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DIY Array-O-Wave. Yesterday's progress - pix

I am thinking about another board altogether. The holes for the drivers are just a bit too big and if I get the right size hole saw, I will mount them from the back and do the round over in front. They are sounding better and better every day. Still don't have the subs in and still running them off the boombox.....just sitting there shaking my head.:thmbsp:

That should work. Those backs really have a gauntlet to run though; ain't much room at all for the sound to squeeze out.

BTW, a 45 degree champher would open them more than a round-over as it starts opening the hole right away and not on the radius. I have the bit if you need to borrow one.
 
That should work. Those backs really have a gauntlet to run though; ain't much room at all for the sound to squeeze out.

BTW, a 45 degree champher would open them more than a round-over as it starts opening the hole right away and not on the radius. I have the bit if you need to borrow one.

Or oversize the holes and mount the drivers on inserts of 1/8" Masonite. That will fix the back wave interference problem.

And add flames.
 
BTW Dennis, I called mine Econoline Waves. You're welcome to the name. :D
 
Or oversize the holes and mount the drivers on inserts of 1/8" Masonite. That will fix the back wave interference problem.

And add flames.

I've seen masonite used with these, if they're the ones with the approx. 1/8 inch rim on the front. Another approach for rear mounting would be to use a Jasper Jig, or something similar, and route a rabate on the back for that rim prior to cutting the actual hole for the driver. Then use the 45 degree bit to flair it out on the front.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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Well, I brought the OblaWaves to the SMAC picnik today and they worked really well. I was concerned that they would not work very well outdoors, but they did!!!

Without the walls of the room, the bass was down, but still was there. I had a sub there to fill in the low end and at one point it started to rain, not much but non the less, we brought the Oblawaves and sub in the garage. It was only a spit here and there and before long we brought the speakers back out but left the sub in the garage hooked up and running. So, the speakers were outside next to the garage and near the back, and the sub was inside the garage, and it sounded like the sub signal was coming from the speakers. It was the damnest thing I'd ever hear.

I really think this is a winning combo.
 
I really liked the way they sounded Dennis; much better than the Polk 7s that replaced them when you left.

Ya did good, buddy!! :thmbsp:
 
yes definately very nice sounding speakers. i was quite surprised at the amount of bass those little drivers produce.
 
Just got home, I'm drunk, I think...:beer:

But I believe they sounded quite good, an not just a yah a buddy built them quite good ..

I liked them quite a bit, to me very similar frequency response to the polk 7's, I liked both.
(except the bottom end, the polks defiantly fill out the bottom the linowav's don't)
 
Hey Keg, I thing all your amps sounded great. I really like the new KT66 prototype. I've got some ideas about a chassis that would take it to a whole noffer leva. I am going to the U.P. Tuesday but will buzz you later this week. After I got home from the meet, my daughter showed up from college and I have to take her back Tuesday.

Yep, I thought they sounded good to, but not nearly as much bass as the Polks without the sub. It was really freaky that with the sub 30 feet away and inside the garage, it sounded like it was right next to the speakers.

I think we have the best audio club going. Great people and all so friendly. I always look forward to these meeting (we call them SMAC meetings, but it should be SMAC party).
 

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That looks like a great way to spend a Saturday!

I can't help but think of you guys getting together and SMACing each other around, kind of like Fight Club.
 
What A party it was, even new members, like WiredBecker all the way from cali!..:thmbsp:

----------

P.S. The prototype is just that, I'm having chassis done up for the rest of them though.
 
Hey Keg, I thing all your amps sounded great. I really like the new KT66 prototype. I've got some ideas about a chassis that would take it to a whole noffer leva. I am going to the U.P. Tuesday but will buzz you later this week. After I got home from the meet, my daughter showed up from college and I have to take her back Tuesday.

Yep, I thought they sounded good to, but not nearly as much bass as the Polks without the sub. It was really freaky that with the sub 30 feet away and inside the garage, it sounded like it was right next to the speakers.

I think we have the best audio club going. Great people and all so friendly. I always look forward to these meeting (we call them SMAC meetings, but it should be SMAC party).

Shouldn't you put monikers on the first two pictures? I know who djnagle is since he is pictured in the OP.

Inquiring minds want to know.
 
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Could not believe the cost verses performance ratio achieved by your build Dennis. Your correct, the sub with its garage/boat diffusser worked really well.

Array-o-Waves, LOL was calling them Line-eh-Waves all day.
 
OK, I now have a long term plan for these.

1. Buy new plywood and mount the drivers from the back with the front holes rounded over with a roundover bit.

2. Get the Z-over boards and tweek the crossovers with really good componants with the right values for the lower ohm ratings of the mids.

3. Since my wife Annie and I are both artist, we agreed to each take a baffle board and use them for a canvas and do a painting on each. She will do her thing and I will do mine (without looking at eachothers before they are done) then clear what ever we come up with.

4. Afix adjustable back support to adjust tilt angle.

5. Enjoy them.
 
The Oblawaves are very cool! Now, a question: what was the thinking behind the baffle-board dimensions, and driver placement?

(I have 20 3" drivers laying around, and this would be the perfect project to use them with!)
 
Hey J, the size of the baffle board was what was available at Home Depot pre cut. I knew I wanted at least 3/4 thick just for stiffness and at least 4' tall to accomodate all the drivers and the wave guide with at least (and a minimum) of one driver height betweet the top and bottom of the drivers away from the top and bottom edge. From there I punched in the dimentions in to the EDGE program (see link) and messed with placement until I got the flattest responce posible WITHOUT using the comp filter.

The EDGE program is free and easy to use. If I placed the drivers in the middle of the board, the responce curve would look like a sharp peak. It can be flattened out with the comp filter OR by off setting the drivers.

Do you know the QTS and Xmax of the drivers? Those two paramiters should be fairly high for good open baffles.

PM me if you have questions about the EDGE program. Cheers.

http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm


Also, I am thinking about adding 12" to the bottom of the baffle board and making a 12" x 12" box with the Triska componants in it. That would fill out the bottom end. I am doing all this as we most likely move in the next year to a smaller place. All the kids are gone now and we just don't need this much space. Here is the Triska sub link.

http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=TheTriskaSub
 
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Thanks much! This is the type of information I was hoping to find. The speakers--they are pulls out of a Yamaha HTIB setup that a friend gave me (just the speakers). The manufacturer is "205", but I couldn't find that in any of the online databases listed by Google. And, I don't have a woofer tester either. Kind of a shot in the dark, but a shot I'm probably willing to take.

I'll play with EDGE and see what comes out the other side.

Thanks again!
 
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