Engine oil review.
- Thread starter Mr Boochie
- Start date
In my experience, the most significant oil-related failure is letting the oil level get too low.
It happens more often, for whatever reason than you would think.
I'll have to check out Rock Auto. I buy most auto parts from them and never thought to buy oil there too.
Motorcraft and other OEM filters are plenty good from a quality aspect AND are reasonably priced. Paying $15-$20 for a filter only being used for 5k miles is a waste, IMO. I pay around $4 each for Motorcraft filters in bulk numbers
Low oil is generally not the fault of the oil itself, though. That's usually a negligence issue on the part of the owner. Barring a sudden failure in, or external damage to, the engine that causes the level to drop astronomically fast, it's usually just someone not paying attention that causes this.
However, in the case I cited- it CAN be a direct result of changing oil types, that itself can cause damage. The engine can be full of oil- but if something has caused sediments/deposits to break loose and stop up vital oil passages- having enough quantity of oil isn't going to help...
Regards,
Gordon.
With todays cylinder activation and carbon from direct injection and oil dilution I wouldn’t risk it ! Not to mention low tension rings ! Vehicles are regressing back in durability of the engines ! And don’t get me started on undersized engines with turbos in large vehicles !
With todays cylinder activation and carbon from direct injection and oil dilution I wouldn’t risk it ! Not to mention low tension rings ! Vehicles are regressing back in durability of the engines ! And don’t get me started on undersized engines with turbos in large vehicles
my 1993 blazer would use 2 qts between changes moved from 5w30 to 10 w40 which is more appropriate for a 5.7 ltr with over 100k solved the issue !
And it passed all of its emission checks untill it fell off the list due to age last one was at 143k which it passed with flying colors it now has 165k still runs great ! Have never seen the check engine lite or antilock break lite come on while driving !
jayvis
Addicted Member
Well, I've risked it on the last eight new vehicles that I've owned. A quality full synthetic oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance is easily capable of protecting an engine for 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Granted, I haven't put 10,000 miles a year on a vehicle since I retired but the Lexus GS, Jeep Wrangler, & Toyota 4Runner that I bought new and later sold to relatives now have well over 100k miles on them and have never had any engine/oil related issues. And they still get one oil change a year or at 10,000 miles with full synthetic per the current owners. No competent car manufacturer is going to recommend this if they aren't confident in the results. I remember when most people claimed that car and oil companies were scamming people into believing they needed an oil change every 3000 miles. Now, when those companies tell you that you don't need to do that, the same people argue that it needs to be done.
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YY1
Addicted Member
All of my "old" cars get either Valvoline or Motorcraft syn blend.
The only car I have that requires a certain "spec" is my Ferrari designed Jeep 1.4 turbo.
Since the Ferrari spec oil is no longer sold here, I've had to "downgrade" to BMW spec Mobil 1.
I've been a 5K mile guy since "they" said it should be 3K.
Now I'm closer to 10K and my Jeep tells me when to change based on use and temps.
It agrees with me.
The only car I have that requires a certain "spec" is my Ferrari designed Jeep 1.4 turbo.
Since the Ferrari spec oil is no longer sold here, I've had to "downgrade" to BMW spec Mobil 1.
I've been a 5K mile guy since "they" said it should be 3K.
Now I'm closer to 10K and my Jeep tells me when to change based on use and temps.
It agrees with me.
Lab-tested oil samples are the gold standard for checking specific engine wear. Each metal has a characteristic origin within the motor.
There is one caveat. If you are on a long road trip and need a quart or two of oil, get any good quality oil, even if it's a different brand than you have in the car. Please don't wait to return home to fill it with your oil stock. Use any API Service SN oil, preferably in your current oil's (xW-YY) weight range.
You can always change the oil and filter once you get home.
Part of the Gm cylinder lifter problems are from oil that’s dirty also the timing phases on the v6 and cylinder wear on the direct injection Honda CRV diluted oil all I’m saying is some of the newer engines due need 5k changes and some of the turbo models recommend 3 k !Well, I've risked it on the last eight new vehicles that I've owned. A quality full synthetic oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance is easily capable of protecting an engine for 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Granted, I haven't put 10,000 miles a year on a vehicle since I retired but the Lexus GS, Jeep Wrangler, & Toyota 4Runner that I bought new and later sold to relatives now have well over 100k miles on them and have never had any engine/oil related issues. And both still get one oil change a year or at 10,000 miles with full synthetic per the current owners. No competent car manufacturer is going to recommend this if they aren't confident in the results. I remember when most people claimed that car and oil companies were scamming people into believing they needed an oil change every 3000 miles. Now, when those companies tell you that you don't need to do that, the same people argue that it needs to be done.
jayvis
Addicted Member
Hmmm. I'm not familiar with the engines you're referring to. I've had both four-cylinder and six-cylinder turbos that didn't have those requirements. Must be brand related.
I always take at least one quart with me, wherever I go, in each car. That will usually tide me over until I can get more.
Same for power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant and washer fluid, as well as a tire inflator compressor, and a ratchet strap. Got a bin in the trunk, they're always in. Also a toolbox containing all the normal hand tools, as well.
Regards,
Gordon.
Years ago, I went to an oil refinery down here in South NJ. I think it might have been Salem. This was for an alarm job. There were robots running around with pallets of oil on them. One pallet went past with Esso brand oil on it, I think it was an Esso refinery. Then another pallet went past with SuperTech (Walmart) oil on it. I asked the guy there if it was any different. He said no, it's exactly the same oil.
I personally use Motorcraft oil in my daily driver, semi synthetic blend.
I personally use Motorcraft oil in my daily driver, semi synthetic blend.
Yes, that is the proper preventative maintenance method.
I just brought this up because there was this customer when I worked a summer job with a mechanic many moons ago. He had just bought a new Porsche 911SC (a very nice car). The dealer put in some new production Mobil One oil (I think it was 5W-30). The service manager told him always to use this oil.
He was driving back from AZ when some road debris kicked up and damaged the crankcase. The car started leaking oil. By Indio, the oil light came on. But he decided not to add the Chevron Dino oil at the gas station, he kept driving the car. No one in Indio had that specific Mobil One oil.
He made it to San Bernadino, where the engine seized. A connecting rod shattered, and parts shot into the body panel. The crankcase was cracked in half.
The car was towed to the mechanic's shop. The autopsy showed a complete top-end meltdown, but the crankshaft was perfect—mic'ed to OEM specs. The mechanic told me, "This Mobil One is pretty good stuff, after all."
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