Hmm, actually Elfa doesn't have as much as I thought. 65-471-03 and 65-471-45 would be fine for the capacitors, but the inductor selection does not look too good, and they don't carry any large non-inductive resistors. Seems like there's got to be some place in Sweden that would have everything you need at least except for the waveguides. You Scandinavians are far from strangers to speaker building, after all.
Econowaves, but which drivers?
- Thread starter Kalium
- Start date
What about this site? http://www.electrokit.com/en/
There is no place in Sweden that has the Eminence woofers, as far as I know, but they are available from Germany and England (England being the cheaper one). The Celestion tweeters are available in Sweden but at an insane price (almost twice as expensive as from England).
There is no place in Sweden that has the Eminence woofers, as far as I know, but they are available from Germany and England (England being the cheaper one). The Celestion tweeters are available in Sweden but at an insane price (almost twice as expensive as from England).
These guys appear to have the goods: http://www.hifikit.se/ They are even an eminence distributor, so they can probably get your woofer even if it isn't listed.
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As long as I have to buy the horns from parts-express it seems like I could just as well buy filter components there too (wont become any cheaper from hifikit).
I can mail hifikit and see what the deltalites would cost (if I remember correctly they're really expensive and will probably cost way more than from Germany or England).
It seems like I should put the main focus on trying to find the waveguides in Europe. The shipping from parts-express for waveguides only is $120 (if I add filter components shipping is $127).
I can mail hifikit and see what the deltalites would cost (if I remember correctly they're really expensive and will probably cost way more than from Germany or England).
It seems like I should put the main focus on trying to find the waveguides in Europe. The shipping from parts-express for waveguides only is $120 (if I add filter components shipping is $127).
Since http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/ are the cheapest on both the woofers and tweeters I will purchase from them. But, do they have any horn/waveguide suitable for this project? If not, maybe I should give it a try asking them if they can make a special order for me.
Also, the XO parts might be cheaper in Sweden after all. It costs around $130 while it costs around $165 from America. Although in the swedish store I think I picked cheaper/not-as-good components.
Also, the XO parts might be cheaper in Sweden after all. It costs around $130 while it costs around $165 from America. Although in the swedish store I think I picked cheaper/not-as-good components.
At ~£44 each including shipping they're still way cheaper than the QSC from Parts-express. Is the XT1086 similar, better or worse than the QSC?
How would filter values and components change?
Not very many people have used it, but it appears to work extremely well. You are trying to do this without measuring, right? The best that you could do, then, is something like this:
1. Get the drivers and waveguide so you can measure your exact driver spacing in three dimensions.
2. load Zilch's files for your woofer and for the DE250+XT1086 in PCD
3. Put in your driver offset measurements into PCD
4. Enter the initial crossovers using values mixed-and-matched from the ewave designs using your woofer and your waveguide
5. See what PCD is telling you, and adjust as needed.
6. order the crossover parts and hope for the best.
1. Get the drivers and waveguide so you can measure your exact driver spacing in three dimensions.
2. load Zilch's files for your woofer and for the DE250+XT1086 in PCD
3. Put in your driver offset measurements into PCD
4. Enter the initial crossovers using values mixed-and-matched from the ewave designs using your woofer and your waveguide
5. See what PCD is telling you, and adjust as needed.
6. order the crossover parts and hope for the best.
Not entirely without measuring. If you think it is a good idea I could easily build a measuring microphone the Gainphile way ( http://gainphile.blogspot.com/2008/11/cheap-and-accurate-speaker-measurement.html ) since that wouldn't cost very much at all really.
It's up to you. Using your own measurements will allow you to compute the acoustic offset between drivers precisely (in the same basic method as above). You'll also need a USB interface or something to get the mic working cleanly with software.
