Forte passive
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Ok, thats what I thought as well...
The picture is somewhat an optical illusion.
This was taken from the top of the cabinet looking down at the passive.
moray james
Super Member
That's a very simple repair. Massage the torn section so it smooths out then apply a patch of coffer filter paper one inch overall larger than the damaged area and apply with a thin but even layer of white wood glue. If the dust cap is secure and has no leaks leave it alone you will be good to play in an hour. Best regards Moray James.
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Yeah, that's what I have read, and heard before. I'm just scared to make it worse. This is probably something I need to do, possibly over break. I'm wondering do I patch in coffee filter on the inside or outside, or both? I assume both probably wouldn't hurt, that may make the patch equally sturdy as the original material?
moray james
Super Member
Patches look best on the inside of the cone. A one layer patch is fine the fact the patch is oversize is to provide added strength. The passive does not need to be overly rigid it is only a dead weight on a spring (suspension) and it resonates at the lowest frequency of interest. The patch is there to make the cone air tight that's all it needs to do. If you want to go crazy you can work a little adhesive into the torn section before you place the patch to make sure all the edge surfaces bond together well that's all you need to do. If you feel the need to do more install a set of metal speaker grills over the passives to protect them in the future. Best regards Moray James.
Joseph Jove
Member
Mr. Moray James is the E.F. Hutton of Klipsch products. When he talks (writes), I shut-up and listen.
Best regards.
Best regards.
moray james
Super Member
Joe I appreciate your kind words, I would like to say that I am truly interested in open discussion and a good argument can lead to fresh insights and there is nothing wrong with agreeing to disagree if need be. There are many members here and at the Klipsch forum who have much experience. That's one of the reasons I enjoy membership here there is so much to learn.
I happen to be interested is doing specific modifications which I think are helpful and which are cost effective for DIY. Most of my mods are intended to reduce mechanical and or acoustical distortions and usually involve brace work and damping. With the right choice of materials you can achieve a much more than most would believe is possible when it comes to loudspeaker improvements. Thanks again best regards Moray James.
I happen to be interested is doing specific modifications which I think are helpful and which are cost effective for DIY. Most of my mods are intended to reduce mechanical and or acoustical distortions and usually involve brace work and damping. With the right choice of materials you can achieve a much more than most would believe is possible when it comes to loudspeaker improvements. Thanks again best regards Moray James.
3l3ctron
Active Member
After it is repaired, you may want to think about protecting them too. It's as cheap and easy of a mod as one can hope for.
I covered mine about 5 years ago after catching one of our cats attempting to turn the radiator cone of my Forte II into a scratch post. I am very satisfied with the results.
I covered mine about 5 years ago after catching one of our cats attempting to turn the radiator cone of my Forte II into a scratch post. I am very satisfied with the results.
Well, I feel like a fool now...I took the driver out tonight, looked at it, and figured how easy it would be to patch it from the inside. All I had to do was get some 2" wide packing tape and place it over the tear from the inside. I double it up to make it about 3" wide on the inside. I put this off for so long, but it took about 10 minutes to remove, patch, and replace.
Problem is, I have purchased grills a while back, just never put them on. I figured by the look of it they would interfere with the movement of the driver. I guess I need to look into installing them.
Since it was out, I also got the dust cover in the center to pop out back to original.
Thanks for the input!!!
Problem is, I have purchased grills a while back, just never put them on. I figured by the look of it they would interfere with the movement of the driver. I guess I need to look into installing them.
Since it was out, I also got the dust cover in the center to pop out back to original.
Thanks for the input!!!
That probably will not be a permanent patch, and will cause problems later. Using a glue and type of fabric will be more secure and not allow an air leak. The glue on tape only lasts so long before it doesn't stick anymore, and comes loose.
DEFTECHY
Well-Known Member
agreed the packing tape will be temporary at best, with the vibrations & movement i wuld guess it will last a matter of weeks before it starts to come undone.
you can do the wood glue & coffee filter paper route, but IMO the best repair for black woofer & passive material is some automotive RTV type silicone, permatex ultra-black is best, or black household silicone in the caulking tube. apply it from the inside & around the torn section & let cure for a few hours, then apply a thin layer over the whole area feathering out about 1" or so. that will remain flexible forever & seal the wound best.
wood glue dries hard & gets very brittle over time & will allow the filter paper to release.
you can do the wood glue & coffee filter paper route, but IMO the best repair for black woofer & passive material is some automotive RTV type silicone, permatex ultra-black is best, or black household silicone in the caulking tube. apply it from the inside & around the torn section & let cure for a few hours, then apply a thin layer over the whole area feathering out about 1" or so. that will remain flexible forever & seal the wound best.
wood glue dries hard & gets very brittle over time & will allow the filter paper to release.
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