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Console Opinions

Wow guys, this is really quite awesome! You have almost built my confidence up enough to tackle this project.

Another question if you please: How best to go about approaching this rat's nest? This is the underside of that 4 section cap can.

amp_05.jpg


Dave

One of the problems is that things are tight underneath that chassis. You have a couple of choices.

You can cut open the can, dig out all the scrap, and stuff the new caps back inside. Alternatively, you can look for a space underneath there to mount a terminal strip and do discrete caps as a replacement. Sometimes it's easier to mount to the side of the chassis. Also, that large (.25uF) caps replacement will undoubtedly be smaller than the OEM part, so you will gain some space there.

I'd do the can last after replacing all the other caps, and firing it up on a variac. Follow the sticky at the top of the Tube forum page.....
 
... I'd do the can last after replacing all the other caps, and firing it up on a variac. Follow the sticky at the top of the Tube forum page.....
AA:

Oh yessir-ee! I've already built my "poor man's" (light bulb) variac and used it to initially power up several things. :thmbsp:

Dave
 
Wow guys, this is really quite awesome! You have almost built my confidence up enough to tackle this project.

Another question if you please: How best to go about approaching this rat's nest? This is the underside of that 4 section cap can.

amp_05.jpg


Dave

Another alternative, if that can cap hole is big enough, you might be able to replace the can cap with the JJ 40/20/20/20uF 500V multi-cap, which probably runs about $15 from AES, Radiodaze and others. If you used this, you could parallel two of the 20uF to make 40 uF, effectively making this a 40/40/20uF multi-cap; then you would just need to add a separate 40uF 25V-50V cap, which should be pretty small and easy to fit under there. If you go this route though, the JJ can is held in place with a mounting clamp, and it may be a slightly larger diameter than the existing can, so take measurements to make sure of fit. Alternatively, there is a CE manufacturing 40/20/20uF 500V can, which may be more of a drop-in fit than the JJ but it costs about double.
AA:

Oh yessir-ee! I've already built my "poor man's" (light bulb) variac and used it to initially power up several things. :thmbsp:

Dave
Being as you have powered this unit, just be sure the caps are discharged before starting work under there.
 
... Being as you have powered this unit, just be sure the caps are discharged before starting work under there.
Tinkerbelle:

Yes, I have been warned of this before. But I seriously do appreciate the friendly reminder! Even after having suffered several heart attacks, I'm pretty sure I'm not ready for self-defibrillation. ;)

Also, do you think that I might be well served to start out with the little SE 6BQ5 amp out of the Maggie console first? I'm not planning on restoring that console as a whole unit and that amp might be a bit simpler.

Dave
 
yes, if you look under the chassis at the bottom of the can cap, you'll see each leg with those symbols. make sure you switch them one by one - otherwise, you can get lost easily. best to leave the can alone with terminals detached and put the new ones under the chassis - unless you can find one can with all the values.
Well, I can find no symbols either on the bottom of the can nor on the legs. I assume the symbols must be on the legs buried under the globs of solder. Is there any safe way to deduce which might be which?

Dave
 
The symbols should be on the fiber board on the bottom side of the capacitor. Sometimes the shapes are cut out of the fiber board or sometimes imprinted. Try looking closely with a magnifying glass. I have never seen the markings on the legs.
 
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