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Fisher 500c - LED Replacement - what´s the problem?

Hannes123

Active Member
Hey! I ordered an LED Kit on ebay... When i switch on my unit, the LED lights behind the meter scale start flickering that much i get a strobo club light. What can i do?
Cheers!
 
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Which lamps did you replace. I've got LED's in both my 800c's (dial glass light) and incandescents in the indicator bulbs for Stereo beacon and Tuning Scale. No flicker at all.
 
The #47 bulb replacements may not have an internal Diode. The reason it's flickering is the lighting circuit is AC. LED's like DC, so installing a 1n4001 diode to each of the two Lamps power lead at the socket mount would probably do the trick and get rid of the flicker.
 
If you do a series diode, add a cap to ground and it will take care of it. 100uf 25v (or so) will get it done.
 
Does it flicker at a consistent rate, or just randomly? I had a similar issue but it was due to dirty connections.
 
i found the ends of the leds were just a bit smaller than oem bulbs, so i used a tape shim to ensure positive contact with the receptacles.
 
so - just to understand that correctly: i use just solder two of these
https://de.rs-online.com/web/p/gleichrichterdioden-und-schottky-dioden/0261148/ and solder them here? View attachment 1750108

Yeah. Remove the lead from the tab. Insert a diode (striped side to TAB), Solder to the Tab. The other end, Solder the Diode lead, Wire, and the + lead of a 100uf 25V together. Then solder the - lead of the cap to the screwed mount for the lamp. Do this for each of the #47 replacement lamp

Diode Mod for LED.jpg
 
Yeah. Remove the lead from the tab. Insert a diode (striped side to TAB), Solder to the Tab. The other end, Solder the Diode lead, Wire, and the + lead of a 100uf 25V together. Then solder the - lead of the cap to the screwed mount for the lamp. Do this for each of the #47 replacement lamp

View attachment 1750660

thanks for the help, i might do that. just wonder why the ebay seller has these in stock if they are the wrong replacement.
 
and: when i compare my LED- fm scale brightness to the sellers pictures, there is a big difference in brightness. Could this be because of different power usage? I run mine on 110volts...
 
Yeah. Remove the lead from the tab. Insert a diode (striped side to TAB), Solder to the Tab. The other end, Solder the Diode lead, Wire, and the + lead of a 100uf 25V together. Then solder the - lead of the cap to the screwed mount for the lamp. Do this for each of the #47 replacement lamp

View attachment 1750660

And watch the capacitor explode. If the + lead is connected to the anode of the diode as shown, the capacitor will have reverse voltage. Turn the diode around.
 
And watch the capacitor explode. If the + lead is connected to the anode of the diode as shown, the capacitor will have reverse voltage. Turn the diode around.

Not sure what you mean by „watch the capacitor blow“. Isn’t there a different led bulb I could put in ? I couldn’t find the specs for an led bulb replacement - just the regular bulbs. Don’t understand why all of you guys experience no flickering although you use LEDs and I understood that LEDs don’t like AC in general ...
 
If the diode is reversed, the capacitor won't like it and it will fail. Flip the diode 'round and it will be OK. Stripe goes towards the + lead of the capacitor.

or use a #47 lamp and run with it. Those don't flicker. Personally I don't use LEDs because they hurt my eyes.
 
Hopefully experts will come along to correct me here.....

Usually, the lights in Fishers are driven by the filament voltage (AC?). That should work fine with LED's, but......

With LED's there is usually a dropping resistor in the circuit. If these bulbs only have the raw LED that might be part of your problem. There are many sites with instructions on how to calculate what dropping resistor you need if this is the case. You may be able to check the bulb with a multi-meter to determine if there is a resistor inside it. The forward resistance would possibly be between 100 to 300 ohms (guessing). The reverse resistance would be infinite. If your forward resistance is close to zero then that would be a problem.
 
Thanks for answering me - I have no electronical experience so I struggle a bit with understanding the answers here - I understood so far, that I will need to see an electrician to solder a little bit ;) I thought these LEDs offered on eBay are drop in replacements : didn’t know about the AC/DC problematic before. So it might be that there are LEDs that work without flickering and some don’t - what I could do is a new bulb lamp that has a higher lumen/light cast, I guess ? Again , thanks for the input
 
The stock lamps should get the job done, but you may need to replace the foam that sits at the edge of the glass to get the light going where it belongs. I think there is a sticky about this somewhere, but basically it keeps the light going into the edge of the glass rather than behind it where it washes out the numbers.
 
Looks like a defect. I'd contact the seller and tell him/her what you are experiencing. I see where he advertised that it would work with a 500c, so the assumption was that it has been tested as such. Perhaps time to get your money back and move to another seller.

I have a Fisher tuner where I went with an incandescent festoon bulb instead of LED. It's sometimes hard to determine what are the correct replacement bulbs though (length, diameter, voltage, etc.)
 
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