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DIY Array-O-Wave. Yesterday's progress - pix

Bwa, ha, ha, ha, ha! I have 16 of these in the project closet. Very Cool Layout!

I bought some cheap super tweeters for mine. Since I have much less woodworking skills and tools than you do I haven't done anything with them yet.

Please update this thread! I might be moved to find someone who can help me mount my speakers.

Also, how did you wire them (edit: I saw the schematic)? I am running a 2A3 tube amp and was scratching my head over series parallel arrangements. I assume the tweeter is just a high pass across the + and - terminals with the 4" running full range, right (edit: I see you have a full crossover)? Maybe not?
 
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Hi Grainger49, I bored the holes with a 4" hole saw. I did the same for the wave guide, then cut it square with a jig saw. This is the simplest build (woodworking wise) I've ever done. Anyone with a drill press, hole saw, and jig saw can help you out.

The crossover is the stock Econowave crossover and is working great. You just wire the mids like the schem and attached the + and - to the ewave crossover. I have been listening in the garage without subs and I could definatly live with them as is. By tonight I will have them set up in the big room with subs and MUCH better amps and CD player.

One of my crossover (used) is not bumping the highs the way it way designed but other than that, They rock.

I bet that if you posted asking for help in your area with the woodwork, someone would step up. I'd do it if we lived closer. Good luck.


The first link is to the crossover and the second link is to the eWave thread. All the good links are on the first page.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=151281&d=1242968714

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150939


PS, George is bringing over his 2A3 in the near future and I will let you know how it sounds.
 
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Very Cool Dennis, Andy said they sounded quite good, we'll get to hear them Saturday?
 
That is the plan for now Keg. I won't have room for the subs but they sound good without them, just not the deep bass. I was going to do some tweeking to them between now and then but I just picked up three days of work, so they will have to come as is. See you then.
 
I'd love to hear those

but I won't be at the SMAC meet on Sat. Family obligations.
Keep an eye on George around power tools. He just told me he risked a pinky on a table saw yesterday.

BTW, I like the idea of stain, but wouldn't some nice flames be appropriate? Big red and yellow flame job all up the front?
 
Geez Ross, you were reading my mind. I've been thinking of a nice custom paint job. If you are still working near me, stop by.
 
I'd like to hear them for sure. I'm at a different work location until Monday. I'll drop you a line & maybe come by for a listen.
Regarding the D210/D220 comparison, the difference is very subtle in measurement & almost not there audibly. If there's missing top end I'd look for the problem in the crossover. I can bring a pair of 220s for comparison but they'll probably sound the same with the same WG and XO.
 
It is a crossover problem Ross. I figured it out late last night. I am home from work now and will resolder all the joints and see what changes. The one with the good crossover has great highs. I real like these speakers and am not even running the subs yet. It would not bother me on bit if I had no subs. Good tight bass. The WG integreat with them better than any eWaves I'ver heard so far and I don't even have L pads on them.


George told me he almost lost digits. He is normally VERY careful. He is thinking about building a pair of these but will the PE Triska Sub componants on the baffle board into a small box on the bottom. 1 foot square: not bad for an apartment or condo.
The crossovers on the first ones I built for the ESS AMTs. Just like the ESS, now that I know they sound good, I will order good parts.
 
Dennis what parts are you needing/wanting for your "new" xover variation?
(Might be able to bring parts Saturday)
 
Driving them with a real amp should yield huge improvements.

Yep, I was very surprised at how nice they sounded when I stopped over Tuesday, Nice sound with surprisingly good imaging and soundstage. And all off a sony boombox!!

I've never been impressed by the big line arrays I've run into at AKFest, but these were as much of a surprise as some of the big boys were a disappointment.

Tomorrow should be a nice test run for them.

One thing we did talk about was opening up the backs. Right now there's not a lot of breathing room as there is very little of the basket open and that's buried down in the 3/4" depth of the mounting hole. I suggested Denny get a champher bit and hog out the sides to open them up, kind of a reverse flare, but i'd almost make a whole second test board for that as they do sound very nice as is.
 
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Dennis what parts are you needing/wanting for your "new" xover variation?
(Might be able to bring parts Saturday)

There are two issues Keg. I used the standard eWave crossover and they are set for 8ohm woofs. With the 8 drivers in series/paralel the whole line is 4ohm(measured) So on the woof side of the xover, the cap needs to double to 24uf and the coil needs to cut in half to .75mH.

The other issue is the bump up in highs is not happening on the wave guide. That is the 1.5uf cap and 16ohm resister. I think one of them is bad.

The other side sounds great in the highs so that one is doing it's job. I am not using L pads. Maybe, just maybe the horn could come down 3db, but I am still listening to them in the garage. When I get them in the family room, that will most likely change with all the carpet and drapes.
 
Yep, I was very surprised at how nice they sounded when I stopped over Tuesday, Nice sound with surprisingly good imaging and soundstage. And all off a sony boombox!!

I've never been impressed by the big line arrays I've run into at AKFest, but these were as much of a surprise as some of the big boys were a disappointment.

Tomorrow should be a nice test run for them.

One thing we did talk about was opening up the backs. Right now there's not a lot of breathing room as there is very little of the basket open and that's buried down in the 3/4" depth of the mounting hole. I suggested Denny get a champher bit and hog out the sides to open them up, kind of a reverse flare, but i'd almost make a whole second test board for that as they do sound very nice as is.

I am thinking about another board altogether. The holes for the drivers are just a bit too big and if I get the right size hole saw, I will mount them from the back and do the round over in front. They are sounding better and better every day. Still don't have the subs in and still running them off the boombox.....just sitting there shaking my head.:thmbsp:
 
There are two issues Keg. I used the standard eWave crossover and they are set for 8ohm woofs. With the 8 drivers in series/paralel the whole line is 4ohm(measured) So on the woof side of the xover, the cap needs to double to 24uf and the coil needs to cut in half to .75mH.

The other issue is the bump up in highs is not happening on the wave guide. That is the 1.5uf cap and 16ohm resister. I think one of them is bad.

The other side sounds great in the highs so that one is doing it's job. I am not using L pads. Maybe, just maybe the horn could come down 3db, but I am still listening to them in the garage. When I get them in the family room, that will most likely change with all the carpet and drapes.

Have you tried changing out the crossover with the other side? Just wondering...Would definitely reveal it as the problem.

Russellc
 
Not yet Russell. Hadn't really thought of that. Today is the annual SMAC picnik and I am bringing them. There will be a whole gagle of us messing with them and I am sure we will figure it out. I have had MANY low to VERY high end speakers in my room over the years and this particular combo is up there in the top two.

So, one of two things. The synergy of these speakers just works, or I can't hear for ****.
 
Driver DCR is usually lower than rated impedance. Most 8 Ohm drivers measure around 5 Ohms resistance. What matters most is the impedance in the XO range. I lent Kegger my WT3 unit. You need to run that on the woofer array with a laptop & see what the real impedance is at 2K or so. Tha twill tell you how to adjust the XO component values.
 
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