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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

5700 said:
Until now, no answer. If still no answer next week, i’ll use my buyers protection and give him crap review. I still think they need a chance to explain and correct this. If not, i’d prefer another arm, same model. Its my first 12” arm and they are not that expensive. I know they still have other da-308 on the shelf :)
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Good luck with new screws and the seller. Having another, perhaps he will just send you a good TA. If you make replacement screws they may need to be hardened so they don't end up with 'dimples' from the bearings.
 
5700 said:
Next week i will have some new ones. Then i’ll investigate wether the bearings is broken too.
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I'm sure the bearings are damaged. You can see in the photo that the cones (the pointy ends) are pretty rough. If they were screwed into the bearings with so much force, the tiny balls in the bearings were definitely damaged. Those little bearings are fragile, only designed for normal tonearm use, which is a light load.

You can probably find new bearings — they're the nested-balls type — and as you say new screws are pretty easy to make. But obviously a new arm is the best solution... they owe you one, and they have one.
 
bimasta said:
I'm sure the bearings are damaged. You can see in the photo that the cones (the pointy ends) are pretty rough. If they were screwed into the bearings with so much force, the tiny balls in the bearings were definitely damaged. Those little bearings are fragile, only designed for normal tonearm use, which is a light load.

You can probably find new bearings — they're the nested-balls type — and as you say new screws are pretty easy to make. But obviously a new arm is the best solution... they owe you one, and they have one.
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The tings on the screws is old grease og rust. There is no marks on them. An thats a bit weird :-)
I wil give the seller until tuesday, after that i’ll use the Bay to make the pressure needed
 
Keep us posted. If things don't work out with the seller please let us know who it is so we can stay away from. Good luck with all.
 
MX117.MC7150 said:
Keep us posted. If things don't work out with the seller please let us know who it is so we can stay away from. Good luck with all.
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Some good news just got in.
The seller has afsked me to get it repaired and that they will cover the cost.
He might not be aware of the high hourly salery we have i Denmark. We pay around 45% in taxes, so it will rapidly get expensive. I have promised him a quote.
 
Is there a trick to taking off the platter on the DP75? I want to inspect the foam between the two. But I can’t lift it off. Seems like there is a trick to removing it and I don’t want to break anything.
 
If it's like the DP80, it's just a good hard pull up — so hard you think you might break something, like your fingers.

Also, there aren't nice round hole to grip, but rectangular ones that are too narrow. And this part always makes me paranoid — your fingers will be on the magnetic-tape speed-code, if you aren't super careful. I've heard the magnetic strip is almost indestructible, except if totally degaussed somehow — but I still don't want to go near it.

Read a story about a guy who got a "new" used table, thought the brown strip was rust, and started sanding it off. It was almost all gone when a friend said "Omigod, what are you doing?!!"

It still worked perfectly. Maybe apocryphal.
 
bimasta said:
If it's like the DP80, it's just a good hard pull up — so hard you think you might break something, like your fingers.

Also, there aren't nice round hole to grip, but rectangular ones that are too narrow. And this part always makes me paranoid — your fingers will be on the magnetic-tape speed-code, if you aren't super careful. I've heard the magnetic strip is almost indestructible, except if totally degaussed somehow — but I still don't want to go near it.

Read a story about a guy who got a "new" used table, thought the brown strip was rust, and started sanding it off. It was almost all gone when a friend said "Omigod, what are you doing?!!"

It still worked perfectly. Maybe apocryphal.
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There's a reason why the magnetic stripe looks rusty:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_tape

"The magnetic side of most tapes (typically of an oxide material, and hence called the oxide side) is magnetically manipulated by a tape head to store the information. The magnetic material used was initially iron oxide, though chromium and other materials have been used in some tapes".
 
Hi,

I am a new DP75 owner. The thing is, I bought the DP75 and DK300 base separately, and they are currently at the proxy shipper in Japan. Can someone please tell me the dimensions for the 3 screws that attach the motor unit to the plinth? I am hoping that I can work with the proxy shipper to acquire them and have them attach it. Otherwise, they have to be shipped in 2 separate boxes, and the shipping cost is more than I was expecting.

