this......:thmbsp:
relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
AA:
So I can use poly film caps to replace the electrolytics on the underside of the chassis?
I thought I would need to use electrolytics to replace the 4 caps in that can, no?
Dave
Yes, they should be replaced, but as an FYI they are not electrolytics, so just replace them with poly (polyester/mylar, polypropylene, etc) coupling caps as AA says below, not electrolytic.
The flat circular yeuky yellowish ones are the ceramic caps.
Good advice. To get your feet wet, start with the three smaller ones at the top of the pic that are not buried under any resistors, so they should be easier, and leave the big one till last. You'll soon get the hang of it. Once those three small ones are done, you're almost half way through them.
The caps in the can are electrolytics and you should replace them with electrolytic. The seven white caps that you highlighted are the ones that are to be replaced with poly caps.
You can use whatever you like, as long as the values and ratings are appropriate. Many times it's a matter of taste.
Some folks like to use paper/oil caps like Vitamin Q's for the coupling caps between stages. Others swear by orange drops. Personally, I like to use inexpensive caps, with the caveat that I might go with more boutique caps down the road if I wind up keeping that particular amp.
As far as the can caps, use what you can find. Glenn/Echowars doesn't like Xicon caps IIRC. YMMV.....
Just remember that all the small value/coupling caps are non-polar and the can caps are polar, and need to be soldered in with the correct polarity. I've already made that particular mistake.....:stupid:
