Copying CDs
- Thread starter chiroman
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
KeninDC
Hazy Cosmic Jive
iTunes, absent tweaks, will convert to a lossy format.
While this format is fine for iPods and earbuds, it can sound a tad crappy on your home stereo or with car audio.
If you want an exact audio copy, I use and many AK member use the freeware "Exact Audio Copy."
http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/
Cheers,
Ken
While this format is fine for iPods and earbuds, it can sound a tad crappy on your home stereo or with car audio.
If you want an exact audio copy, I use and many AK member use the freeware "Exact Audio Copy."
http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/
Cheers,
Ken
The default setting for ripping CD's to iTunes is 128 kbps. If you don't change it, and then copy that to a CD, it will sound noticeably worse than the original CD.
I changed my iTunes setting to 320 kbps, and in the car it's pretty much indistinguishable from the original. If I play it through my main home system, then I can (slightly) tell it's not quite as good as the CD.
You can also set iTunes to copy the CD as a lossless file, and then it will be the same as the original.
I find that considering that I use my iPod for travel, 320 kbps is a good compromise between perfect sound and a reasonable file size.
I changed my iTunes setting to 320 kbps, and in the car it's pretty much indistinguishable from the original. If I play it through my main home system, then I can (slightly) tell it's not quite as good as the CD.
You can also set iTunes to copy the CD as a lossless file, and then it will be the same as the original.
I find that considering that I use my iPod for travel, 320 kbps is a good compromise between perfect sound and a reasonable file size.
drknstrmyknight
Addicted Member
While the RIAA disputes your right to back up your CD, if your lawyer does not advise against it, by all means use EAC in ecc mode. Also look for 'audio' CD blanks. Burn your backup with as slow a speed as your hardware allows. You should end up with as good or better copy for backup of your CD's.
Be sure to microwave your backups should you sell the original.
Be sure to microwave your backups should you sell the original.
guiller
Toscaninichus Australis
I make copies of my own CDs for carrying around using a PC running under Linux OS. I use a program called cdrdao (or eventually cdrecord). I use plain CD-Rs (I try to use black rather than silver ones), not the more expensive audio CD-Rs. I use a HP burner and burn at 8x speed. My copies are sonically indistinguishable from my original cds when played on my major setup (denon dcd1500 cdp).
All the best
All the best
Blue Meanie
Scratch 'n' Sniff
What's the difference between 'audio' CD blanks, and 'data' CD blanks?:scratch2:
Jeff
boxoboom
Heath Nut
Audio CD's have scms on them (serial copy management system) Data cd's do not. Audio CD's are meant for stand alone cd recorders. If you are backing them up on a pc Data cd's will work. My personal favorites are Taiyo Yuden. I have never ever had a bad one. Can't say that about any of the others even Verbatim, which is really good and should be considered also.
Steve
Steve
Blue Meanie
Scratch 'n' Sniff
Thanks for the reply, Steve.
I already knew everything you stated (as I once owned a standalone CD recorder). I was just wondering why drknstrmyknight was recommending audio blanks over data blanks. His statement made no sense to me, as audio CD blanks have an added cost.Jeff
KingBubba
"Too Much Stuff"
I've always used the Copy CD function in Nero and have never heard any flaw. You can also use CDex or other ripping software and rip your CD to .WAV format and the use yoru burning software to write the CD from the .WAV files. Wav files are huge so you will need to have space on your hard drive and most of the time you will want to lose the files when you are done with them or your hard drive will fill up fast. Another thing to remember, which is not known universally, is that most burned CDs are good for only about 5 years and after that time will start to deteriorate. Keeping them in the dark will help extend their life a bit, but who can do that in the real world.
drknstrmyknight
Addicted Member
Admittedly this is not scientific in the sense that it was not tightly controlled, but a few years ago at work we tested 10 or so types of blanks in the 12 cars of our developers. These were written with four different cd writers.
The Fuji and Sony "digital audio" blanks written on an external 24x Plextor at 4x were the only disks that played in all 12 cars. However one Chrysler seemed to 'eat' disks after 10 or so playings... They quit working in his car and every other car. If what you're using works with your equipment, you're home free.
The Fuji and Sony "digital audio" blanks written on an external 24x Plextor at 4x were the only disks that played in all 12 cars. However one Chrysler seemed to 'eat' disks after 10 or so playings... They quit working in his car and every other car. If what you're using works with your equipment, you're home free.
Blue Meanie
Scratch 'n' Sniff
Brent71
Well-Known Member
That's not quite correct. The discs don't have SCMS, the recorders do. The cd audio discs have a little bit of data written on them that tells the cd recorder that it's for use in a standalone deck, otherwise they're identical to regular cdr's. Some of the older Philips cd recorders could be 'hacked' to use regular computer cdr's. They charge more for the cd audio blanks since they collect a royalty on them that's supposed to go to the artists.
sleddogman
Super Member
Slow speed burning has more to do with playback compatibility compared to the brand of blank used (except for no-name stuff.) The slower you can burn, the more time the laser has over that particular spot on the disc to burn a more precise and deeper data pit.
A pit or no pit equates to the digital Ones and Zeros. Instead of almost nice round easily distinguishable data pits, the faster rotational speeds produce a smeared "teardrop" effect which will cause some decks to incorrectly identify the next space as a One instead of a Zero or just skip and poop out altogether. I have an old Pioneer burner that I keep around that will do 2x which I still use for audio compilations. My newer CD/DVD combos won't go below 4x and I've seen some that won't go below 8x-10x.
A pit or no pit equates to the digital Ones and Zeros. Instead of almost nice round easily distinguishable data pits, the faster rotational speeds produce a smeared "teardrop" effect which will cause some decks to incorrectly identify the next space as a One instead of a Zero or just skip and poop out altogether. I have an old Pioneer burner that I keep around that will do 2x which I still use for audio compilations. My newer CD/DVD combos won't go below 4x and I've seen some that won't go below 8x-10x.
