First time Veneer job....

[Keizer]

I did some research here on the forums and I think that I'm more than capable of doing this job. I did have a question though that I couldn't answer from my research.

Back peddling a little, I recently acquired a beautiful MSC 3275 receiver. Fully functional, flawless face plate, but the original veneer on the case was showing its age with scratches, and a few dings.

So I took a heat gun and removed the old factory veneer which was actually pretty easy to do. I then sanded the bare wood, and filled any suspect areas with a quality wood filler, and then finish sanded. I then ordered some walnut faced heat activated veneer from Menards......the iron on kind.

My question is, would it be advisable to apply some kind of adhesion promoter to the bare wood before installing the veneer? Or can I just install right on top of the bare wood?

Here's some pics of the case at its current stage.



By the way, here's a few pics of the receiver.

 

[dosmalo]

I wish you the very best.:thmbsp: I've seen some awesome DIY veneer jobs done on this forum to turntables and speakers, etc. I'll be keeping a close eye on your thread because I've got a couple of pieces of equipment I'd like to recover myself.
You've already gotten further than I've had the nerve to go.

 

[ghazzer]

IMHO you should not need additional adhesive. My main suggestion is that you make a small box (½" MDF is fine) and PRACTICE. Most people cannot learn technic from reading articles or other members posts. I can virtually guarantee that you will learn some little something that will make your project better or easier.

Your corners look crisp & sharp! Make sure that you have removed ALL of the dust particles, with a tac cloth or compressed air.

Do the sides first, so that the top veneer will hide the edges of the side pieces.

 

[Keizer]

IMHO you should not need additional adhesive. My main suggestion is that you make a small box (½" MDF is fine) and PRACTICE. Most people cannot learn technic from reading articles or other members posts. I can virtually guarantee that you will learn some little something that will make your project better or easier.

Your corners look crisp & sharp! Make sure that you have removed ALL of the dust particles, with a tac cloth or compressed air.

Do the sides first, so that the top veneer will hide the edges of the side pieces.

Excellent suggestions!

 

[Keizer]

What do you guys think will be the cleanest way to cut the 8 small holes on the sides for the case fasteners? I was going to use a very sharp X-ACTO knife on the larger vent hole on the top.

 

[GuyK]

What do you guys think will be the cleanest way to cut the 8 small holes on the sides for the case fasteners? I was going to use a very sharp X-ACTO knife on the larger vent hole on the top.

Here's what I'd do for the fastener holes in the sides:
1) plug the existing counterbore and sand flush

2) tape over the locations on the outside with 3M LOW tack blue painters tape.

3) drill from the INSIDE with about the smallest bit you can use, centered in the existing hole. This will precisely locate the center on the outside of the case.

4)drill the counterbore from the OUTSIDE with a Forstner bit of the desired size, piloting it on the small hole drilled from the inside.

The tape will help prevent the veneer from splintering when drilling, and using low tack tape prevents pulling it up when the tape is removed.

For the vent opening, I'd use the X-Acto knife to rough cut the opening, then trim flush with a bottom-bearing flush cutting router bit of the appropriate size. The knife will work, but you'll need it to as sharp as you can possibly get it. And however you go about it, you'll need to take your time. If you rush the job, the results won't meet your satisfaction.

 

[Keizer]

Here's what I'd do for the fastener holes in the sides:
1) plug the exiting counterbore and sand flush

When you say plug the hole, do you mean fill them all with wood filler?

 

[Ths364]

You shouldn't need any type of adhesion promoter, but I wouldn't sand the substrate (the surface to which you apply the veneer) any finer than 80 or 100 grit in order to allow some "tooth" (scratches that increase the surface-bonding area). Get the surface free of dust and particles- the story "The Princess and the Pea" is a good indicator of what will happen if a small chunk of stuff is under the veneer. The resulting surface will have a large bump that if you risk sanding level , you could sand through.

Start with the sides (one at a time) so that the top veneer will cover the edge of the side veneer making it less visible when viewing from the top. This also prevents the side veneer from chipping or peeling (when cleaning/dusting the top, for example).

 

[GuyK]

When you say plug the hole, do you mean fill them all with wood filler?

I have means to make wood plugs, so I'd use those myself, but I suppose wood filler might work. It's not really critical what the material is. It only needs to be workable enough to make smooth to veneer over, since most of it will be removed again when drilling the counterbores again. The reason I would take this extra step is to prevent the bit from wandering when drilling the new holes in the veneer, which can turn an otherwise fine effort into a real hash.

 

[Keizer]

I have means to make wood plugs, so I'd use those myself, but I suppose wood filler might work. It's not really critical what the material is. It only needs to be workable enough to make smooth to veneer over, since most of it will be removed again when drilling the counterbores again. The reason I would take this extra step is to prevent the bit from wandering when drilling the new holes in the veneer, which can turn an otherwise fine effort into a real hash.

I like the idea quite a bit. I actually worked as a journey level machinist for years so I understand all too well about how drill bits and other cutting tools can behave if not used properly.

