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Econowaves, but which drivers?

So... The 18sound aluminum waveguide DOES work then? I'll just have to measure and calculate xo components myself? Can/should I still use the PCB that wiredbecker is selling?

If so I'll order stuff for a microphone later this week and make sure I got it all right. Then maybe order some drivers from England.
 
I haven't been very active here recently, but I sure have been thinking alot about this project.
My first idea was to use the Delta 2512 together with CSS SDX10, both ported. But after doing some research about group delay I quickly realised that was not very optimal. I would've been able to play really loud but probably with slow bass.

I listened to the REL Gibraltar G1 sub last thursday. It impressed me that a 12" closed subwoofer could deliver such pressure!

I started re-thinking my project.
Started looking at sealed enclosures and doing even more research about group delay.
I have now come to a solution which gives me a maximum difference in group delay of about 4ms.
This solution wont give me that much deep-bass and requires a little bit more amplifier power. I can play 100dB+ above 20Hz but that would mean 350 watts into the subwoofers. But in my 16sqm room I guess that will be well enough.

As for subwoofers I have looked at the CSS TRIO12 which models nicely in a sealed box and handles 350W (its max PE) without a HP filter.

As for Econowave woofer I have looked at both the Deltalite 2510 and 2512. Group delay is pretty much the same (2512 being about 1ms closer to the TRIO12) but the 2512 plays a bit louder than the 2510.
But one thing I don't know so much about is crossover and "lobing" of higher frequencies. The 2512 has a much larger cone than the 2510 and so lobing should occur earlier. When does this lobing start to occur?

If we exclude price, SPL, cone displacement and all that and only look at sound quality. Which would be best? 2512 or 2510?
 
The ideal driver spacing for this style of speaker places the nulls from driver overlap at or just beyond the waveguide cutoff, so that the nulls themselves are not having much influence on anything, and secondary lobes outside of the nulls are very minimal. This can be done with a 12" driver, and even with a 15" if you are careful. With a 10", the optimal spacing is generally not going to be as tight.
http://www.pispeakers.com/Pi_Speakers_Info.pdf (p 13-15 especially)
 
If you haven't already decided on a HF driver, do consider the D220Ti w/ screw-on waveguide. I use them, and after easy mods they're fantastic. ALL of the high-end ragged-ness is gone, and they are VERY smooth. It's just a matter of applying damping (rope caulk) to the driver and waveguide, and acoustically damping the diaphragm's chamber with thin foam or something like that.
 
As for measuring mic I'll go with the gainphile mic.
I will read that pispeaker article whenever I find the time to.

As for HF driver I've chosen the Celestion CDX1-1745.
 
Lots of time for thinking leads to new questions...

Since I will build a pair of subwoofers, performance below 80Hz is not needed. Therefore maybe it's better to go with a 10" woofer instead of a 12" for better mid-range?
Which Eminence (or 18sound or celestion or b&c) 10-12" driver has the best mid-range and has enough performance down to ~80Hz? Maximum price is £150/$230/€180 per driver.
 
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