Engine oil review.

[DirtyErnie]

BTDT. 5w-40 Rotella T6 to stabilize the VCT system until I could get in and swap parts. Lab numbers looked fine. 40w is specified for those mills in the Middle East, per Ford.

running the _w-20 spec'd isn't as critical as people yell, and it's possibly suicidal after those cheap plastic tensioners spit out their gaskets and bleed off the oil pressure in the heads. Dunno. Lab numbers look great on the Quaker State synth 5w-30, they looked real good on the 5w-40 T6... 260,000+ miles

 

[leesonic]

Since we're posting pictures, Ford Focus 2010 with 208,000 miles on it back in April. Now has 215,000 miles. Valve cover gaskets are a common failure, but easy to change.

 

[gadget73]

possibly suicidal after those cheap plastic tensioners spit out their gaskets and bleed off the oil pressure in the heads.

yeah thats another common issue on these. Got to see that whole mess when a friend did an engine job in his Mustang. He got a cheap one with a ventilated block. The previous owner had put a supercharger on it and revved it past the point of no return. The "new" engine got fresh guides and tensioners because why not. One of the guides broke when it came out and the tensioner gaskets were squeezing out.

The super thick oil was commonly suggested as a "fix" for the early ones that had valve seal problems. Run molasses and it doesn't smoke so bad, but largely because its not getting oil up to the top end. They would stop smoking but it ended up causing further damage long term. The valve seal job is annoying but less bad than an engine job.

 

[Mr Boochie]

The super thick oil was commonly suggested as a "fix" for the early ones that had valve seal problems. Run molasses and it doesn't smoke so bad, but largely because its not getting oil up to the top end. They would stop smoking but it ended up causing further damage long term. The valve seal job is annoying but less bad than an engine job.

Remember this? Don't be the mechanic who has to fix the gooey mess when the engine finally expires.

 

[hopeless]

Well, I've risked it on the last eight new vehicles that I've owned. A quality full synthetic oil like Mobil 1 Extended Performance is easily capable of protecting an engine for 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. Granted, I haven't put 10,000 miles a year on a vehicle since I retired but the Lexus GS, Jeep Wrangler, & Toyota 4Runner that I bought new and later sold to relatives now have well over 100k miles on them and have never had any engine/oil related issues. And they still get one oil change a year or at 10,000 miles with full synthetic per the current owners. No competent car manufacturer is going to recommend this if they aren't confident in the results. I remember when most people claimed that car and oil companies were scamming people into believing they needed an oil change every 3000 miles. Now, when those companies tell you that you don't need to do that, the same people argue that it needs to be done.

Here's the thing. You need to increase the change intervals as the engine ages. Especially newer cars with low tension rings and direct injection. Doubly true with a turbo.
Funny thing, I quit using Mobil 1 on engines over 100k due to oil consumption issues. I changed to Valvoline, but have been using the stuff from Costco for the past 20,000 miles or so, quite successfully. 220k and use 1/2 qt every 5k. Well within acceptable levels. Subaru 2.5.

 

[GordonW]

210K miles on Mobil 1, Nissan VG30E V6, uses NO oil at all between 5000-6000 mile oil changes. Dipstick still shows full from the original fill, when it's changed.

Regards,
Gordon.

 

[jayvis]

Here's the thing. You need to increase the change intervals as the engine ages. Especially newer cars with low tension rings and direct injection. Doubly true with a turbo.
Funny thing, I quit using Mobil 1 on engines over 100k due to oil consumption issues. I changed to Valvoline, but have been using the stuff from Costco for the past 20,000 miles or so, quite successfully. 220k and use 1/2 qt every 5k. Well within acceptable levels. Subaru 2.5.

I've NEVER had a vehicle that burned oil. Maybe because I haven't kept any of my new vehicles for over 80,000 miles. And I've never had brake issues that many complain about. I believe proper break in to be very important. I follow the manufacturer's recommendations on all maintenance and although I don't think you are one, I basically ignore shade tree mechanics' claims.

 

[Mr Boochie]

I've NEVER had a vehicle that burned oil. Maybe because I haven't kept any of my new vehicles for over 80,000 miles. And I've never had brake issues that many complain about. I believe proper break in to be very important. I follow the manufacturer's recommendations on all maintenance and although I don't think you are one, I basically ignore shade tree mechanics' claims.

A classmate in college had this all beat up (weren't they all this way?) Chevy Vega. In the back seat were a case of 20W-50 and 24 new spark plugs.

For every fill-up, one quart of oil. Every other fill-up, new plugs.

We measured the valve lash at about 1/4-inch play, with the adjustments topped out.

 

[gadget73]

The lowest mileage I've ever purchased a vehicle at was 80k. I currently have two with north of 200k on their original engines, my truck is at 150k. They don't use oil. One has a very minor leak from one of the drain plugs. Its about due for an oil change so that problem will be taken care of.

I couldn't put up with something that ate fluids and consumables at that rate. Excuse for a V8 swap.

 

[Govany]

After nearly thirty years full time in the auto repair game (last sixteen in my own shop) I still learn something new almost every day, as vehicles evolve you have got to keep up with the learning curve..
Companies like Snap-on and Matco help me stay up to date with knowledge and equipment to repair vehicles of today..
So if someone wants to call me "shade tree mechanic" I'll wear it with pride, you gotta start somewhere..

Number one rule in my shop, don't take advice from keyboard warriors with squeaky clean hands

 

[jayvis]

A classmate in college had this all beat up (weren't they all this way) Chevy Vega. In the back seat were a case of 20W-50 and 24 new spark plugs.

For every fill-up, one quart of oil. Every other fill-up, new plugs.

We measured the valve lash at about 1/4-inch play, with the adjustments topped out.

 

[init4fun]

A classmate in college had this all beat up (weren't they all this way) Chevy Vega. In the back seat were a case of 20W-50 and 24 new spark plugs.

For every fill-up, one quart of oil. Every other fill-up, new plugs.

We measured the valve lash at about 1/4-inch play, with the adjustments topped out.

There actually was one submodel of the Vega worth owning, only built in the 1975/1976 model years, with only 3508 built, costing double of what a regular Vega did......

The "Cosworth" Vega......

 

[init4fun]

The lowest mileage I've ever purchased a vehicle at was 80k. I currently have two with north of 200k on their original engines, my truck is at 150k. They don't use oil. One has a very minor leak from one of the drain plugs. Its about due for an oil change so that problem will be taken care of.

I couldn't put up with something that ate fluids and consumables at that rate. Excuse for a V8 swap.

Agree 100%

Over the years I've owned several brand new cars, as well as a whole bunch of "well seasoned" ones (miles ranging from fifty K up to a couple hundred K) and I haven't "blown" an engine since I was a teenager with a VERY heavy right foot. Living where I do, the poor cars rust/rot out long before their mechanical bits kill them.

Like my poor 2003 Lincoln Town Car, recently became a parts donor car, still mechanically perfect at almost 200 K, with SO much rot underneath as to actually be unsafe to drive

 

[hopeless]

I've NEVER had a vehicle that burned oil. Maybe because I haven't kept any of my new vehicles for over 80,000 miles. And I've never had brake issues that many complain about. I believe proper break in to be very important. I follow the manufacturer's recommendations on all maintenance and although I don't think you are one, I basically ignore shade tree mechanics' claims.

The manufacturer is interested in selling you a new car. I'm not a manufacturer, but I've been a service writer and have worked for the parts division of a major US auto manufacturer. Yes, I do 95% of my own repairs.

Break in is overrated these days with modern machining accuracy, metallurgy, and synthetic oils, you don't get all the shavings you used to get in the old days.

But, don't mind me. Keep doing what you are doing if it's working for you.

 

[Mr Boochie]

Agree 100%

Over the years I've owned several brand new cars, as well as a whole bunch of "well seasoned" ones (miles ranging from fifty K up to a couple hundred K) and I haven't "blown" an engine since I was a teenager with a VERY heavy right foot. Living where I do, the poor cars rust/rot out long before their mechanical bits kill them.

Like my poor 2003 Lincoln Town Car, recently became a parts donor car, still mechanically perfect at almost 200 K, with SO much rot underneath as to actually be unsafe to drive

View attachment 3305679

We'd call these "cracker box wonders."

Have you ever been in a car where you can see the road passing underneath you through the rusty floorboard? That doesn't inspire confidence when thinking about car crashes.

 

[Mr Boochie]

There actually was one submodel of the Vega worth owning, only built in the 1975/1976 model years, with only 3508 built, costing double of what a regular Vega did......

The "Cosworth" Vega......

You know, I never drove one nor do I know anyone who did. The same scenario as a Ferrari 250GTO California. Amazing!

At least the Cosworth had an aluminum block and head. The crazy Chevy engine for the Vega was an aluminum block and a cast iron head. I have never seen that combination in any other engine.

 

[Pio1980]

You know, I never drove one nor do I know anyone who did. The same scenario as a Ferrari 250GTO California. Amazing!

At least the Cosworth had an aluminum block and head. The crazy Chevy engine for the Vega was an aluminum block and a cast iron head. I have never seen that combination in any other engine.

No cylinder sleeves either, iirc, chrome plated bores.

 

[Mr Boochie]

No cylinder sleeves either, iirc, chrome plated bores.

I remember it had a DOHC head. Kind of a novelty for US-branded cars at the time.

 

[hopeless]

You know, I never drove one nor do I know anyone who did. The same scenario as a Ferrari 250GTO California. Amazing!

At least the Cosworth had an aluminum block and head. The crazy Chevy engine for the Vega was an aluminum block and a cast iron head. I have never seen that combination in any other engine.

A good story of corporate and government fail. Due to changes in regulations for emissions and collision protection, then cost cutting to hit their pricing target, the initial wicked cool performance estimates became pretty mediocre. I appreciate the designer's vision, but the bitchslap of reality had other plans.

 

[jayvis]

Break in is overrated these days with modern machining accuracy, metallurgy, and synthetic oils, you don't get all the shavings you used to get in the old days.

When they say break in, I think that they mean more than just the engine. I like to baby the entire drivetrain for the first 1000 miles so I can better hear and feel things that might not seem right. And it's definitely better for the brake system. Although I love to experience performance, I just can't get myself to drive a brand-new vehicle like I stole it. I can wait 1000 miles to do that.