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Fried Speaker Identification and Hookup

Steve Smiley said:
Maybe the series crossover makes sense here, and introducing a bi amp in there between the woofer and the mid (if that makes any sense). That way by adding jumpers between the "To Sat" and "Bi Amp" you can get the addition of the subwoofer. I am trying to picture how that would be wired but I believe it would mean that the satellites would always get a full signal, with out the benefit of a high pass at the woofer (to the sat).

I gather you, JimPA, are thinking that if Kdj hooks up the amp to the Bi Amp In, maybe you just get bass from the sub?
Click to expand...

Rick you have to remember mine were built from a kit.
My subwoofer only plays the low frequencies.
I purposely used the jumper since it came with the terminals.
I know my satellites are being crossed over since I was the one that built the crossover.
I have built several pairs of subwoofers this way.
I did things this way since I wasn't going to wire the crossover in the parallel configuration.
I had no reason to use a bi amp terminal plate.
The later models of the Fried subwoofers didn't use a bi amp terminal plate since they all used a series crossover.
 
JimPA, your set-up makes sense to me. Maybe the Kdj set up is like yours, but using amp in at the satellite section, with Jumpers to the sub section and a common ground... maybe I'm getting in to deep here and showing my inexperience...thanks for humoring me. I'm trying to learn.
 
Ohighway said:
Jim, show me on the series crossover schematic where it's split (or would be split) into two sets of terminals like you have and where the jumper goes...
Click to expand...


The subwoofer and satellite share the same positive connection on the terminal input by the strap.
The split off is done after the 2A fuse I have below the terminal input inside of the subwoofer enclosure.
One can see the 2A fuse in the crossover schematic.




DSC_0296.JPG
DSC_0052.JPG
 
Back in 1993 I purchased the last pair of NOS of Fried's O1 Dalesford 10" subwoofer drivers.
The O4 kit plans and crossover schematic was included with a pair of drivers for $270.

It got to the point with Fried that all one got with one of his kits were crossover and enclosure plans with the drivers.
The purchaser had to provide the crossover parts themself.
I saved around $480 doing it this way.
The O4 model in kit form was $750 back in 1993.
I did spend around $250 buying the crossover parts from Solen.
I used the 14 gauge 12mh air core inductors and the 150 mfd 400 volt poly caps required for my model.
Also the foam cost at least $50 back then and the cost of the wood to build the enclosures.
 
JimPA said:
Back in 1993 I purchased the last pair of NOS of Fried's O1 Dalesford 10" subwoofer drivers.
The O4 kit plans and crossover schematic was included with a pair of drivers for $270.

It got to the point with Fried that all one got with one of his kits were crossover and enclosure plans with the drivers.
The purchaser had to provide the crossover parts themself.
I saved around $480 doing it this way.
The O4 model in kit form was $750 back in 1993.
I did spend around $250 buying the crossover parts from Solen.
I used the 14 gauge 12mh air core inductors and the 150 mfd 400 volt poly caps required for my model.
Also the foam cost at least $50 back then and the cost of the wood to build the enclosures.
Click to expand...
so jealous Jim, I bet they sound incredible!

My only claim to Fried speakers is three pair of Fried Beta. Small bookshelf. I really like them mind you. I need to explore a recap on them now.

Cheers!
 
Apologies to the OP @Kdj432 for dragging this thread off course. Did you get your speakers working correctly ??

Jim I still do not understand how your terminals , strap, etc. fit in with that series schematic but that's something we can take off line and not clog up this thread.
 
Steve Smiley said:
so jealous Jim, I bet they sound incredible!

My only claim to Fried speakers is three pair of Fried Beta. Small bookshelf. I really like them mind you. I need to explore a recap on them now.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
You could build a clone of the C3L models using the Silver Flute 6.5" 2-wool-cone with the Hiquphon tweeters hiquphon.htm.
I have a copy of the crossover design that was used by one of the former owners of the company as a C3L upgrade.
The file is too large to put on the forum and requires being sent by email.
 
To clarify things the satellite is connected to the upper inputs.
The subwoofer is connected to the lower inputs.
 
Ohighway said:
Apologies to the OP @Kdj432 for dragging this thread off course. Did you get your speakers working correctly ??

Jim I still do not understand how your terminals , strap, etc. fit in with that series schematic but that's something we can take off line and not clog up this thread.
Click to expand...

No apologies necessary, I'm enjoying these replies and I'm glad this thread is still active. I'm reasearching this for my buddy because I have more down time at my job and I'm really excited to hear these speakers. Since these speakers aren't mine I have to make time to go over to my friends house and experiment with these speakers when I can so this is unfortunately a long drawn out process, thank you guys for hanging in there with me. this is the closest thing I have to having help there with me while i try different configurations. we have not had these speakers working correctly yet, I will keep you posted as timely as I can.
 
