• Please note that Audiokarma will be offline briefly for updates early on Monday morning, September 28th.

CR-1020: After recap stuck in protection SOLVED

I was a bit confused about that. There were 10 ohm resistors in there, but I see 22 ohm in the manual. I'll order 22 ohm resistors in the next round from Mouser. Do you think the 10 ohm resistors in place of 22 ohm resistors would cause these crazy voltage values?
No.

Did you verify that the big caps are installed with correct polarity?
 
Found a second person with the exact same symptoms as me ... but the thread was never resolved. :(

ok i am just wanting to verify what i think/interperted from everyone elses posts. so when the pass transistors (2SD234) overheat the fm tuning dial goes to -50 that means those pass transistors need replaced with new ones? cause the relay in my cr-1020 doesn't click and the fm tuning meter goes to -50 but the signal q meter moves when i touch the tuning knob.

if anyone can verify this, thanks for your help.

Starting to sound like a common issue. But, my 2SD234s are gone (TR712, TR715 replaced with TIP31A) so I don't know if this theory holds water.
 
Last edited:
Measure the AC voltage between the black (CT) lug and the two red (AC) lugs on the top left edge of the E-cap board. Both should be 36 volts AC.
 
No.

Did you verify that the big caps are installed with correct polarity?

I have not - even my Weller 8200 isn't making a dent in the solder joints. I will make another attempt. They look original (factory glue present at the bases), but they are 15000uF / 63V instead of the 18000uF / 71V noted in the manual.

Actually, I can tell from the label that they are installed the same way. So either they're both correct or they're both wrong ... and they look original so I'm inclined to believe they are correctly installed.
 
Starting to sound like a common issue. But, my 2SD234s are gone (TR712, TR715 replaced with TIP31A so I don't know if this theory holds water.
Thats in your regulated DC supply. I'm more concerned the the unregulated DC supply.
 
have not - even my Weller 8200 isn't making a dent in the solder joints. I will make another attempt. They look original (factory glue present at the bases), but they are 15000uF / 63V instead of the 18000uF / 71V noted in the manual.
OK Nevermind.. I didn't know they were OEM. I thought you had replaced them.
 
Thats in your regulated DC supply. I'm more concerned the the unregulated DC supply.

Yeah, me too. But it seems odd to me, because it seems like there's a problem with both voltage regulators (D801 into C805/C806 and D802, D803 into C811/C812) at the same time.

OK Nevermind.. I didn't know they were OEM. I thought you had replaced them.

15,000 for the CR-1020 and 22,000 for the CR-2020. Both models share the same board.

Yep original, and weird, I'm looking at this circuit diagram marked CR-1020 and it shows 18000/71. Strange.

TRDBkwLl.jpg
 
At least that looks OK..

Yeah, the voltages out of the transformer look fine. The black wire is starting to fatigue with all this movement, so I'll re-solder everything once it's working again.

I just did a DMM diode test of both diodes in D802 and D803, in circuit, and strange results.

Looking at the board, the rightmost diode of D803 builds voltage either way. But the other diode doesn't build any voltage either way.

Neither diode of D802 builds voltage one way or the other. Hmm.
 
Those 10Ω resistors maybe correct for the CR-1020.

For the CR-2020 there is a service bulletin covering FR801 and 802 as well as R801 and 802. I'm thinking and error in the schematic of the e-cap board. The manual is the CR-2020 drawing.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, the voltages out of the transformer look fine. The black wire is starting to fatigue with all this movement, so I'll re-solder everything once it's working again.

I just did a DMM diode test of both diodes in D802 and D803, in circuit, and strange results.

Looking at the board, the rightmost diode of D803 builds voltage either way. But the other diode doesn't build any voltage either way.

Neither diode of D802 builds voltage one way or the other. Hmm.
One maybe borked. Those are dual diodes. One is common anode. And the other is a common cathode. Need to remove them from the circuit and diode check them with your meter.
 
The CR-1020 SM parts list confirms that C811 and C812 are 15,000µf and R801 and R802 are 10Ω.
 
One maybe borked. Those are dual diodes. One is common anode. And the other is a common cathode. Need to remove them from the circuit and diode check them with your meter.

Removed both (that took a while!) and tested, both test fine out of circuit. Did lots of cleaning of glue while they were out. Put them back in, no change.

The CR-1020 SM parts list confirms that C811 and C812 are 15,000µf and R801 and R802 are 10Ω.

Excellent, thanks. Will leave them alone.



... So now we've tested pretty much everything other than D801, some resistors, and all the little ceramic capacitors. Well, I didn't test C811/C812 but I did confirm there's no short across either. I suppose I could pull and test the little caps next. What else could it be.
 
Pulled and tested R803/R804, both good and within spec, re-installed, no change.

The answer is sitting there in front of me, it's gotta be.

(All of this work is being done, by the way, with the PS Board disconnected from the Electrolytic Cap Board. I believe that's OK. It still doesn't come out of protection if I connect them.)
 
Back
Top Bottom