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Fried Speaker Identification and Hookup

K

Kdj432

New Member
Hi, I have a buddy who was gifted 4 Fried speakers from a friend who's father passed. I can't find these exact speakers online and would really like some info on them. more importantly, we tried hard to connect them to an amplifier, we tried hooking speaker wire from the output of the amp to amp in on the speakers as well as wire from the satellite terminal of the subwoofer to the terminals on the back of the trapezoidal speakers on top, the result was the trapezoid speakers worked fine but the subwoofers were super quiet, we discovered that if we unhooked the wire from the trapezoid speakers and crossed the wire the subwoofers became loud and clear, not sure how safe it would be to jump the satellite terminals so i suggested we quit and contact Fried audio but that's proving difficult and we're not sure if they're even in business anymore. thanks for reading and we appreciate any feedback.Fried1.jpg Fried2.jpg Fried3.jpg
 
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Yes, Fried is out of business AFAIK. You could unscrew the rear plate on the subs to see how it's wired.
My Fried subs have the same rear terminal plate as these. There was nothing connected to "Bi-Amp" on mine. Yours may be wired differently.
The one on this forum who knows the most about Frieds is Jim PA. Start a conversation with him. He will be glad to help. I think he may have that same (or very similar) model in his living room.
 
It appears the strap is missing that connects the amp in to the satellites on the terminal inputs.
Take a look at the photo in the link.
One can see the strap.
input-cups-td-cup
You will have to connect a wire from the amp in to the satellites since the strap is missing.
The positive red amp has to be connected to the red satellite input.
The same with the negative black input.
The satellites have to be jumped to be connected to the crossover.
 
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JimPA said:
It appears the strap is missing that connects the amp in to the satellites on the terminal inputs.
Take a look at the photo in the link.
One can see the strap.
input-cups-td-cup
You will have to connect a wire from the amp in to the satellites since the strap is missing.
The positive red amp has to be connected to the red satellite input.
The same with the negative black input.
The satellites have to be jumped to be connected to the crossover.
Click to expand...
do you have any info on this model speaker? I can't find this exact model online.
 
Kdj432 said:
do you have any info on this model speaker? I can't find this exact model online.
Click to expand...
You are not going to be able to find any info on these online since the company no longer exists.

I have to see a photo showing which drivers are in your model.
Do those have 8" or 10" drivers in the subwoofer enclosure?
 
JimPA said:
You are not going to be able to find any info on these online since the company no longer exists.

I have to see a photo showing which drivers are in your model.
Do those have 8" or 10" drivers in the subwoofer enclosure?
Click to expand...
they are 10"
 
Kdj432 said:
they are 10"
Click to expand...
The 10" drivers were used in the O4,O5 and O6 transmission line subwoofer enclosures.
The enclosures are exactly the same but the question is which 6.5" and 10" drivers are in the enclosures you have?
 
I've seen this model before. My guess is that the sats. have the KEF 110's and a KEF T27 tweeter or variants of those. My first really decent speakers was the H/2 kit which used Dalesford drivers and Dynaudio tweeters.

Your buddy has been gifted a wonderful setup.
 
Lux Man said:
I've seen this model before. My guess is that the sats. have the KEF 110's and a KEF T27 tweeter or variants of those. My first really decent speakers was the H/2 kit which used Dalesford drivers and Dynaudio tweeters.

Your buddy has been gifted a wonderful setup.
Click to expand...

Fried never used Kef drivers in the C3L-C6 or O4-O6 models.
 
So, I went over again last night to try and get them to work to no avail again. we've determined that all speakers work but the subwoofers are very weak the only way we can get the subwoofers to make sound is to connect the amp to the 'Amp In' terminals on the back of the subwoofers, connect leads to the 'Satellite' terminals and then cross those Satellite leads but still they're really quiet. I tried jumping the 'Amp In' and 'Satellite' terminals with everything else connected normally and the Satellites were the only thing that would turn on. I did take the driver out of a subwoofer and take a pic, I'll attach it here, there was no sticker on the back but it had a huge magnet. unfortunately I did not take the drivers out of the satellite speakers but i did get a look at the back of the tweeter and it said made in Denmark. I'll also try to attach a video of us crossing the satellite leads to make the Subwoofers work. thanks for sticking with me on this guys.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10214087931375405
photo.php
 
this site sucks at letting me upload images and video, I'd be glad to send these to you directly if you want.
 
Those are Model CL-3. I've built several pair of cabinets for clients. They are a fairly simple transmission line. Here's a pair I did with matching subwoofer.
 

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homebrew said:
Those are Model CL-3. I've built several pair of cabinets for clients. They are a fairly simple transmission line. Here's a pair I did with matching subwoofer.
Click to expand...
very cool! thanks for the info. now if I can just get these to work properly.
 
Jeff449 said:
Yes, Fried is out of business AFAIK.
Click to expand...
While Irving M (call me Bud) died in 2005, there is a company that exists today. Click here for Fried Audio. While current product is different, perhaps they may be of some assistance.

I know his name is pronounced FREED, but I always smiled when I saw "I M FRIED".
 
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E-Stat said:
While Irving M (call me Bud) died in 2005, there is a company that exists today. Click here for Fried Audio.

I know his name is pronounced FREED, but I always smiled when I saw "I M FRIED".
Click to expand...
I just tried calling Fried Audio and the guy could not help me with this older model but he suggested I contact IMF in France.
 
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