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damacman's new lair . . .

damacman

damacman

Resident Psycho
The dust is finally settling after the move. Man, it's been a LONG year and a half! The new place has 400A service and we share a transformer with one other property - which is nice! [It'll be 800A soon . . . ] The panels are solid, the wire all copper and appropriately sized, and I have a Siemens whole house surge protector on each panel. [Thanks for the recommendation on these Billy . . . ] But man, the whole place - just crap outlets, all stab ins, and outlets wired daisy chain style in all circuits with STAB INs used as IN and OUT at all locations - who does that??? All the boxes are also CRAP - many already dry rotted and broken and half of them have 2" drywall screws holding the components in. OMG, is every house in AZ like that??? [I fixed all of this in the shop when we moved in, but the house . . . man, just no time.]

So, my living room system has been on hold with some stuff stacked on the floor to get me by. As of yesterday, the room now has power! We installed a new sub panel with (3) dedicated 20A circuits for the audio gear. 6/3 to one of the main panels, 10/2 to the outlets - all first class stuff. [Which btw is now about 3X as much at Home Depot as it is Amazon!!]

So, I now have a clear path to use both 2600s and all the home theater gear. So, I'm anxious to begin putting the big system back together. I've also obtained a new (to me) McIntosh XLS350 Center Channel speaker, some MC7270s, etc. So, the room should be fun to assemble. 7.1.4 or 5.1.4 is the question - I'm not sure on that just yet. Of course, 2-ch audio will also be front and center as always.

News to follow . . .
 
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Since you're going to have to rewire things as your first guy used the 'backstabs,' I put Leviton 8300-HW 20-Amp, 125-Volt outlets wherever I had 12 wire run, Leviton 8300-H 20-Amp, 125-Volt is the black version.

There's a 15 amp version as well, but you don't need it.

One room in my last house used 'backstab's', and I had a 1500 watt heater plugged into it. The outlet didn't last one season, the B'S's got loose and started sparking.

Another thing, in several locations you may want to install USB outlets to charge various devices,
 
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I posted a short version of things above, here's a few more things I've been thinking about.

As always, have a qualified electrician tell you this, not me.

There are surge suppressors that take up 2 breaker locations in the panel, you install them at the side closest to the main feed, and run a wire to the neutral in most panels. There are panels where the neutral is carried as part of the breaker support- Square D (and others, I imagine) make one called the QO load center- with this you don't need the separate neutral, the breaker support is that. My panel is from 2017 and the support is plastic so I can't use those- panels from 2018 and beyond might. There also was a recall on some of those panels, but your construction is probably beyond that- check anyway.

There is also an outboard surge suppressor that mounts to the panel where the ground and neutral merge, and can be installed outdoors. I don't know how much better or worse this is; hopefully someone who actually knows will post.
 
quartersaw said:
I didn't see this on the audio classics website, so I was thinking, that it might be Ai. If it's real, I'd be curious about how much a copy would cost!
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I thought I saw a post on here from @twiiii yesterday or the day before about a bunch of NOS MC2600 amps at AC, but now I cannot find that post. ??
 
He did post that, but it seems to have disappeared, … maybe he talked to AC after posting and found it to be only a rumor?

Only the shadow knows.
 
If you have not yet, do check, or have checked the ground from box to the ground rod/wipe/rebar as well. I fought a long time gremlin of dimming/blowing light bulbs, hum/buzz on TT (all stab boxes replaced, all breaker connections torqued/clean, main service connections verified w/ utility). During install of solar/ batteries and inverter I took the opportunity (all power off) to check the waterline bronze ground clamp. I had repeatedly checked it and decided to remove and clean. Found it has a corroded fracture clean through the back strap. Quick trip to the supply house gleaned and reseated rod (drove it down an inch or so with bfh). Electrician doing the solar install said ground are often problem and they often check them by twisting the clamp/rod for tight and if it looked compromised replaced, or added a second rod in tandem 6 to 8 ft away along foundation. Always check with someone qualified.
 
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