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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

If you find it is not something you want to chance doing yourself without the manual, talk to Steve at VAS. He does a great job on vintage Japanese TA's (likely most all were made by Jelco) at reasonable prices. Rewired my Stax with silver Valhalla wire last year.
 
I’ll keep that in mind. I’m living in Denmark, so if i has to ship outside the EU, tax will be an issue, about 27% of the value.
 
When we send things out of the country the tax is only on the cost of the repairs. However, am sure there are quality techs in the EU that can handle the work. Just have to find one. Good luck. Plus, this is very much the slow time of the year on this (and all other) forum. Perhaps someone who is familiar with the Denon TAs will see and have more info.
 
I know it’s an old arm, and it might be old stiff grease that is to blame, but i’m not sure how to dissasemble the arm correctly. The arm seems to be moving freely and it is not the arm lifter that’s obstructing.
By "old stiff grease", I assume you mean there's old grease in the arm's vertical bearings...? Where else could old grease affect needle pressure (technically called "vertical tracking force" and abbreviated VTF)?

Those bearing are normally "dry", with no lubricant of any kind, even light oil much less grease. The only place grease is used on a turntable (in my experience) is on a fully-automatic table with lots of moving parts underneath. Yours is fully-manual, with no additional parts.

Does the arm float freely when set to 0 grams? Or is there any resistance?

Taking the arm apart seems drastic at this point. Let's see if we can diagnose the problem first before rushing the patient into surgery.
 
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You are right about the bearings being dry. It was an unqualyfied guess :-)
The arm moves freely and i did not notice anything wrong when setting it up.
Has done this job plenty of times :-)
I only noticed it when looking at vta that the pu was very close to the record. Measured the trackingforce that i set to 2 grams, now being 2,8 grams. I then adjusted to 2 grams, played one side and measured again. This time it was 2,5 approx. Again set it to 2 grams and went to work. Later today i’ll have a look to see if it has changed.
 
That is quite strange. To change like that I would guess there is some sort of tension in the wiring that the horizontal movement must be changing. Especially as you've stated the queuing lift is fully disengaged during your VTF measurements. That, or your cat is playing tricks on you. They are evil that way.
 
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Here is a the pic of Phillip Holmes (Mockingbird Distribution LLC) DP80 with SA1-2. Phillip brings in the Sorane & GrooveMaster tonearms and other products. This is an early VPI suspended plinth, which looks to be the same as my HW-19 IV plinth without the pulley hole. Phillip tells me he recapped his DP80 due to leaking caps. Probably should pop my DP80 open and check the physical condition of its caps to be on the safe side.

View attachment 1504806

Phillip is recapping my DP 1000 as we speak.....

I’m going the “least amount of electronics possible” route...pairing it with a jelco 750e...

love Denon TT’s...
 
Sadly the trackingforce is still not good.
I have looked some more on the arm, and there is some play(speeling) horisontally. Also the 2 screws on the side of the arm is broken. They were hidden by the chrome thing. I have contacted the seller from the bay, hoping to get help, refund or what we can figure out. To be honest, i would prefer the arm to be fixed, by myself, if they can get me the spareparts and manuals. 29970BA4-0F8B-4F6A-BB0D-3587726F8265.jpeg 24C2E301-ECA2-4C8E-AE95-36B1D0FF3244.jpeg
 
Strange that both lock-nuts were removed, and lost. Someone, who didn't know what he was doing, really wanted to "play" with the bearing adjustment. They may be hard to replace, but it's a metric thread and you could use hex-nuts. You can find them at any good hardware store, and they'll be easier to adjust without a special tool, which may also be hard to find. You could use a small socket-head to loosen/tighten, with a (looks like) Allen key through it for the adjusting.

Still, I don't see how any of the defects you describe can account for the VTF "changing itself" while playing a record. This may be one of those gremlins that just disappears when you reinstate the arm to good condition, and you'll never know why — no AHA! moment, which can be frustrating — but Oh Well, It's Working Now is even better.
 
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:-)
The two lock nuts was in place, but since the two allenscrews is half broken, they have no real effect. When pushing the arm towards the back of the tt, there is some play. If i adjust the vtf and then moves the arm up, down and sideways the vtf changes and the arm loweres slowly. Something is rotten in Denmark, as some might say :-)
 
Phillip is recapping my DP 1000 as we speak.....

I’m going the “least amount of electronics possible” route...pairing it with a jelco 750e...

love Denon TT’s...
Philip is a good guy, but that's a long way to ship for a recap. Several capable folks local to us (Phila-NYC region) could have done that for you.
 
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Strange that both lock-nuts were removed, and lost. Someone, who didn't know what he was doing, really wanted to "play" with the bearing adjustment. They may be hard to replace, but it's a metric thread and you could use hex-nuts. You can find them at any good hardware store, and they'll be easier to adjust without a special tool, which may also be hard to find. You could use a small socket-head to loosen/tighten, with a (looks like) Allen key through it for the adjusting.

Still, I don't see how any of the defects you describe can account for the VTF "changing itself" while playing a record. This may be one of those gremlins that just disappears when you reinstate the arm to good condition, and you'll never know why — no AHA! moment, which can be frustrating — but Oh Well, It's Working Now is even better.

On the picture you can see the two screws, being broken and there is some rust og old grease on the conic part.
055A244E-A91D-48CF-94E0-7568BAD84774.jpeg
 
Philip is a good guy, but that's a long way to ship for a recap. Several capable folks local to us (Phila-NYC region) could have done that for you.

I agree, of All the inquiry emails I sent out Phillip wrote back....I over-pack, it will be safe, no question it’s a pain
 
On the picture you can see the two screws, being broken and there is some rust og old grease on the conic part.
Weird that someone would manage to break those set-screws. That would take quite a bit of force. May be difficult to find proper replacements. You could grind off the broken ends and cut a new slot. There are plenty of threads, so that would not create any strength problems.
 
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That looks totally abused to me and who knows what damage has been done to the bearings. It takes a lot of force to break out the hex portion, a lot less force will damage the bearings. I would budget for another tonearm. That would explain your wandering VTF.

BillWojo
 
That looks totally abused to me and who knows what damage has been done to the bearings. It takes a lot of force to break out the hex portion, a lot less force will damage the bearings. I would budget for another tonearm. That would explain your wandering VTF.

BillWojo

You are right. It takes some force to brake them. I work at a metal workshop, so its no task to make new ones. The thread is metric M3 and the are 7 mm long. The pointy end is 30 degrees. Next week i will have some new ones. Then i’ll investigate wether the bearings is broken too. I have contacted the seller from the Bay. Until now, no answer. If still no answer next week, i’ll use my buyers protection and give him crap review. I still think they need a chance to explain and correct this. If not, i’d prefer another arm, same model. Its my first 12” arm and they are not that expensive. I know they still have other da-308 on the shelf :-)
 
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