First time Veneer job....
- Thread starter Keizer
- Start date
peterfranks
Super Member
beautiful, just beautiful!
Keizer
Active Member
I bought a steel letter basket at Staples office supply. I then just dissected what I needed from that. Small staples on the underside hold the grills in place.
Thanks for the kudos!
Keizer
Active Member
Thanks! I figure if I screw up this veneer job I can just make a whole new case from scratch from solid walnut. But this MCS original case has some clearance details that would take some time to duplicate. So I'm hoping my first time veneer job will be acceptable.
Beautiful case on the Marantz. If that is any indication of your work then the 3275 will be stunning.
Keizer
Active Member
I'm a huge fan of oak furniture from the late 80's, and 90's. My house is full of. People on Craigslist just give it away. I just bought my son a new oak desk off Craigslist for $40.00. I brought it right back to my shop and stripped it back down to bare wood. I then re-finished it with "golden oak" stain and six coats of rub on poly. I did the same thing with the desk I'm sitting at right now typing this. Very affordable way to furnish a home. I like rub on poly because it allows you to creep up slowly on the desired finish.
Keizer
Active Member
Thanks! I think after I practice on an old speaker first I can make any mistakes on that.
Keizer
Active Member
Okay, I think I have the wood case as prepared as I can get it. Having to wait on the veneer to arrive has afforded me time to obsess on case prep.
Something I noticed was that the large top panel on the case bows down slightly. It's a side to side bow. If I set the case down and push slightly in on the lower side pieces the bow disappears. So, I'm thinking I may need to make a simple jig for the case to sit in when I veneer the top. Something like a couple 1x2's screwed down to my work bench top the right distance apart to eliminate the bow when I set the case between them. Looking at the inside of the case, I see the manufacturer put score marks on the under side of the top panel. These score marks run front to back. I assume they are there so you can slightly flex the sides of the case out to ease in removing and installing the case on the receiver. But, these score marks are also allowing this slight bow.
Also I have a question. I have seen people mention the Band-it edge trimmer to trim their edges. Would this be worth buying for that chore? Or is there a better method. The Band-it edge trimmer does not review well at all on Amazon.
Something I noticed was that the large top panel on the case bows down slightly. It's a side to side bow. If I set the case down and push slightly in on the lower side pieces the bow disappears. So, I'm thinking I may need to make a simple jig for the case to sit in when I veneer the top. Something like a couple 1x2's screwed down to my work bench top the right distance apart to eliminate the bow when I set the case between them. Looking at the inside of the case, I see the manufacturer put score marks on the under side of the top panel. These score marks run front to back. I assume they are there so you can slightly flex the sides of the case out to ease in removing and installing the case on the receiver. But, these score marks are also allowing this slight bow.
Also I have a question. I have seen people mention the Band-it edge trimmer to trim their edges. Would this be worth buying for that chore? Or is there a better method. The Band-it edge trimmer does not review well at all on Amazon.
GuyK
Addicted Member
Have you already got a decent block plane? That's all I ever use for this sort of thing. Just sharpen it up really well, and set the throat to take the finest shaving you can.
ghazzer
Senior Member
I think that you will also need a "buck" that sits inside the case and supports the top as you iron on the top veneer.
I lay a thin metal ruler flat to the side, with the edge butted up to the new veneer. Then I trim the veneer to the ruler with a SHARP razor knife, cutting across the grain of the veneer or in the direction that the veneer grain is moving away from the box. Then I remove the ruler and free-hand trim, or sand. Have not tried a plane. Use the tools you are used to.
Like I said, I have a lot of patience.
I lay a thin metal ruler flat to the side, with the edge butted up to the new veneer. Then I trim the veneer to the ruler with a SHARP razor knife, cutting across the grain of the veneer or in the direction that the veneer grain is moving away from the box. Then I remove the ruler and free-hand trim, or sand. Have not tried a plane. Use the tools you are used to.
Like I said, I have a lot of patience.
Keizer
Active Member
Why do you trim it to the ruler first? So you have that tiny amount left to sand it perfect? What happens if you just trim it right to the box with nothing left?
Do you use the ruler technique for all cuts on the box?
westend
Audiopile
An alternative to cutting the counterbores for the case attachment screws is to glue a neodymium magnet in the hole. These small round magnets are very strong and can hold the cover on with no problem. With a magnet epoxied into the counterbores, you can fill the rest and veneer right over with no hole drilling. An iron slug on the attachment side of the magnet will increase it's holding power.
Keizer
Active Member
Although that's an interesting option, this receiver weighs a ton. I can't imagine magnets would hold the case in place if I ever grabbed on to it to move the receiver. Are they strong enough for that?
ghazzer
Senior Member
It is a precaution.
I have always used the glue-on veneer, which has no backing at all. Trimming with ANY blade has a tendency to follow the grain of the veneer and it can easily crack back into the area that was just glued down.
Don't know how pre-glued or paper backed veneer reacts. Try these techniques on your practice box and see which works best for you.
Usually, but I guess it depends on the situation.
Keizer
Active Member
I got my practice box built today. I had some 3/4" oak plywood scraps laying around. I made sure the factory straight edges are in the corners. I even drilled fastening holes the same size as the ones on my MCS case. I also made a similar vent hole on the top. Hopefully this practice box will help develop a working technique for me.
My veneer shipped today and it will be here next week. I still have some planning time.
You guys are making a science project out of this. Just drill through the back with a small bit for location purposes. Use a new pointy X-acto knife, change knifes often and cut on the down stroke aginat the hole side. Roll a piece of 220 to fit the rabbited hole and do the twist to sharpen the edges. No muss no fuss and perfect! Done a ton this way.
I then paint the hole with some flat black paint with a cotton swab.
I then paint the hole with some flat black paint with a cotton swab.
I also like using a good plywood substrate and veneering as apposed to just solid wood cabinets. The substrate is much more stable and will hold up with the changes in temperatures and humidity. It, in most cases is how the manufactures did it and I like to keep things as close to OEM.
Keizer
Active Member
Some more great tips! I was at Home Depot yesterday and stocked up on extra blades for my X-acto knives here in the shop. I have plenty of box cutter knives and fresh blades, but I think a small X-acto knife will allow for a finer feel on the smaller delicate parts.
