• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

dumptruck is finally building ewaves for real

That's probably too thick. I could do Tolex, if worse comes to worse. I actually kind of wanted to do that, but I figured paint would be easier and cheaper. ha.
 
Surely that can't happen over the rounded woofer cutout, can it? (I know you haven't seen pics in a while here - sorry). I should go check on what happened with the last round of paint at lunch, but it wasn't looking promising when I left it...
 
No, I quit inserts. I'm doing screws into wood, and should a problem develop later on, I'll find a way to make nuts and bolts work, but I'm pretty sure they won't quit. I was only using four screws the whole time I had one put together for testing, and it was solid.
 
They will be fine with no inserts considering its plywood. The gaskets should be enough to seal the deal. Awesome woodworking dude! :thmbsp: keep it up!
 
Much to my surprise, a bit of super fine steel wool over the textured black went a long way. It's not spectacular, but now when the light catches the face, it doesn't have big blotches all over the place, which is really all I wanted. It does pick up hand smudges very easily, though.. My phone's camera isn't crazy about blacks, but I have gave it a shot:

attachment.php


By the way, don't use anything even remotely abrasive to wash a QSC waveguide, or you'll be sorry.
 

Attachments

  • baffle finish1.jpg
    baffle finish1.jpg
    120.4 KB · Views: 164
Photo Update

Here's what the bracing looks like. Pretty minimal, really:

attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php


Welcome to absorption town:

attachment.php
attachment.php


Obviously not everything is in finished state here. The rear baffle and where it mounts to will be finished last, after ports and who knows what else are not going to be changed. The shroud taped over the woofer is because I was afraid of denim shedding into the large woofer vents. I'll have to figure out something for that. Oh, and I messed up the glamour shot (someday I'll get a proper camera...), so for now all you get is this tiny one:

attachment.php


This is much easier to evaluate by ear with the insulation and bracing in. The lower midrange is sounding a little thick/growly, and the overall clarity doesn't seem on the same level as the first crossover. I went back to take measurements (had not measured the most recent crossover), and it turns out that the drivers aren't summing very well at all now. The only response problem it causes directly on-axis is an oversized dip in 500-700Hz region, but it's not good. So, need to re-investigate my kludgey BSC crossover next.
 

Attachments

  • inside_empty3.jpg
    inside_empty3.jpg
    138.1 KB · Views: 314
  • inside_empty2.jpg
    inside_empty2.jpg
    117 KB · Views: 697
  • inside_empty1.jpg
    inside_empty1.jpg
    106.5 KB · Views: 313
  • stuffed1.jpg
    stuffed1.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 313
  • stuffed2.jpg
    stuffed2.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 312
  • assembled1.jpg
    assembled1.jpg
    64.3 KB · Views: 236
That's the first time I've seen that Bonded Logic used, read about it quite a bit. Good job on taking that plunge.

It is pretty efficient stuff, do you have pre-stuffing graphs to compare the stuffed state?

Oh, and nice job on the speakers in general!
 
That's the first time I've seen that Bonded Logic used, read about it quite a bit. Good job on taking that plunge.
Compared to regular pink R13 glass, it rules. It quite obviously absorbs more when you put a piece in front of a speaker, and you can get it all up in it with your bare face and hands. Hey Bonded Logic, new tagline for ya there.

It is pretty efficient stuff, do you have pre-stuffing graphs to compare the stuffed state?
No, and I think most of the difference would be nearly invisible in my measurements, either from being gated out or filtered out as noise. That said, there's no stuffing in the second speaker, so I can and will post that comparison before I'm done here.
 
Last edited:
Compared to regular pink R13 glass, it rules. It quite obviously absorbs more when you put a piece in front of a speaker, and you can get it all up in it with your bare face and hands. Hey Bonded Logic, new tagline for ya there.


No, and I think most of the difference would be nearly invisible in my measurements, either from being gated out or filtered out as noise. That said, there's no stuffing in the second speaker, so I can and will post that comparison before I'm done here.


Is this the stuff?
http://www.bondedlogic.com/construction-products/ultratouch-denim-insulation
 
Here's what the bracing looks like. Pretty minimal, really...

Really nice work. Those cabs must be HEAVY. I'm following your thread with interest! I'm making my own ewaves and am borrowing ideas from all the other builds. I have a horizontal brace similar to yours but just had one large vertical brace. I never thought of doing angled braces from the top/bottom to sides. I may redo mine and borrow that. Very nice.

What did you use to put the insulation in? Did you staple it in? Did you just zip-tie it over the horizontal brace? Is there any fear of having the denim over your crossover (I assume that's mounted on the back panel?)? Could the hot/warm resistors be an issue with the denim?

Is there a wrong way to add insulation? In looking at things like Wayne Parham's Pi speakers, not ever side has insulation added and I keep reading about only adding it to 3 sides only (e.g. bottom, opposite port side, back). Is it normal to add insulation around the horn? I really don't know much about these things though.

So may questions. :D
 
Re: dodog,

- Yep, they are over 100lbs each at this point

- The corner braces really only affect the area they cover, leaving an unbraced smaller panel between them (between two of them on opposite ends of a panel, the long way, I mean). There are more effective ways to go, but I was running out of room.

- The insulation is glued on with 3M 77, although in some places where work needs to be done it is just tucked in for now. The piece around the cross brace is tied on with hemp twine :smoke:. It is treated for fire resistance, but my crossovers are staying external so that's not something I considered.

- Sure, the wrong way to add insulation is the way that screws something up :D. I'm not going to pretend I'm in a position to say much more about that. I will be trying to investigate bass response further, but it does not seem like it was affected by these changes and if that is the case, I think all of this insulation can only be good in these speakers.

- As far as I'm concerned, yes it is normal to insulate the waveguide. There is certainly no advantage to sound from the woofer passing through it, nor reflecting off it.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom