Ever turned 100,000 miles over on a Car
- Thread starter Condorsat
- Start date
krimney
Super Member
A few times. bought an 88 old delta 88 with 2xxxxx km on it and drove it to over 400000KM before tranny started to slip. That GM 3800 was still running strong.
Bought a new Kia rio in 2012, still driving it today as my daily driver and it just turned 290000 km
our 2012 C250 has just turned 160000km, approx 100K, and we recently bought an ML63 with almost the same mileage.
Bought a new Kia rio in 2012, still driving it today as my daily driver and it just turned 290000 km
our 2012 C250 has just turned 160000km, approx 100K, and we recently bought an ML63 with almost the same mileage.
Djcoolray
Addicted Member
I find that there is no car maker that has the technology to make the best cars in the world that will last forever. Social consensus believes there is but in truth, only certain models of cars make it to five hundred thousand miles. Cars that lack simplicity of design that have an over abundance of electronic gadgetry are easily disposable when the aftermarket industry discontinues production. I remember when they were starting to put electric windows in mid priced cars, all the older people said it was just one more thing that could break down. So in truth, even if a car makes it to two hundred thousand miles, the car isn’t worth driving. In the decades of rebuilding and resale of classic automobiles I’ve seen some true wonders and stark blunders. I’ve seen GM two-speed power-glides out of 1960’s Impalas that have had three, four engine replacements and never had the trans rebuilt or replaced. I’ve blundered into unexpected discoveries like stripping down a 1973 Lincoln 460 engine and doing the usual balance job and porting of heads with high compression pistons with an unbelievable increase in power that I put in a’74 Mustang. That engine build became my go to for Ford 4-wheel drive trucks. So popular when it comes to automotive design as in believing that Honda and Subaru are the best cars made period doesn’t pass the common sense test. The A-body Chrysler slant-6 automobile decades ago is superior in practical cost efficient design and got better gas mileage. Car are made to satisfy a target group of customers to stay in business and not make the best car possible any more than audio manufacturers intend to make the best stereo equipment possible.
ML320...101,000 and goes like hell with the MAF sensor set for enrichment of fuel uptake, ignition coils and spark plug wires from an SRT-6 and double iridium spark plugs.
ML320...101,000 and goes like hell with the MAF sensor set for enrichment of fuel uptake, ignition coils and spark plug wires from an SRT-6 and double iridium spark plugs.
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Nikkotopia
Active Member
Yes, I can't think of a car we have owned that did not have 100K to +200K on it before we let it go. We would always have 2 cars and my wife would get the newest car to drive and I would take the old car and nurse it along until it did not make sense to fix it anymore, doing as much of the repairs as I could along the way. As with this great forum, there have been car forums that have made it possible for me diagnose and fix problems that I would not have been able to do on my own. To me these forums are the highest and best use of the internet!
Chicken-01
Active Member
Quadman2
Lunatic Member
Yep, pretty much run well over the 100miler situation with the Subes that I've owned. Each and all have gone well over this milestone measure.
Do my own maintenance after warranty. I like to check the undercarriage while/after oil changes, and to check out the engine area.
Plus, I get to choose my oil and all important filters, both air/motor.
Minor repairs like water pump/belts/alternator, I've done, but with increased electronics, doing less now.
Thinking hybrid more and more...but still in the act of thinking.
Q
Do my own maintenance after warranty. I like to check the undercarriage while/after oil changes, and to check out the engine area.
Plus, I get to choose my oil and all important filters, both air/motor.
Minor repairs like water pump/belts/alternator, I've done, but with increased electronics, doing less now.
Thinking hybrid more and more...but still in the act of thinking.
Q
Chicken-01
Active Member
Yes, first in a BMW X5, then in an Audi Q5. Very big difference in long-term quality.
At just over 100k miles, the BMW chassis and steering felt very tired in the way it drove, steering was not crisp, did not feel tight over bumps. It still ran fairly well, but not as strong as when new.
The Audi Q5 at the same mileage (just over 100k) felt literally the same as when I first drove it off the lot -- same power, same steering crispness, same tight feel over bumps, everything felt like new, interior and body looked like new. When I had loaner Q5's during service, the loaners felt the same as our 100k mile car (or worse when the loaner had the "Sport package", which I typically hate in SUV's)
At just over 100k miles, the BMW chassis and steering felt very tired in the way it drove, steering was not crisp, did not feel tight over bumps. It still ran fairly well, but not as strong as when new.
The Audi Q5 at the same mileage (just over 100k) felt literally the same as when I first drove it off the lot -- same power, same steering crispness, same tight feel over bumps, everything felt like new, interior and body looked like new. When I had loaner Q5's during service, the loaners felt the same as our 100k mile car (or worse when the loaner had the "Sport package", which I typically hate in SUV's)
Be thankful you don't live in the Notheast. Those things will mostly be OK, but the body will be rotting out from underneath you.
There is some stuff called "Salt Away" that is a bit of a miracle worker. A friend of mine has a snow-cleaning business and using Salt-Away on the fleet reduce corrosion very significantly. The sprayer that Salt-Away sells along with the fluid is not very good, so I just mix it in a foam gun and spray the underside chassis twice a year or so. New cars have pretty good corrosion resistance, but if you have an older car you care about, Salt-Away is worth using in my opinion:
Salt-Away Fluid: https://www.amazon.com/SA32-Salt-S-...ld=1&keywords=Salt-away&qid=1599853814&sr=8-5
Foam Gun: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Blas...ild=1&keywords=foam+gun&qid=1599853280&sr=8-7
beat_truck
Addicted Member
That's great for areas you can reach, but useless for places you can't like the inside of rocker panels, the wheel arches on pickup beds, quarter panels, etc.There is some stuff called "Salt Away" that is a bit of a miracle worker. A friend of mine has a snow-cleaning business and using Salt-Away on the fleet reduce corrosion very significantly. The sprayer that Salt-Away sells along with the fluid is not very good, so I just mix it in a foam gun and spray the underside chassis twice a year or so. New cars have pretty good corrosion resistance, but if you have an older car you care about, Salt-Away is worth using in my opinion:
Salt-Away Fluid: https://www.amazon.com/SA32-Salt-S-...ld=1&keywords=Salt-away&qid=1599853814&sr=8-5
Foam Gun: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Blas...ild=1&keywords=foam+gun&qid=1599853280&sr=8-7
Poor folks and old timers just coat waste oil on the underside of vehicles that they don't want to rust. I am going to do that to mine before winter hits. I'll probably just load some into a cheap paint gun and spray it on.
MTalley
Well-Known Member
Thinking back over my lifetime of vehicles, I've either bought something used and might have rolled it over 100K, or bought it used with already over 100K on it. I have never bought anything new that I ran out to 100K miles. That last statement will change next Monday as we leave on a trip back home from visiting family in our 2016 F-350. It currently has 99,8xx miles on it. We bought it new 5 years ago and put all of those miles on it (mostly pulling an RV around the country).
As long as your sprayer works well, you can reach most of the areas where salt gets flung on the underside. You can't really get any areas where rust has come in from the outside of the body. I think it's actually safe to use on the body also from what I remember in the instructions, but I have only used it on the chassis.
Another thing I do is be sure to get the "underbody wash" when it goes through the car wash. It seems like one of those gimmick items, but for $2 or $3 additional, I think it is worth it up North. I'm sure Salt-Away works, not so sure how well car wash underbody wash works (probably varies a lot depending on what each car wash uses), but it's worth it for a couple more bucks to me.
Same had an Acura Integra, got it with 198k on it and sold it with 335k on it. Car would just run and run. Regular oil changes and a little maintenance here and there. Still didn't burn oil the day I sold it. Car was good to me
1989 Toyota Camry. purchased with 92k in 1995. Gave to my dad to replace his dying Corolla at 217k
1999 Toyota Camry. Purchased new. Totaled in 2013 by uninsured driver making left turn and stopping in-front of me at 149k
2006 Toyota Sienna. Purchased new for my wife. Sold last April with 218k
2020 Toyota Sienna. Purchased new for my wife. Got hit in rear end this past Saturday. Pretty hard, while it was parked on the street. 7900 miles. MAAAAD!!
1999 Toyota Camry. Purchased new. Totaled in 2013 by uninsured driver making left turn and stopping in-front of me at 149k
2006 Toyota Sienna. Purchased new for my wife. Sold last April with 218k
2020 Toyota Sienna. Purchased new for my wife. Got hit in rear end this past Saturday. Pretty hard, while it was parked on the street. 7900 miles. MAAAAD!!