Thanks!
Ben
 
@Ben Vinyl Engine has a template for the TT and Plinth, and position of the 3 holes you mention. Please look at it and see if it meets your needs. I haven't seen it, it may be to scale. If not, I can measure mine for you.

2 Min later — Forget Vinyl Engine, their template doesn't show the holes for the screws, only the large cut-out for the TT, and simply says "Measure your own holes."

Yes, I can measure them in my DP80, but not in relation to a Plinth, because I don't use a plinth. I use it free-standing. So it wouldn't help you — the TT might not be centered correctly in your plinth.

Someone who has the DP 75/80, mounted on a plinth, must measure the holes for you, AND where those holes go in relation to the plinth. They will probably have to remove their TT from the plinth, and give you the positions of the holes they drilled into the plinth.

Sorry for the complicated explanation, you're asking a "simple question" that's more complicated than it seems. Try to get their attention with a —

HELP post.
 
You question isn't as simple as it seems. I have a DP80 but don't use a plinth, I use it free-standing. So I can't help you.

Someone who has a 75/80 already mounted on a plinth must do it. They will probably have to remove the TT from the plinth first, and measure where they drilled the holes when they mounted it.

That's a lot of work, sorry to say. But there some nice guys on this thread who may be willing.
 
theophile said:
There's a reason why the magnetic stripe looks rusty:

"The magnetic side of most tapes (typically of an oxide material, and hence called the oxide side) is magnetically manipulated by a tape head to store the information. The magnetic material used was initially iron oxide, though chromium and other materials have been used in some tapes".
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Yes, of course — when we use Tape, we record music on Rust. It's as primitive as the LP, where we drag a rock through a scratch in a piece of plastic.

Yet both have a "charm" that Digital can't match.

But my worry was that touching the oxide, getting skin-oils on it etc, would ruin it. I retold the story of the guy who sanded the "rust" off, and the time-code with it — and it still worked — to reassure myself. And others.

But I still do my damndest not to touch it when handling the platter. I don't think your Yamaha uses the "rust strip" so you don't have to think about it, and maybe you don't even know what I'm going on about.
 
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I think @mackat is actually looking for the screw size and type. I also had to supply my own screws. I used #8 x 1/2 inch wood screws. I'm sure 3/4 inch would have worked fine as well. Now lets imagine the holes in this plinth were drilled a different size. Whatever, all you really need to do is rummage around and find a wood screw that grabs into the exiting hole. Whatever head style happens to be available can be applied, given they end up hidden under the platter. Nothing special needed.
 
I appreciate the information, @bimasta and @Legrace! I am indeed looking for the screw type and size, though from the information you have provided me, it seems that this may have more to do with the plinth than the turntable itself. Of course, when you make your own plinth, you can use whatever size screw will fit through the hole in the turntable and secure it. I’m sure that the factory DK-300 plinth, though, had specific sized holes drilled at the factory for this. Hopefully I will be able to find someone who can measure the screws from their DK-300.

Thank you again!
 
I was referring to the ones I used in my DK plinth that I also sourced from a shop in Japan. I assume your holes are the same size. The what if scenario was just to say you have a fair amount of latitude in what to apply. ie as in an imperial size screw vs metric like I used worked just fine because tolerance here is not critical.
 
bimasta said:
If it's like the DP80, it's just a good hard pull up — so hard you think you might break something, like your fingers.

Also, there aren't nice round hole to grip, but rectangular ones that are too narrow. And this part always makes me paranoid — your fingers will be on the magnetic-tape speed-code, if you aren't super careful. I've heard the magnetic strip is almost indestructible, except if totally degaussed somehow — but I still don't want to go near it.

Read a story about a guy who got a "new" used table, thought the brown strip was rust, and started sanding it off. It was almost all gone when a friend said "Omigod, what are you doing?!!"

It still worked perfectly. Maybe apocryphal.
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I have been yanking it and I feel like I'm going to break the drive unit. It must have seized or something over time.I just tried again and it is stuck completely. I feel like I'm going to rip the whole drive unit out of the plinth... Any other ideas?
 
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