Personally, I decided there was little point in spending this much money without being able to measure. Now I'm caught up in a web of trying to measure some woofer resonances, but that's just me. See my build thread, and you'll see I'm not all that far ahead of you: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=387079
Personally, I decided there was little point in spending this much money without being able to measure. Now I'm caught up in a web of trying to measure some woofer resonances, but that's just me. See my build thread, and you'll see I'm not all that far ahead of you: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=387079
Acoustic offset as in the vertical distance between the drivers?
I saw that Zilch had back-mounted the woofer in his delite2512 and I guess that was for some sort of phase reason. If I get my own measurements, can I then mount it the normal way?
USB-interface, enlighten me! I'm all new to the microphone world and I have no idea what is needed more than the microphone itself.
I saw that Zilch had back-mounted the woofer in his delite2512 and I guess that was for some sort of phase reason. If I get my own measurements, can I then mount it the normal way?
USB-interface, enlighten me! I'm all new to the microphone world and I have no idea what is needed more than the microphone itself.
That is part of it, but you can measure that with a measuring stick. What's difficult to measure is the front-to-back (z) offset, because it depends on the actual acoustic front-to-back center of the drivers, which is around the middle of the voicecoil. As you vary the z-offset, the forward lobe moves up and down. If it moves a little off center, it simply changes where you would place/angle the speaker to listen to it. If it moves too much, you end up with a weird frequency response.
It depends on the z-offset that results, as above.
I use a calibrated condenser mic that requires a mic preamp with phantom power. A USB mic recording interface combines a mic preamp with a USB soundcard. It looks like the gainphile thing uses a battery and is outputting at something around line level into a USB DAC, but you'll have to ask him for more details on how to get that working. Generally, you need something outside your computer, or you'll end up with some pretty noisy measurements.
Alright...
We'll see if Gainphile visits this thread (is there any way to sort of "tag" him or "ping" him?) and can give us some more information about it.
I have an Asus Xonar STX if it helps.
That could potentially work very well.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
Hi,
That is an electret condenser capsule, which provides a mic level output. Those elements, also found in common measurement mics like I have, are not true condensers which require 48 volt phantom power, or thereabouts. The electrets are considered inferior for recording, however they can have a very flat response, which is what you want for measuring.
The Dayton or Behringer ECM measurement mics are so cheap and robustly built, it's hard to pass up their commercial packaging compared to strapping together the element, battery and some additional parts. But the latter is probably more fun because you put it together.
Well, if the Gainphile mic works fine for measuring I think I'll try that. A Behringer ECM would cost $90-100$ to buy while I think I could build the gainphile mic for less than half of that price. And if I understood correctly the Behringer needs pre-amp and phantom power while the Gainphile mic is just plug directly into computer?
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
All microphones need pre-amps. Various types of electret mics have pre-amps built in, but all provide only mic-level output. That means the output of all of these needs a pre-amp to achieve line level.
Many computers have pre-amps built in, for this purpose.
However, most people who have measuring systems use an external pre because those are usually less noisy, as dumptruck says.
Condensers require phantom power. All of the mics we are talking about are not "true" condensers, they are electret condensers.
The bottom line is that the electret you would build with the Panasonic capsule will give you excellent performance for a measuring system. Just speculation, but that Panasonic element is probably used in the commercially available mics I mentioned earlier.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microphone
Many computers have pre-amps built in, for this purpose.
However, most people who have measuring systems use an external pre because those are usually less noisy, as dumptruck says.
Condensers require phantom power. All of the mics we are talking about are not "true" condensers, they are electret condensers.
The bottom line is that the electret you would build with the Panasonic capsule will give you excellent performance for a measuring system. Just speculation, but that Panasonic element is probably used in the commercially available mics I mentioned earlier.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microphone
I'm not entirely sure... What I know of the Xonar STX it's very good for audio reproduction but not as good for recording...
But hey, if a mic pre-amp isn't too expensive I think I'll build the microphone as soon as possible and we'll see. I could always measure my current speakers
But hey, if a mic pre-amp isn't too expensive I think I'll build the microphone as soon as possible and we'll see. I could always measure my current speakers