On that note, I still have all my machinist tools. I was actually thinking that I could use dial calipers and measure all the holes accurately using the bottom, front, and back edges of the case. I could then easily lay the holes out after the veneer is installed and use the forester bit and blue tape method from the outside. I'm just a little concerned drilling the small hole from inside the case because by the time you get through the plywood, you could be slightly off if the drill bit angled at all. Probably splitting hairs with this idea.

 

[GuyK]

Keep in mind the holes already there are oversize for the screws to allow for some slop from mass production, so if the drill isn't EXACTLY vertical, it isn't likely to make a bit of difference. However, if your comfortable doing the layout to drill from the outside, by all means do so. I suggested drilling the pilot from the inside since this removes the possibility of an error in the layout. Whenever I can avoid making measurements by direct transfer of dimensions I do so.

 

[sonex]

To do the screw holes I would just drill pilot holes from the inside big enough for a flush router bit. Then cover the veneer on the outside with painters tape to prevent chipping and route the holes with a flush router bit.

 

[Lavane]

On a side note, that is the nicest looking MCS receiver I've ever seen! I have the MCS audio oscilloscope from 1979. It is also a B&W TV, closed circuit TV and monitor for recording those old vhs tapes. I used the scope for awhile, kind of cool. Now it just sits in my to do pile. The scope is also a stereo watt meter.

 

[ghazzer]

+1 on what GuyK says.

I'm wondering if wood putty will crumble any when drilled. Check around your workshop to see if you have a dowel that is a snug fit in the larger hole. Glue it securely in place, cut it flush, fill with wood putty and sand it smooth. You don't want the plug to come loose when you drill the 'pilot' hole through it - messy

Drill the 'pilot' hole in your secured plug using the smaller hole from the inside. The tape on the outside should keep the veneer from ripping out. If you want insurance, clamp a scrap piece of wood against the veneer before you drill the 'pilot' hole from the inside.

I'd use a circle template on the veneer, centered on the 'pilot' hole, to more precisely mark where the outside of the Forstner bit should be started.

ALTERNATIVE: You might just be able to veneer over the open hole, drill a locator 'pilot' hole, then carefully finish with a thin bladed razor knife. I usually opt for the more complicated solution.

Good Luck - - -

 

[Keizer]

+1 on what GuyK says.

I'm wondering if wood putty will crumble any when drilled. Check around your workshop to see if you have a dowel that is a snug fit in the larger hole. -

I will see if I can find a dowel the right size because I think that would be the best solution. If not, I do have some JB weld that would work way better than wood puddy.

As far as your alternative method.....do you think a person could successfully cut the holes out with a sharp x-acto knife?

 

[Keizer]

On a side note, that is the nicest looking MCS receiver I've ever seen!

I wasn't really even looking for this particular brand/model although I have always liked them. When I saw the pics of it on craigslist, the face plate looked brand new. I called the guy and he said the same thing you did that it was the nicest one he had ever owned. He had this one for three years. He also said everything functioned 100%, and he had a YouTube vid of it performing. I couldn't pass it up.

As it turned out, it does function 100% but it had one bulb for the tuner dial burned out. I have three new ones on the way. Also I couldn't get my head phone plug to seat all the way down in the head phone jack. I used a flash light and discovered a small piece of who knows what down in the jack. I fished it out with a tiny screw driver and now it functions perfect.

 

[ghazzer]

As far as your alternative method.....do you think a person could successfully cut the holes out with a sharp x-acto knife?

I could, but I have a lot of patience, and time. I'd also rely on a collection of small files and sandpaper wrapped around a smaller dowel for finishing.

Speaking of finishing, have you decided what finish you will use, and how to apply it? If you have made a veneer practice box(es), continue your project by practicing your finish - just to make sure that you get what you are expecting.

 

[Keizer]

I could, but I have a lot of patience, and time. I'd also rely on a collection of small files and sandpaper wrapped around a smaller dowel for finishing.

Speaking of finishing, have you decided what finish you will use, and how to apply it? If you have made a veneer practice box(es), continue your project by practicing your finish - just to make sure that you get what you are expecting.

I was reading another thread here in the forums about another member installing the same veneer that I will be using on his Sansui case. He just installed the veneer right over the counter bored holes, drilled a pilot hole from the back, and then used his dremel with a small barrel sander to finish them off.

I will definitely be practicing on a small box with various cut outs. I got the 24" x 96" piece of veneer so I will have plenty to practice with.

I have actually done quite a bit of finish work on furniture, as well as finish trim work through my construction business. One of my favorite ways to finish bare wood is with whatever flavor stain I want to use, and then maybe 5-6 coats of rub on poly. I make my own cocktail of rub on poly because it's cheaper that way. Since I will be using the walnut faced veneer, I will most likely go without stain, and just go with the natural look of the rub on poly.

Here's a case I built and finished for my Marantz receiver that I owned. I built it from solid walnut. It just has four coats of rub on poly.

 

[jberger]

How are the top and sides fastened together? (Very nice work, by the way)

 

[Keizer]

How are the top and sides fastened together? (Very nice work, by the way)

It is held together with wood joining biscuits and wood glue. I also added some small steel right angle brackets inside for extra strength.

Thanks!