So, after a couple of times going over to my friends with a mulitmeter and giving the readings to my amp guy I decided to just take one sub over to my amp guys shop. testing with a multimeter seemed to point to the caps being bad so he clipped them out of the signal, tested them and they seemed to be fine, we hooked the sub up to a little 20w amp he had laying around the shop and the speaker seemed to work as it should at full range without the caps in line and with shunted highs with the caps in line. I'm going to bring the whole setup, satellite speakers, other sub, and the amp we used to test with along with the speaker wire we used. another thing is the crossover in the sub looks different than the schematic for the O2, the only thing we could find inside of the subwoofer was the 12mH coil in series with two 100uf caps and a 2.2uf cap, I'm guessing we must have a different model speaker.
 
Hmm, that is interesting. I can't comment on the model, I'm not that familiar.

Maybe JimPA has some more knowledge?

I hope you find the solution. I still expect it to be well worth the effort!

Best of luck!

Steve
 
Kdj432 said:
So, after a couple of times going over to my friends with a mulitmeter and giving the readings to my amp guy I decided to just take one sub over to my amp guys shop. testing with a multimeter seemed to point to the caps being bad so he clipped them out of the signal, tested them and they seemed to be fine, we hooked the sub up to a little 20w amp he had laying around the shop and the speaker seemed to work as it should at full range without the caps in line and with shunted highs with the caps in line. I'm going to bring the whole setup, satellite speakers, other sub, and the amp we used to test with along with the speaker wire we used. another thing is the crossover in the sub looks different than the schematic for the O2, the only thing we could find inside of the subwoofer was the 12mH coil in series with two 100uf caps and a 2.2uf cap, I'm guessing we must have a different model speaker.
Click to expand...

From your description the caps are wired in parallel of the subwoofer and there is no Zobel?
If this is the case you have the series crossover circuit and not the parallel.
The two 100 mfd. caps are probably electrolytic and the 2.2 mfd cap is probably a poly or mylar bypass cap.


Most people are not use to seeing a series crossover circuit.
Compare the layout of the parallel to the series.

Fried parallel.jpg

DSC_0052.JPG
 
Last edited:
Maybe I can do a better job of explaining the wiring.
The satellite negative is connected to the subwoofer positive after the current has passed through the 12mh inductor.
The 200mfd caps are wired parallel of the subwoofer like a Zobel is wired in a parallel crossover.
 
JimPA said:
Maybe I can do a better job of explaining the wiring.
The satellite negative is connected to the subwoofer positive after the current has passed through the 12mh inductor.
The 200mfd caps are wired parallel of the subwoofer like a Zobel is wired in a parallel crossover.
Click to expand...
yes, the Series diagram seems to be the closest but what is that 10uf mylar that the diagram shows in line with the subwoofer?
 
Kdj432 said:
yes, the Series diagram seems to be the closest but what is that 10uf mylar that the diagram shows in line with the subwoofer?
Click to expand...

Someone installed the 10mfd as a bypass cap.
It's probably larger than the 100mfd caps.
 
Ok, so after bringing the speakers to my amp guy (Jim Hill of VVT amps Waldorf MD) we determined it was a faulty inductor, Jim replaced those this week and I delivered the speakers to my buddy's house last night. I don't claim to have heard many hi end speakers but I've gone through a fair share of consumer grade speakers through the years, these speakers have the best bass response I've ever heard, and the C model satellites are super detailed, the first album we put on was Peter Gabriels So and at first listen it sounded like a really good club PA system but at a reasonable volume, we listened to some Charlie Byrd and the nuance in the guitar strings made the music sound really alive, I can tell these speakers are going to change the way my friend listens to music, we listed to records for about 4 hours and I'm looking forward to enjoying many more. Here's the best my phone can do as far as representing the sound of these speakers, please forgive the sideways video.
 
Kdj432 said:
Ok, so after bringing the speakers to my amp guy (Jim Hill of VVT amps Waldorf MD) we determined it was a faulty inductor, Jim replaced those this week and I delivered the speakers to my buddy's house last night. I don't claim to have heard many hi end speakers but I've gone through a fair share of consumer grade speakers through the years, these speakers have the best bass response I've ever heard, and the C model satellites are super detailed, the first album we put on was Peter Gabriels So and at first listen it sounded like a really good club PA system but at a reasonable volume, we listened to some Charlie Byrd and the nuance in the guitar strings made the music sound really alive, I can tell these speakers are going to change the way my friend listens to music, we listed to records for about 4 hours and I'm looking forward to enjoying many more. Here's the best my phone can do as far as representing the sound of these speakers, please forgive the sideways video.
Click to expand...

I am glad to hear that you got the speakers working.

Which inductor was faulty the amp or the speakers?

The only place I know that sells the 12mh 14 gauge air core inductors that are used in the satellite subwoofer crossover is Solen.
Also the satellite crossover uses an air core 18 gauge.
Some C3L models used a .5mh and some used .35 mh
Iron core will not give a flat response with a series crossover.
Iron core do not completely discharge like air core inductors.
 
Congrats! And the listening impression doesn't surprise me, as I always thought the satellites were special (all I had heard before) and Bud Fried had bass down pat!

Great choices on the music selection as well!

Hey, how did you end up connecting the speakers to the amps? Just the "Amp In" and the "To Satellites?"
 
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