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Goodwill speakers

Howard's makes a line of furniture products that can really make older finishes look almost new again. Their "Retor-A-Finish" product is what I was referring to. They make multiple types depending on your original type of wood (Oak, cherry, walnut etc). Pick the one that matches and apply following the directions.

I agree about Watco Danish Oil - good stuff. When I sand and refinish a piece, I use it to build the finish. For quick fix, Howard's can work some pretty amazing magic.
 
Great score. Don't stress on re-capping the crossover. ADS used good film caps to begin with, however you will find some electrolytics on the woofer circuit. Those can be replaced when you are ready, but aren't critical to them sounding good. (just my opinion)
 
Just a little more advice on cleaning up the finish--DO NOT use "real" steel wool. Sometimes it leaves "fines" behind and I have seen speakers that have been exposed to salt air or high humidity and end up with little tiny rust bits in the grain. 3M makes "fake" or synthetic steel wool type products that do the same thing, only non-metallic. You can get them in the paint dept. at any Lowe's or Home Depot in different grades/grits, just like steel wool.
 
Oh, man. Lucky dog. (Do check the tweet fuse carefully, one was out on a set of L520s I bought last year.) What a score, even if you have to find that tweet.
 
J English said:
Oh, man. Lucky dog. (Do check the tweet fuse carefully, one was out on a set of L520s I bought last year.) What a score, even if you have to find that tweet.
Click to expand...

Yep, check fuse with an ohm meter not just visually. I Suppose a tweeter can mechanically or electrically die without the fuse being blown but not often. However, it can happen.
 
If water rings are white, swipe lightly with paper towel that is damp, not wet, with alcohol. If it is dark, I'd use oxalic acid to remove darkness, before refinishing. Sanding should be done VERY carefully, no power sander, nothing coarser than 220 grit, though 320 grit is safer. Much prefer an oil varnish mix such as Watco Danish Oil or Minwax Antique Oil than Howards which is largely mineral oil (after the solvents evaporate) and never really cures. If you have to remove a bunch of old finish go with a chemical stripper. It makes it harder to sand through veneer, opens the grain to accept new stain if needed, and also accepts an oil/varmnish finish more evenly than the surface you get by sanding.
 
mech986 said:
Yep, check fuse with an ohm meter not just visually. I Suppose a tweeter can mechanically or electrically die without the fuse being blown but not often. However, it can happen.
Click to expand...
So there is another fuse besides the one on the back of the speaker?
 
jyankeefan2 said:
So there is another fuse besides the one on the back of the speaker?
Click to expand...

No, just to say the only reliable way to test a fuse is to check it's resistance with a multimeter. Fuses sometimes can look visually intact but do not have continuity. Or simply replace the fuse with a new one of the correct value.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ads-l710-tweeter-help.592199/

Same applies to the driver, check the DC resistance of the voice coil. If zero resistance (open), the coil is blown or wire leads have been interrupted.
 
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Also check the internal wiring. They used push on connectors at the driver and at the crossover board. Could've vibrated off.
 
Richard So is a member here and was one of the last employees at ADS when they went out of business. He is the "go to" guy for ADS repair and replacement.

If you go for a replacement be sure to get the same part number as there were subtle differences even though they look the same.
 
Fantastic find for a GW. We never see that kind of gear since GW seems to put everything audio up on 'net. I hope you get them singing to enjoy your tunes.
 
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